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W123 240D with OM615 200D
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I hope this topic finds you well.

I am having this problem since last night.

I can turn the ignition and all the electrics come to life.

However the engine doesn't rumble to life. (kick over)

Not even a click.

I was observing the glow plug indicator and it just ignites for a second and dies away.

Is this the problem?

Is it a quick DIY?

Trouble is where do i find it?

Please advise.

Warm regards,

Bard
 

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2001 Volvo V40
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2,954 Posts
What year is your engine and car? Can you measure voltage of the battery during glowing and starting attempt? What is the normal voltage of the battery?
 

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W123 240D with OM615 200D
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Discussion Starter #3
What year is your engine and car? Can you measure voltage of the battery during glowing and starting attempt? What is the normal voltage of the battery?
Gosh i dont know... but if it was to be normal what would be the ideal voltage be? Maybe i'll measure it and work on it?
 

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2001 Volvo V40
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Do you use a knob on the dashboard to glow and start? or do you use the key to glow and start?

If the Voltage (after overnight rest) is 12.5 Volts or higher, that is OK, anything lower than 12V is not OK. If the voltage drops considerably during glowing and starting, than it could be the battery.

Is it an automatic?

Glow light going off quickly probably means a bad temperature sensor.

Could also be the starter solenoid or bendix which is stuck. Try hitting the starter motor with a hammer, sometimes that helps (temporarely).
 

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W123 240D with OM615 200D
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Discussion Starter #5
Wow

Do you use a knob on the dashboard to glow and start? or do you use the key to glow and start?

If the Voltage (after overnight rest) is 12.5 Volts or higher, that is OK, anything lower than 12V is not OK. If the voltage drops considerably during glowing and starting, than it could be the battery.

Is it an automatic?

Glow light going off quickly probably means a bad temperature sensor.

Could also be the starter solenoid or bendix which is stuck. Try hitting the starter motor with a hammer, sometimes that helps (temporarely).

Hi Govert,

I use a key to glow and start. Its an 82 model.

I am not sure about the voltage but hammer must work like a charm.

I'd love to give that a go. Can you send me a pic of where should i hit? cant wait.
 

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1984 300D
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5,070 Posts
If you have an Automatic Transmission and when you turn the key to the start position the Starter does not crank at all: On the later models there is a Neutral Saftey Switch that does not allow the car to start in any of the Drive gears. It only allows it to start in park and Neutral.
So the Neutral Safety Switch could be bad and/or the Shifter Bushings could be worn and not allowing the Switch to go into the correct position.
Also the Starter Solenoid or the wires going to it could be no good or the Ignition Switch.

If you have a Manual Transmission it could be your Starter Solenoid or the wires going to it or your Ignition Switch (yes even thout the lights and other stuff work the Ignition part of the switch can be burned up inside).

The way to see if it is the Starter Solenoid is to momentarly apply posative Voltage to the Terminal on the Solenoid where the smallest wire goes. That should cause the Starter Solenoid to activate and your Engine to crank; if cranked long enough your Engine should start.

If you hear the Starter Solenoid activate (a nice thunking sound) and the Starter does not rotate/turn you have some internal problem with the Motor part of the starter (or the starter Cables or Ground are not good).
 

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W123 240D with OM615 200D
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Discussion Starter #7
Relay

Hi 300D,

Thanks for the input.

Mine is a manual and i hope there is no problem with the motor.

I dismantled the glow plug relay thinking it could be shorting.

Should i replace this to begin with? (after all its 30 years old)

And if don't get positive results then go for the starter solenoid?

My thought is that do these relays (black box) get faulty from time to time?
 

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1984 300D
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Unless the Glow Plug relay is sticking and staying on when it is not supposed to and killing your Battery it has no relationship to a your Starter not cranking the Engine.

Remember the Engine not cranking (meaning the Starter Motor is not turning the Engine) is different from the Engine not starting (the Starter is cranking/turning the Engine but the Engine is not igniting the Fuel and turning by itself).

For the Engine not cranking/turning all of the parts of the system need to be checked. All the Cables connecting the Battery (Battery needs to be good also) need to have clean and making good contact. The same with the Ground Cable that connects the Engine to the Body of the Car.
After that the easiest thing to check is the Starter Motor and the Starter Motor Solenoid.
There should be 3 wire terminals on the Starter Solenoid. One connected to the Batter positive terminal and one that has a short Cable or Strap that goes into the Motor.
There should be one that has a much smaller Wire.
As I said previously if you run another wire from the Positive Terminal of the Battery and touch it to the Small Wire Terminal (wear Gloves as the Wire may get hot) the Solenoid should activate and the Starter should start cranking/turning the Engine. If the Engine Starts cranking/turning there is a good chance your Starter Motor is OK.

If nothing happens you have a problem with the Starter Solenoid or the Starter Motor.

If the Starter worked OK with the Wire but still will not work when your turn the Key you have a problem in the wiring from the Battery to the Ignition Switch, the Ignition Switch itself or the wiring going from the Ignition Switch to the Starter Solenoid.
 

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W123 240D with OM615 200D
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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you 300D

Wow!

Explains alot.

I will post results and keep the forum posted.

Least i can do!

Once again, Thank you so much!

Regards,

SK
 
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