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The Intro:
Hello all, its time to start my revival thread as I need some help. For payment I have pictures!? I am a hobby mechanic, I buy old unloved cars and fix them for fun. Yep, I said fun.

Bought this for $500 about a month ago. PO had NO clue what a car was, he thought it had 6 cylinders.. luckily he didn't have it long. Not sure about any previous history, zero records.
From the ad:"Clean inside, out. 160,000 miles. Runs great! Looking to trade for a truck, or suv. 35 mpg on highway. 27 city"
...Yeah.

The GOOD:
160k miles
Suspension is quiet, good? Maybe, will be determined at a later date. Its good though. I think.
Zero rust
Nice wheels, not sure what they are from though.
Looks completely original/oem parts everywhere except radio head-unit and wheels.

Immediate problems:
Goes into limp mode as soon as it gets warm (60*-80*C)
Original wiring harness, upper and lower
Original Throttle Actuator
P/S makes some terrible noises
Nothing from the blower motor for the HVAC, and the 30A strip fuse box is badly burned.(WTF happened there I wonder? I think the PO 'hardwired' it and it melted)
Check/replace timing chain guides
I need to source some metal oiler tubes. (Hint Hint ;)
Valve Cover gaskets

Less immediate problems:
Oil was last changed..? no idea. probably a good idea to change it.
Aftermarket radio, non-working condition. not a priority.
2 bald tires (what did the PO while it Did run i wonder?)
Interior is half shot, seats are TOAST and headliner is fallen. The rest seems serviceable, just a couple cracks in the wood trim around the window switches.
Paint is partially baked off on the drivers doors right under the windows and the trunk has no paint left on the top.
Lens cover broken on passenger fog light. Going to attempt to replace with 2 updated all-glass units.
No lights behind climate control or window switches?


Things I have done or am on top of:
Replace upper harness with delphi unit dated 02
New bosch disty caps and rotors
Cleaned mouse nest out from behind computer compartment.
Replaced all fuses with new copper fuses, this fixed the radio!
Getting ready to replace the ETA
Cleaned interior

:confused:QUESTIONS I HAVE:

I need some part numbers for the common breakage items when removing the throttle body, including that big breather hose that is hard as iron now. Also the smaller diameter hoses on top of the motor, that little wye fitting ect.

Total investment thus far: $1100

Pictures in next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Some pictures. Before any cleaning. My cat found the mouse nest for me haha.
 

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...the rubber boot thats rock hard is the maf connector. for the hose coming from the depths of hell that connect to the throttle body, buy those rubber pieces at the dealer. i paid 68 bucks for the whole connection all the way to the passenger side valve cover. be sure to get a new gasket for the throttle body to manifold space. i set the throttle body in place then slipped the gasket under it.

eta: when you go to remove the original throttle body after you lift it up you have to turn it, i forget which direction at the moment but its in the fsm and well as kind of self explanatory.
 

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Thanks McMurphy! I was hoping for more in the lines of part numbers though, by now I have seen pictures or videos of most things that break, just no numbers so that i can order them.
 

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...i know i ordered the rubber boot for the maf without a part number from autohaus. you want the same part number thats on the throttle body tag/label to find an ebay replacement and like i said i was at the dealer when i got the hose so i didnt need or get the part number. somebody here has the part number for the hoses im pretty sure.

i just waited a week for the dealer to get me the wrong screw so i dont know why theyre so so big on vin numbers and part numbers and then order the wrong thing.
 

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Hard to go wrong for $600. Those wheels are Mille Miglia wheels. I have the same ones on my wagon.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1456619622.164878.jpg
 

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" 3 Wheels to Avoid At All Costs

1. Mille Miglia

Mille Miglia is mercifully out of business now, but many used sets do remain floating dangerously about. Avoid these – at the shop we call them “Milli Vanillias” because they're only pretending to be wheels. Mille Miglias are hands-down the softest alloy wheels I've ever seen, and they bend if you look at them wrong."


Cool. I hope this is wrong?
 

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Thanks McMurphy! I was hoping for more in the lines of part numbers though, by now I have seen pictures or videos of most things that break, just no numbers so that i can order them.
Congrats on the 400E!

Come, come, I get you your numbers! :beerchugr:

First, the rubber boot between the ETA and MAF is p/n 1191410167, you may want a new metal loom tie for that as well, p/n 0069970890.

The gasket between the intake and ETA is 1191411280 and I'd order two as they're a known to be fragile.

The hoses are found in the EPC - Engine Group 14 (Intake & Exhaust Manifolds), Subgroup 030 (Intake Manifold). (thanks to @gsxr on the 500E forums for that quick tip)

I used my 92 400E VIN to pull the following p/n's.

These are the main breather hoses you will defiantly need to replace:

1190947182 x 1
1190945582 x 1
1190944482 x 1

and their corresponding clips and connections:

1179970190 x 1
1020940212 x 2

I typically order from genuine mercedes parts dot com. Prices are competitive for genuine MB bits.

There are a bunch of other rubber breather hoses that snake around the intake manifold and grown very brittle with age but if you're careful you shouldn't disturb them during ETA removal.
 

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I have the same ones on my wagon.
First thing I thought of when I saw the photos, the gatorblue wheels!

I hadn't heard about the Mille Miglia wheels being so awful, my father used to run an Alfa Guilietta in local SCCA races. For a short time with MM branded wheels but they would lose a significant amount of air after just a couple laps.
 

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First thing I thought of when I saw the photos, the gatorblue wheels!

I hadn't heard about the Mille Miglia wheels being so awful, my father used to run an Alfa Guilietta in local SCCA races. For a short time with MM branded wheels but they would lose a significant amount of air after just a couple laps.
They have been perfect for me over 3 years and the three different cars that I have used them on. I know the PO of my old 87 (Hanno) had them for a long time on that car and as far as i know they were just fine.
 

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Well let hope its just a rumor then. I like the wheels and I'm not planning on tracking the car so I think I'll be okay.
 

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any updates ? lets keep this thread going
 

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Not a whole lot to update just yet. New hoses and gaskets are ordered as of yesterday morning, still waiting for them to ship. Waiting until next week to order a 'new' throttle body and hopefully install it all in 2 weeks. No leads on oil tubes yet. I would very much appreciate a part number for the timing chain guides.
 

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Update: My blower motor works! I only had to do this..... It works fine, i get heat, and i think AC even, hard to tell as its 50* out.

I finally got an edit button!!! Oh and does anyone know where that burned cable routes so i can maybe replace it?
 

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Update: My blower motor works! I only had to do this..... It works fine, i get heat, and i think AC even, hard to tell as its 50* out.

I finally got an edit button!!! Oh and does anyone know where that burned cable routes so i can maybe replace it?
...i cant exactly tell what you did there but congrats on your progress. youll be so happy with a new harness and throttle body etc etc. it takes a little effort and $ but once youre set up right you should be good to go a long ways
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well you can see that i have a breaker and 2 wires, one coming from the strip fuse next to the brake booster, which has constant power, and into the breaker. Then it goes from there to the remaining unburned post for the blower motor, which is the side that feeds the blower. Not sure what happened in the past but the right side of the strip fuse holder (which is the side that supply's power) is burned/melted away and the original harness no longer provides power.

So with my breaker wired in i now have fully functioning climate control.
 
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