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1981 240D - 4spd manual, crank windows, more than 400K miles and one squashed driver's seat!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wondering if anyone has used Royal Purple or Red Line in their motors or tranny? Suppose to increase efficiency and decrease gear noise, but I want to make sure it's not more hype than fact...
 

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I run Redline in my diff's. I'm not after more power, just more protection under heavy load/stress and that I do believe it provides.


It's not like you really hear gear noise in these cars and aside from being on a dyno when you swap all your fluids I doubt you'll notice any difference.

Jonathan
 

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E320
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redline motor oil is garbage. the gear fluids are fine, but the oil sacrafices protection to reduce drag and net a few hp. not worth grinding the lobes down on your cams and demolishing your piston rings. mobil1, motul, and lubrimoly are great products from the results i've seen in independant studies.
 

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Well, I know some endurance race teams that have run Redline engine oils w/ good results..as well as guys that use their Diesel engine oils in the work trucks (F550's) hauling serious weight back and forth across the country.

So far so good..one diesel just cracked 800K last we chatted.

I think if you get into the seriously light weight, ie, 5-20 you may have problems in engines such as ours, but we know that weight it too light to begin with.

I would be Really surprised if their oils destroyed engines. If they did Redline would be on the same level as Slick 50, ie, No One would go near them.


While on the topic of eating engines, all the engine off the shelf consumer grade oils have decreased levels of phosphorus and zinc..two additives critical in keeping engine internals (predominately. cams) on older engines happy. I have taken to adding zinc/phosphorus additives to all my and my customers oil changes as this problem has been Well documented as of late.


Jonathan
 

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1981 240D - 4spd manual, crank windows, more than 400K miles and one squashed driver's seat!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
NüR-SPEC said:
redline motor oil is garbage. the gear fluids are fine, but the oil sacrafices protection to reduce drag and net a few hp. not worth grinding the lobes down on your cams and demolishing your piston rings. mobil1, motul, and lubrimoly are great products from the results i've seen in independant studies.
I just visited Diesel Giant and his oil change page shows Amsoil. No-one using the Purple stuff? If you'd normally stick to 3K or even 5k mi. change schedule, seems you'd have to go waaay more to justify the added cost. Unless there's some proof one of the synth oils does something magic, I'll probably just go with the lowest priced 20W50 and regular changes.
 

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hempev said:
I just visited Diesel Giant and his oil change page shows Amsoil. No-one using the Purple stuff? If you'd normally stick to 3K or even 5k mi. change schedule, seems you'd have to go waaay more to justify the added cost. Unless there's some proof one of the synth oils does something magic, I'll probably just go with the lowest priced 20W50 and regular changes.
Depends on your driving style. Do you just drive..no extreme/heavy use? Then yes, your basic regular 'ol diesel oil will do (15/40 rotella or delo is good). However, if you drive your cars HARD &/or sit in a lot of stop and go traffic/do mainly city driving then a synthetic offers an added level of protection. They stand up to excess heat far better then your standard dino oils, and their additive package is aimed @ extreme duty applications. I for one run Synthetic in all of my cars that are tight or that get driven Hard. It's an added measure of safety that makes me feel @ ease when I'm asking for 100% of my cars capabilities. I don't get into extended drain intervals, and most will say (and I agree) that I'm throwing away perfectly good oil, but again it buys me piece of mind. DG (Russell, or Diesel Midget as we like to call him over here) knows his diesels well..we see each other every now and again. Jonathan
 

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"500"sel, 560sec
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Jonothan got any names for who does the zinc/phosphorus additives??
 

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what about lucas stabalizer? doesn't that compensate for the lack of zinc/phosphorus in dino? i use mobil1 15-50 full syn with the full syn lucas additive. i use the full bottle of additive then fill the rest with mobil. i sortta think i'm being too paranoid and it's gonna cost me more money than i need to spend. so i recently used dino castrol gtx 20-50 and regular lucas. i've just heard of horror of redline stories from honda guys and whatnot. i know racecars use redline cause the engines get rebulit after every race.
 

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1991 560SEL, 1984 300DT
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Blackhawk helicopters live on synthetic

I've been hooked on synthetics for over twelve years. One day I visited the local Air National Guard airbase. the mechanic took me for a guided tour of his pride and joy, a Blackhawk helicopter. He informed that each turbine (there are two) costs $750,000 and that they NEVER change the synthetic oil! In addition there is a metal indicator for the helicopter's transmission that indicates the amount of metal particles in the tranny. If it ever exceeds a certain level, the pilot MUST bring the aircraft down immediately because the excessive amount of metal can destroy the transmission.

That being said, if the Air National Guard NEVER changes the synthetic oil in their Blackhawk helicopters which cost as much as a Mercedes Benz dealership, I think it fairly easy to acquire extended drain intervals on today's high quality synthetic oils. the key to long drain intervals is FILTRATION FILTRATION FILTRATION. The best filters in my opinion are sold by Amsoil. From the new patented Donelly filters to their famous dual remote bypass oil filtration system, Amsoil leads the pack when it comes to keeping your oil clean. The bypass filtration system they sell filters to one tenth of one micron, which is downright small.

I have a merc 300DT 1984 which uses Amsoil from stem to stern.

As follows:

15W40 Marine Diesel Oil (an old favorite for diesel owners)

Amsoil ATF Synthetic Transmission Fluid (runs the tranny about 15 to 30 degrees cooler than petroleum based tranny fluid)

Amsoil series 2000 Racing Lube in the wheel bearings

Amsoil 750,000 mile over the road diesel use rated (yes, you read that correctly) coolant

Amsoil Series 2000 75W80 Gear Lube in the differential.

This car will most likely outlast me and my grandchildren



The other car is a pristine 1991 Merc 560SEL as follows:

Amsoil European formula 10W40 synthetic motor oil

Amsoil ATF Synthetic Transmission Oil

Amsoil 250,000 mile rated coolant (same coolant different ratings for diesel verses gas)

haven't installed the wheel bearing grease or the gear lube yet

at the next oil change I will switch to Amsoil Series 2000 0W30 racing oil. have read some tests on this oil and it is the ULTIMATE in lubrication. Not cheap, but neither is an engine in a merc 560SEL.

I do use Redline Diesel additive and it seems to work well with the new lower sulphur diesel fuel the EPA has dropped in our lap (15 PPM verses the previous 300 PPM). Amsoil just came out with a combination diesel additive that I will probably switch over to.

BG makes a great injector cleaner, I would consider using that in lieu of the Amsoil injector cleaner.

here's a link for those techies who want to know how Amsoil rated in independent testing against the major oil manufacturers:

Synthetic engine / motor oil comparison - Amsoil beats Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Castrol, Hi-Tec, BP, Torco and Shell on the dynometer.
 

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The additive I am using is from GM, Part # 12345501, GMpartsdirect is where I buy it from:)

Jonathan
 

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and007ca said:
Jonathan,wich oil You recommend for my car??Its time for an oil change!!!Thanks
Andrew,
I would run Mobil 1/Amsoil or Redline 15/50 or 20/50 in your Koenig.

How is she running these days? Was hoping we would get to see you down this way..??

Jonathan
 

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hempev said:
I just visited Diesel Giant and his oil change page shows Amsoil. No-one using the Purple stuff? If you'd normally stick to 3K or even 5k mi. change schedule, seems you'd have to go waaay more to justify the added cost. Unless there's some proof one of the synth oils does something magic, I'll probably just go with the lowest priced 20W50 and regular changes.
I've used Royal Purple for a number of years. My long term experience has been in my pickup truck (280k miles) and the wife's Lumina van (140k miles) with no issues (barely broken in, by MB standards). I've put it in my 190E for the last 60k. I change the filter at 4k, oil at 8k.

My brother has a Chevy pickup with over 400k that he uses Mobil 1, oil and filter change at 10k.

I would endorse RP as good stuff, but you wouldn't hear me say it has an advantage over other synthetics.
 

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1986 560SEC TT KS,1988 300CE,1990 560SEC 2nd GEN.KS.1990 560SEL AMG,1985 W126 [parts]
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Yes You will..see us one day..King running wery good with the cold air we having these days..got new 8.5mm hige temp. plug wiers,made a big diffrent..The plugs burn so clean i have never seen any of mine like that,so im happy aboute that.Also did a leakdown test and was exellent [not 0 but 2-3] so the guy who did it was wery imprest.The weekend i will turn the puppy up to 0.7 bar but i need to change the oil,get a new exaust system and do somthing with the transmisson..Allways something..but i love my cars..
 

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1990 560 sel
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I'm with you, Husk man...I've used Amsoil in my work truck (95 dodge cummins diesel) stem to stern too, with the BIG bypass filter as well. I just drove her to San Diego today, I'm at 484,500 miles and running perfect. Original u joints!
I'm using lubrimoly (german product) full synth in my 560 sel, but when not I'll go Amsoil.
 
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