Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
1991 560Sec
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Accidentally made two posts so might as well edit this one for another question :)

Hello again,
As is natural with these my rear deck is rusted out. My donor unfortunately is even worse. I'm wondering what my options are besides getting a whole new rear deck. Anyone successfully cut it out and re-welded new metal? Expensive? How far deep do I have to cut out? I've attached a few terrible pictures I'll try to add some more
2625153
2625154
 

·
Premium Member
1999 500SL, 1988 SEC
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Ok, the first thing I would have to ask you is what do you do with the car? If its just for pleasure driving occasionally that is one answer. If you are going pristine original that is another. I am not a body man by any means but have done a number of cars so here is my take. If its just for pleasure I would simply fix what you have with fiberglass reinforced material. Its really not that bad and most is covered by the trim. Of course you need to fix it well enough to hold the gasket but if you are not driving it all year, clean the rust and the fiberglass will last a long time. If you want pristine, I would talk to Brian Clifton in AZ about getting a rust free part.
 

·
Premium Member
1990 SEC
Joined
·
4,149 Posts
That actually doesn't look too bad, but you have to remove the trunk lid to assess the situation.

If it is too far gone, that panel is (or used to be...) available from Mercedes-Benz for about $150 last time I checked.

Of course, it will then have to be welded in and painted so the panel itself is not the biggest expense.
 

·
Registered
1991 560Sec
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I’d be using it as a weekend cruiser that’s about it. I’m more worried about under side and how to properly treat it with por15 if that’s an option. I attached a picture of what it looks like. Do you happen to have a part number or link axelwulff
2625168
 

·
Premium Member
87 Euro500HVSEC. 88 Euro 560HVSEC. 89 Euro 560HVSEL
Joined
·
4,269 Posts
That is not too bad and an easy fix
First you must get in the trunk with a torch or slim LED pencil torch and inspect from underneath to see if the rust has worked its way below the window seal and the trunk rubber seal area as well especially in the corners and along the middle section.
If it is minor there you can scrape it off and treat it with rust converter and seal using a small long paint brush usng POR product

As to the top lip in your pic - hit it with an angle grinder (flap wheel or wire brush ) to remove all rusty bits back to good metal and if not wanting to go the tig welding method to instal fresh metal pieces -
then DIY method - using alloy mesh (buy in small sheets) cut with snips and using two pac metal glue - glue in the pieces requiring larger repairs before covering in re-inforced fiberglass. For smaller repairs just use the fiberglass
Once all set you can then use an angle grinder flap wheel to smooth and blend to get a nice finish before etch priming and painting
This lip is only to locate the glass rubber seal lip to the body
It is certainly a DIY project to tackle if your handy and cheap fix unless you are going to replace the whole panel with a new one from MB if they are still available
 

·
Premium Member
87 Euro500HVSEC. 88 Euro 560HVSEC. 89 Euro 560HVSEL
Joined
·
4,269 Posts
Ok just saw your pic as we posted at the same time
Get a wire brush on a drill (the small brush that has the wire pointing facedown) and remove as much rust as you can/also using hand wire brushes that will get into tight spots and then treat it with rust converter and then POR seal it
 

·
Registered
1991 560Sec
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Understood. I was thinking of getting rid of those splitters in between the circles so I can really hit the rust or you think I can hit it good enough with the given space?
Any suggestion where to get the lip on top, the bottom piece of window rusted out? Just ask a metal fab place?
 

·
SuperModerator
1986/1990 W126
Joined
·
13,797 Posts
Well done for getting in there before it gets any worse. I caught my SE just in time and £150 saw the lip repaired and a welded on small section.

My SEC we are using the part mentioned above but he's having to fab a lot of stuff. I've never seen an SEC as bad as this, but it will look perfect once finished.
 

·
Registered
1991 560sec. 1969 280SL
Joined
·
1,140 Posts
I had the same problem on my sec. Decided I wanted it done professionally and used a body shop I had used before. I bought the rear deck panel from MB dealer, had an auto glass place remove the rear windshield, dropped the car off at b/shop, they charged me $400. Reinstall the windshield. All in all it cost me $1k cash. I felt it was worth it. Did not think it was worth dicking around with for a possible bodge up. The car looks the tits, no leaks and done right. I know the rust has been eradicated as that was the deal. I feel better for it.
 

·
SuperModerator
1986/1990 W126
Joined
·
13,797 Posts
Same. I would recommend anyone to do the same, and on buying any nice example to have the rear window seal renewed as a minimum.
Any rubber in that position will be compromised after 20 or 30 years. I meant to do this on my SE when I got it as it was pristine when I looked up in the holes.
I didn't, and then the lip rusted in the meantime. Only a little so I got lucky but I wish I'd done it before.

The SEC suffers worse because of the screen angle.
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
1989 560SEC, 1989 560SEL, 1995 E420
Joined
·
4,189 Posts
I like to mention this tip every chance I get: If at all possible, remove the standing water that pools in the lower corners of the SEC rear glass. Like after a dewy night, after washing, after a drizzle or rain. I just blow the majority away then use a tissue or rag to blot up the remaining. Just don't let it sit there and evaporate on its own if you have the choice.
 

·
Registered
1990 420 SEC
Joined
·
246 Posts
I was planning to get this done this spring. Started with trying to remove lid seal. Ended up destroying it. Bought the cheapest replacement (URO). It seems to seal except at the rear of the lid. Any ideas is it necessary to have positive seal all around the lid? I will not glue the seal until the rust is fixed.
 

·
Registered
1991 560Sec
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I was planning to get this done this spring. Started with trying to remove lid seal. Ended up destroying it. Bought the cheapest replacement (URO). It seems to seal except at the rear of the lid. Any ideas is it necessary to have positive seal all around the lid? I will not glue the seal until the rust is fixed.
Same, destroyed the seal. While on the topic, suggestions for adhesive remover? 3m adhesive remover comes up a couple times on search. Goo gone is really hit or miss for me.
 

·
Registered
1985 MB 500sel (Euro)
Joined
·
249 Posts
Wow, another project that I can do DIY(see threads on "transforming the engine bay" and "hood pads"). My lucky day. Another example of this forum bringing needed work to my attention. On this one, comparing my rust to Ilyad's, I am just barely in time.

Thanks KRH and all for suggestions and advice. Good thing I understand Australian. At first glance I thought KRH was suggesting we have a bonfire in the trunk :(.
 

·
Premium Member
1989 560 SEC - V-8 Kompressor - 95 E320 Estate
Joined
·
1,942 Posts
Same, destroyed the seal. While on the topic, suggestions for adhesive remover? 3m adhesive remover comes up a couple times on search. Goo gone is really hit or miss for me.
I've used both 3M adhesive removers (liquid in can and aerosol spray) they do exactly as advertised. Spray is new and dissolves all adhesive glues but the can never let me down. It may cost more than similar products but for sure it works. Also note that there is currently a Superglue remover available, I think it's made by Goof-off and can be found at HomeDepot. Always keep a tube of this next to you when getting creative with Superglue as it will dissolve quickly when you accidentally Superglue your fingers together. I know many of you know what I am talking about. Mike
 

·
Registered
1991 560Sec
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Little update on this. Cut it out. Second part underneath looks kinda rough. Wondering is it worth replacing? Since the top lip does most of the work.
2626744
2626745
2626746
 

·
SuperModerator
1986/1990 W126
Joined
·
13,797 Posts
It's for crash integrity. I've seen pictures of these hit from behind at speeds like 60mph and the back window doesn't even crack. So you'll be the best judge, if it's for enough to be OK with.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top