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1700L Doka
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Your totally on track-and less expensive too!

I believe Jay C did a Cummins conversion, should not be too hard. Check in with him.
 

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Hey guys I just bought a custom built 5-speed 1987 OM366LA flatbed and was wondering what transmission is usually installed with . I had a shifter rod snap in half and I'm trying to find a replacement just need to know what type of transmission usually goes onto the 366
 

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'91 U1250 '02 U500NA
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If you're asking about Unimogs:
717900, 717901, 718810, 718811
718814, 718815
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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There is no typical transmission behind a 366LA, there are typical transmissions in the different MB platforms.

As Yarr points out, if its a UNIMOG, we have answers. If its not a UNIMOG, maybe? What is your flatbed based on? A 1117?


C.
 

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1981 280GE, 2002 G500, U427/1250, 1972 280SE 4.5, 1965 190Dc
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169 Posts
I guess I'd like to bump up this thread.

I have an OM366A with originally 125hp. A bit on the low side working in the Rockies at 6000 ft elevation.
Ok, some facts first.

2696155


Has 100,000 miles, the hour counter is a bit hard to read, seems still working was at 0787.2 when I got the truck, now at 07920.x. 23h running since I have it is about right.
But 100k miles and 0787 does not add up at all. So I wonder whether I read the hours correct. If I read the counter looking more from the top - then it be 1898 hours. 100,000m/1898h=52mph average ... that would make more sense.
Per EPC, the motor has the piston bottom cooling squirters, the larger oil pump and a UG3/65, double clutch.

So, I am considering adding an intercooler and have the injection pump modified. Moderately, maybe get to 150-180hp. Downside, I already have another radiator - oil cooler for the hydrostat - stacked in front of the coolant one.
That would become a pretty snug fit, likely would need to move the radiator a bit back
2696159




2696160
 

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U1450L DOKA
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It can be difficult to establish an accurate correlation between Engine hours and milage on UNIMOG, especially one that is equipped with the typical 'Communal Equipment Package'. With PTO's and Hydraulics, it is very possible that the truck remained stationary doing work, while the engine ran all day.

I know of a Communal U1250 that had low miles, but high engine hours. The reverse situation (High Miles, Low hours ) might indicate a rebuilt or replaced engine, but the high hours / low milage combo was a little puzzling.

Further research with the agency that was selling the UNIMOG revealed that it was assigned to the water department and had a PTO driven water pump more or less permanently installed on the front bumper. This UNIMOG was often used to pump flood water back into the river during that season, and so it would on occasion sit in one place all day, or for a number of days, with the engine racking up hours while the UNIMOG didn't move an inch.

If the history of the truck is accurately known, then you can pretty much make sense of the miles / hours ratio. On my truck, I have a box of what I think is every single Tachograph disc that covers the entire life of my truck in Europe. I can see how little it was used by the Deutsche Bahn, ( and what short, slow trips it made), and I can also track it's life as a pampered, privately-owned UNIMOG in Malaga, Spain. It is tedious to pour through them all, and a magnifying glass is helpful, but I was abled to track where it went, how often, and what the average and top speed achieved on each trip was.

I imagine that such a level of intact documentation is pretty rare.

As far as your hour meter's numbers not registering very well with the window...........Well, it seems that mainly they do line
up pretty well. I have a photo or two of the numbers being out of line, but not to the degree that you show. I have never had one apart, but it may be possible to manually rotate the assembly one or two cogs to get it aligned.
 

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U1450L DOKA
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Some more, with photos of the innards. I would not be surprised if there is a VDO document that addresses getting the numbers aligned with the window.

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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More to the point, considering the HP#’s you are looking for you will not likely need to add an intercooler or even have the IP rebuilt if you are ok doing a bit of work yourself. 150hp can be done all day with your current setup. 180hp may require a bit more work but stil can be done without an intercooler. Get a pyro on it first then go from there. I recommend you put the pyro pre turbo.
 

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1981 280GE, 2002 G500, U427/1250, 1972 280SE 4.5, 1965 190Dc
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The red number at the end is the hour, NOT the decimal hour
interesting. Could be - that would give an average mph of 12. I have the full owner history of the truck. That got me curious now, let's see whether I can get some records
 

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1981 280GE, 2002 G500, U427/1250, 1972 280SE 4.5, 1965 190Dc
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More to the point, considering the HP#’s you are looking for you will not likely need to add an intercooler or even have the IP rebuilt if you are ok doing a bit of work yourself. 150hp can be done all day with your current setup. 180hp may require a bit more work but stil can be done without an intercooler. Get a pyro on it first then go from there. I recommend you put the pyro pre turbo.
Great hint.
Before I do anything, I am going to drop the oilpan, verify it has the squirters ( per EPC, both the squirters and the oil channel plug are valid parts - so I cannot be 100% sure. Also want to get a feeling about bearings
 

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1988 U1300L RW1 Working gears Dual Tanks AC Rigged for Camping Plus: 91 F250 HD 4x4
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Are you familiar with this thread? Michael got pretty good results with a minimum of fuss and expense. My own truck/ OM366A was bench set by an M-B mechanic for nominal 170 hp, basically same as what Michael did. I would not want to have any less power, here in Colorado.


Lee
 

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1981 280GE, 2002 G500, U427/1250, 1972 280SE 4.5, 1965 190Dc
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Are you familiar with this thread? Michael got pretty good results with a minimum of fuss and expense. My own truck/ OM366A was bench set by an M-B mechanic for nominal 170 hp, basically same as what Michael did. I would not want to have any less power, here in Colorado.
I know about the procedure. My concern is that it will require to break the "tamper" seals on the IP. I need an annual smogtest ( Larimer County ... ) they check the tamper bolts as well as the twisted locking wire with the lead seal
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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I know about the procedure. My concern is that it will require to break the "tamper" seals on the IP. I need an annual smogtest ( Larimer County ... ) they check the tamper bolts as well as the twisted locking wire with the lead seal
What? That’s insane and fairly unbelievable.
 

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1981 280GE, 2002 G500, U427/1250, 1972 280SE 4.5, 1965 190Dc
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What? That’s insane and fairly unbelievable.
yeah, and 20 miles East of my home is Weld County - agriculture - no smog test. 20 miles West, Estes Park and Rock Mountain National Park - tourist destination - no smog test.
Someone took took a pen and a ruler ..., I happen to be SOL :
Actually to have a gray market vehicle smog tested, first step is to get form DR 2365 "Vehicle Evaluation" completed by CO Department of Revenue. That determines what Emission Control Equipment the vehicle has, has to have and states what test are to be performed.
They were clear what tamper seals they will look for. No test station will perform a smog test on a gray market without that form

Don't we have fun ?

2696521
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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yeah, and 20 miles East of my home is Weld County - agriculture - no smog test. 20 miles West, Estes Park and Rock Mountain National Park - tourist destination - no smog test.
Someone took took a pen and a ruler ..., I happen to be SOL :
Actually to have a gray market vehicle smog tested, first step is to get form DR 2365 "Vehicle Evaluation" completed by CO Department of Revenue. That determines what Emission Control Equipment the vehicle has, has to have and states what test are to be performed.
They were clear what tamper seals they will look for. No test station will perform a smog test on a gray market without that form

Don't we have fun ?

View attachment 2696521
I have a good friend that lives in Berthoud, he is working on getting his 416 legal. Not sure what county he is going through. Think he was going to register it in Vail to make it easy.
 

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1981 280GE, 2002 G500, U427/1250, 1972 280SE 4.5, 1965 190Dc
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I have a good friend that lives in Berthoud, he is working on getting his 416 legal. Not sure what county he is going through. Think he was going to register it in Vail to make it easy.
Berthaud is Larimer County. Same as I.
I'll be happy to help with the CO paperwork .. I've registered my '81 280GE in CO as well :cool: - it's doable. DMV in Estes Park know what they need. Actual registration took less than 1/2h
 

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As far as adding an intercooler, here are some thoughts.

A. Moving the radiator back to buy room might be difficult, as there just isn't much room before it would hit the Power Steering reservoir. That can be moved as well, of course.
B. Moving the radiator to the rear will also reduce the clearance at the turbo, which is where the intercooler ducting is tight to begin with, and that is when the radiator is in the stock location.
C. You'll probably have to ditch the belt drives and go with an electric fan, which if it is a 'Puller, will also eat up space on the backside of the radiator.
D. I think moving the oil cooler for the hydrostat would be easier, either to the passenger side, or back on the frame with a cooling fan.

E. I think that changing the grill out to the UHN, or possibly the UHE might be the best and easiest solution for gaining space up front for adding an intercooler.
The UHN grill provides a little over 4"of additional space up front, over the stock steel SBU grill.

The UHN and the UHE are both 'Raised Cabs' (no more regular / raised cab choices, they are all raised), so the two new grills are deeper vertically , and some trimming of the bottom edge will be necessary (UHN) when fitting to a SBU.

The UHN grill looks pretty normal when trimmed and fitted, while the UHE grill looks a little squeezed, as seen on the Green Military truck. Despite the U4000 stickers on the doors, this truck is a tarted-up regular U1300L, without a raised cab. The Owner has done extensive work to it, and he mounted the UHN grill and then moved onto the UHE grill, so you can get a direct comparison between the two.

The New Grill package properly includes a new hood, but to save money, many guys have just cut the front off of their original hoods and it seems to work OK.

There are Faux UHN grills on the market that mimic the look, but they are 'Flat', and do not increase the area under the hood.

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1986 U1300L; 1976 U900 Cabriolet
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On my insistance Urs of FGS added the Behr intercooler to my U1300L. I'm a firm believer that if MB designed it, it will work so copying them using genuine parts is always my first choice. I insisted on keeping the standard grill......mistake! This required moving the radiator back by about 2" which meant the mechanical fan assembly had to go. I started with a SPAL 16" 24v fan which turned out to be faulty. After much mucking about and nursing the truck back from several trips without the fan running I had it replaced. Still not good enough when the truck is working hard. Long gradients, steep climbs or very soft sand makes the engine work hard and it shows on the temps.
I have the AV fast portals so the engine cruises at 2,000 to 2,200 revs and, given my 7 metric ton weight, is working all of the time. On Krietpiel's research we learnt that the 366A motor has a smaller water pump pulley to make up for the lower rev range. We replaced mine. We also found a donor U1700L radiator and had it recored with a 5 layer top of the line core. That pushed the IC further forward and it only just fits behind the standard grill. Replaced the coolant with G48 coolant at a 1/3 coolant ratio. All of this had an impact, but still not sufficient.
Urs modified a spare radiator shroud to fit two 12" SPAL fans which would double the CFM flow. Krietpiel designed a dual stage system to run at 1/3rd speed at 80° and then full speed at 88° using a standard BMW M14x1.5 dual thermoswitch and stepdown. We didn't go ahead as Krietpiel has started designing a hydraulic fan system to suit my truck. More on that from Krietpiel later.

My advice.........stick to the mechanical fan and buy the bigger grill or go water/air and put the radiator on the other side. For our climate, fitting an intercooler is a very good option. EGT's are lower, power is up, fuel usage down and the engine runs cleaner.

If the hydraulic system works it will be a big win. If not, I'm going to a bigger grill and back to the standard mechanical fan.
 
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