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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I have been moving forward very slowly with installing a 366la (from Neil w/240+Hp).

Alot to figure out, lots to fabricate but I’m nearing completion. It has been taking me lots of time to figure out and perform the smallest tasks, however...some progress is better than none!
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I’m using Bell intercooler cores from on old project, fabbing all tubing and had to move the rad Assy backwards. Left room for a front pto too. Tried to copy factory and maybe improve too.

Next step is figuring out the fan stuff...
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Anyone have any ideas on a reliable yet potentially low(er) cost alternative to the existing factory jack shaft? Pillow blocks on a plate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
I’m almost done....whatever that means. The hardest part of working on a Mog is almost everything you touch, you find that what’s “underneath” needs some maintenance. I’ve found small air leaks, rusting brackets and shields, wire that went to features no longer on used, electrical connectors on their last leg and so on. Add to that I’ve little time and am moving very slow these days.

Adding a non factory 3” thick bar and plate design intercooler is very doable. For me the hardest part was getting the turbo exit angle and getting the tube fab right...the shape and angle needs to allow for a pto. Also the intercooler end tanks and exit tubing was challenging and I still might have to make a modifications get the angles right.

Next challenge was coolant hose routing and tank mount, which I still need to do, due to the dual thermostat.

Modifying the jack shaft ( lengthening and rotating the the tensioning arm blushing sleeve) was straightforward and everything is working great in the cooling area. Buts it’s still cold here so verdict on radiator sizing is better left to July test run up some long grades.

The engine is very strong...and can spin the 395’s easily in the first 4 gears....

Progress photos:

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2619722
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks Yarr!!

Driving impressions;

tl;dr Every Unimog should have at least 240 hp

When I first started driving the 1700 with 168 hp, it moved “ok” on a route from point a to our country home, and required a few gears of downshifting to climb small hills and larger hills were best left to the 4-6th gear range, and acceleration, well, really didn’t exist….and I was fine with that level of performance from a “fast tractor”. All was good, so I thought.

Then came adding the Holset and a 3” exhaust and the power (butt dyno) went to about 200 hp and everything was better, climbing small hills required less downshifting and larger hills was tackled in 7th, if in the right rev range, or sometimes 6th ….above 2200/2500. So all was better, so I thought.

Then came the new OM366LA with north of 240, supposedly closer to 300 hp with giant/thick intercooler and the paradigm shifted; it is a brave new world! The beast can now accelerate; what was once barely noticeable with the 200 hp, now can push you back into the seat a bit, and in lower gears, spin the rear tires. But most importantly, what once required lots of shifting to travel my test road from point a to home can now be done in 8th gear all the way! No shifting….

It has changed the nature of the beast…so although I do not get to go “faster” than 50-55 mph, I get there quicker and stay there with much less shifting. It is a joy to drive…and a different experience all together!

As Ferris noted “It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.” It will change your relationship with your Mog.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Chas,

?

what extra tq/hp does for a Mog is change the character of the beast...from fun but a little bit of a chore going from point a to point b on a road/trail, to “wow, I can cruise at 50 ish and just enjoy driving without strategizing shifting for every upcoming hill (mostly)”. Yea, an overdrive would be nice, but 50-55 is plenty fast for me. I still wonder what’s going to break.....keeping an eye out for a 3/65 ;)

when I upgraded the stock turbo to the holset (complete setup for sale;)), I thought I went to heaven...made a big difference....but not as big of a difference from 200 to more.

the project was fun, and due to some physical ailments, took me 10x longer and although I learned a lot...I owe many thanks to Neil at Merex, Jim Ince, other suppliers and members of the list for photos, and other details....they were incredibly valuable in figuring it all out.

I guess this foolish adventure shows that you can transplant a 240 hp + Om366la into an 84 without raising the cab by using a mix of fabricated and factory parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yes, the pump was modified, new injectors and should be ~tuned for 300 hp. It runs quite well!!

I suppose it’s now a OM366la+

Merex/Neil may still have another in stock....
 

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I have a stock OM366 with turbo already in my 1990 1300. I do not know if it has the oil squirters on the pistons. Did you add them or verify they were in there prior it install? I talked with Neil frm Merex several months back and he stated the stock intercooler is no longer available and unless he gets a damaged engine he is not going to seperate an intercooler from a good engine as there is obviously a demand for the paired set. A&V makes an intercooler upgrade but requires the power bulge hood and figuring out how to get it across the Atlantic. I do have the aluminum welding gear so building a new intercooler to fit is quite intriguing. Various parties appear to offer an injection pump and injector upgrade which is far more practical. Jay Couch was talking about a turbo upgrade with integral wastegate two years ago but I never chased it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
The engine I purchased from Neil was a low use with excellent compression reading OM366LA and the IP tuned to 300 hp. This was originally a 240 hp unit so had the piston cooling and big oil pump, and the additional 60 hp from the ip tweak.

It did not come with an intercooler or related plumbing and I had to fabricate the IC from some old Bell cores I had which are the bar and plate design, better flow (lower pressure drop) than tube and fin but bulkier. My objective was to ensure equal or better performance and that the setup would fit under the stock hood and not require raising the cab. The work was not trivial and I had to modify or make many components....but it can be done. I tied into my original exhaust which is 3" compared to the stock 90mm for a OM366LA. I will fab that sometime and maybe it will free up a few ponies. The calcs say wont matter.

At some point I will make jigs for all the parts and make a few setups for the 366A out there. If you can find the intercooler, they sometimes show up for 1500 to 2500 usd. Then all the other parts will raise it to another 1-2k....by the time I added everything up, it was another $4k delivered.

So I fabbed it all up-I made intercooler in a past life, so not a big deal. If I do it again it’ll be even better....
 

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Thanks for the info, So it comes down to an easy AV bolt on intercooler with an aesthetically challenged power bump, an IP pump and injector rebuild for a considerable but lower increase in HP along with an EGT indicator and a switch to synthetic oil to keep the temps down low to keep the pistons from melting. I already have a fresh in the crate Claas OD to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I guess...the challenge (to me) is keeping it stock looking, but better performing. Really wanted everything to fit under the stock hood.

It can be done!
 

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I guess...the challenge (to me) is keeping it stock looking, but better performing. Really wanted everything to fit under the stock hood.

It can be done!
Would you know, how much torque are you getting with the new setup?
 

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The work was not trivial and I had to modify or make many components....but it can be done.
Hi MMThomas - I bought the standard U1350L IC which I'd like to fit to my U1300L. Within the confines of the bonnet and grill there isn't sufficient space in front of the radiator plus it's too high. I'm not a fan of the bonnet hump or hacking and weakening the grill. It's the only thing between kangaroos and my radiator. Can you elaborate on what you needed to change to fit your IC? I've looked at replacing the fan with an electric fan, but even moving the radiator is a mission. Much appreciated. Craig
 

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Yes, please elaborate how you achieved the magic of fitting in your IC with minimal mods. Curious minds want to know... :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I provided a littles bit of a description above, but the following mods were required:

fab intercooler, which include
-design/Fab end tanks
-design/Fab exits
-design fab mounts
Design/Fab lower turbo to intercooler elbow and routing
Design/Fab upper intercooler to intake elbows and routings
Sort and install a mix of rad and coolant tank hoses
Modify upper cyl head to coolant fitting
Design/Fab coolant tank mount
Revise lower rad mounts
Revise rear rad mount
Design/modify/re engineer cooling fan jack shaft and housing
Reroute heater coolant hoses
Revise fuel filter mount
Revise hood safety latch ( not done yet)
Revise exhaust for ex brake and larger dis exhaust (not done yet)

The intercooler was made from two Bell cores I had as leftovers, and if I spec’s one from the start or bought a closer fitting one, would have saved some time. Probably forgot stuff it’s been so long....

if there was enough interest in this set up, let me know and I could be persuaded to put together some jigs with all planned improvement integrated...
 

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Thank you for the reply. I do want to add that I know the main difference between the size, weight and build quality between a transport truck’s engine and a smaller lighter personal truck engine. But as my 917 will be used as anOverlander truck I do not need the 1 million km rebuild intervals even though it is a plus Also there may not be a huge roadrunner email difference in the rpms, but I do believe a duramax, Cummins or similar may be easier to tune for a little bit higher rpms that again solves the max speed - or am I completely off tracks?
 
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