Why not just tie them open??

 

What is the theory behind their operation? So mine must have closed for the last couple of months, but why do they need to close?

 

same thing happened to me, i was one of the first to discover that problem a couple years ago. i pulled all my flaps to the full open position, and then tied them open in that position with some wire. works great ever since.

 

The flaps close one of dual inlets at lower rpm to provide better air swirl for better combustion. They open at WOT for high air flow.
As other members reported - the difference is to small to notice, but I have big trust in MB engineers and don't think they design pretty complicated system for nothing.

 

but I have big trust in MB engineers and don't think they design pretty complicated system for nothing.

save the world - part of emissions treatment (when EGR feeds the sh*t in intake manifold, air need to be mixed better in order to get decent combustion)...

 

Hmmm... is it just my impression that the icon on top of the quotes imitates my avatar?

 

Testing testing....

Edit: it does!!!!!

 

Well it didnt take long for the swirl flap arm to pop off the servo again, 4 days, it was great while it lasted. It doesnt look like the arm is available separately without purchasing the whole intake manifold. This is an Achilles heel, if it wears out every 150k miles. Costing 1000 USD doing it yourself. Buying a used manifold can only be considered worn out and it would be throwing money away.

Safety wiring it open? I don’t care for the idea, but it will be the cheapest route.

Has anyone disconnected the arm from the manifold side? How does that side end up staying connected?

 

How hard is it to move the manifold side lever?? If it's harder or gritty, you might have to take the manifold off and clean it if you don't want to have to wire it open. Probably should do that anyways.

Some places like X8R (I think) make a replacement kit.

 

There is absolutely no resistance in moving the swirl flaps, the shit design is that the socket at the servo side faces upward, and is susceptable to collecting grit. Grit will grind out the socket, its just nylon, and the ball is of steel. The ball on the servo faces downward, fitting into the socket on the arm. The ball should have been mounted on the top side of the servo lever whereas the socket would then be facing downward, not collecting grit and if the socket were to wear it would be impossible for the arm to fall free as it now can, because it would be on top of the ball and not underneath. Yea shit design.

X8R, no wrong engine.

 

swirl flaps fault usually is not causing rough start / cut off... check your EGR too, perhaps something in injectors...

Ball joint in loosen because flaps have been jammed and 'weakest' link has been found. Its not poor design, it normally never pop out if system is otherwise ok. OM648 has no spare parts (like OM642 has), but you can even remove flaps (block the actuator holes) without any drastic change in preformance. But you will need to have solid flap motor (M55) connected or then make the shunt that fools car diagnostic to believe motor is ok. If flaps are still connected in main rod (you really don't know) they can be jammed open but again M55 diagnostic is still on.

 

After reattaching the flap arm to the servo, the second time it fell off in 2 days.
There is absolutely no resistance noticed in moving the flaps. The arm connection is poorly designed as I explained in the other comment.

The ball socket is worn out on the arm and allows the arm to fall free with any road shock. Perhaps even when shutting off the engine, the vibration.

I think if the flaps were to be jammed open, the car would not be difficult to start, but again the rod connectting all the flaps together moves freely, and once the arm is reconnected to the servo, the engine power is again like new, owned vehicle since 4000 miles. I have since reconnected the arm twice, after both times the car is easy to start and runs fantastic. I noticed a high rpm 4200 rpm cavatation is also gone, after reconnection.

The arm should have not been designed as a weak link if that is what you infer. A servo motor can provide feedback to the controller that there is increased current due to stuck flaps and throw a code and shut down the servo instead of burning out the servo or popping off the arm. Yea its really a shit design.

Whats really bad is it is actually a dangerous design. while you're at highway cruise speed, if the arm FALLS OFF you wont know it as there wont be a dash warning, you will be going into limp mode very soon, you exit off the highway still unaware as you decelerate, now when you need to clear traffic, suddenly you have no acceleration available, and that will put you at considerable risk.

 

Is it one of those press on ball joints??

 

Yes it is

 

Would it be possible to get new balls and ends from a place that makes push pull cables, linear actuators, etc??

 

The flat rod/bar with the (2) 30° bends is the connecting arm to the servo, the end that attaches to the servo ball is the problem. The ball on the servo is welded in. I just need that little piece of black plastic. Or the whole arm of course.

 

I agree, this is a poorly designed mechanism. I drilled out the ends of both tabs that m55 swivel rod connects to & positioned this turnbuckle in there to replace it. :nerd Eventually, a limp mode code for m55 positioner prompted me to replace intake manifold but this fix worked about 2-3 months before that. I embedded an image into this post but it won't show up for some reason? here is a link to it directly to see what I'm talking about... https://ibb.co/VN80Vjv

 

-Grab that main metal arm that moves all the flaps

-Pull it all the way forward towards the radiator

-Wire it in position to keep it from moving back

-Take a moment to admire your makeshift rigging

-Have a drink to celebrate your ingenuity

-Never worry about it again.