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Discussion Starter #1
I have one of those OM366OLA's and am considering doing the swap into my 1700. My 352A is running quite strong, but the lure of the project and the extra torque and HP is tugging at my leg...

Is anyone on the same path?
 

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I was on and off it for years.

In the end the cost of the bits to do it, and the comparative gain, plus my like of the older diesels, made a OM352 rebuild the choice for me.

But I did not have an OM366LA sitting in front of me waiting to go in... That would have been tough.

C.
 

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Was the 366 you have originally in a U1300 /U1700 or one of it's variants? Do you have the intercooler and all the associated plumbing for the intercooler and turbo? I'm sure the guys who have done it / looked into it will weigh in once they know these kinds of things. I could be going crazy but I seem to recall someone mentioning that the OM366LA MOGs had a cab lift too.....

Regardless, if it came out of a MOG previously or you have a source for the appropriate mounting equipment I'd be putting it in. While you're at it let me know all the part numbers so I can turn my 366A into an LA :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This 366LA was purchased from Scott at EI and I am waiting for the price for parts to make the install into my 1700. Hope to find others who are in the same process.

Scott??

Thanks!!
 

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You should have a long chat with Stuntmog as his setup is designed around a lot of factory components and he did a lot of homework before spending money.
 

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similar path

I am on a similar path.
i have an engineless 416 doka and an OM366A sitting next to it.
in the next few weeks i will get into the fitting and rerouting of components to make it work. MY OM366A is rated @200hp, but will be getting an HX35 turbo and IC with some turn up of the pump. I will probably start a build thread soon.
I will keep an eye here to to see what you also come up with.
Franco
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know that the exhaust manifold and oil pan are different...other than that, it "appears" most of the other parts should fit and work fine.

My current 352A is running strong, but having a newer engine is just a temptation I can't seem to stop thinking about....the 80 - 100 ft lbs increase in torque running 210 hp at 2600 vs. 170 hp at the same is simply too tempting....
 

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Depending on the OM366(l)(a) varietal that you have, you may also need:

-Oil pump pickup to match the alternate pan
-Clutch housing/clutch/flywheel
-Rear Engine to frame mounts
-Front Engine to frame mount/cradle
-Intake (modified or OEM, but the truck ones usually don't work)
-Water pump and/or water inlet/outlet cast pieces and gaskets.
-Front Pulley/Damper
-Alternator (for voltage compatibility, just listed for others future reference in the thread)

Can't think of any others offhand.

C.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Resurrecting thread!

Any folks make progress on transplanting the EI 366la into a sbu??

I'm due to start!!


Depending on the OM366(l)(a) varietal that you have, you may also need:

-Oil pump pickup to match the alternate pan
-Clutch housing/clutch/flywheel
-Rear Engine to frame mounts
-Front Engine to frame mount/cradle
-Intake (modified or OEM, but the truck ones usually don't work)
-Water pump and/or water inlet/outlet cast pieces and gaskets.
-Front Pulley/Damper
-Alternator (for voltage compatibility, just listed for others future reference in the thread)

Can't think of any others offhand.

C.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Resurrecting thread!!

As noted I bought a gov liq 366a from Scott, and it’s still sitting in the crate....I have to do something or my wife is going to kill me again!

First time cause I bought the engine when I just upgraded the 352a to a holset and now cause there is an expensive tabletop sitting in the garage....!

Scott was going to put together a kit but never got around to it...And I’m not the best with part numbers...I know the general gist, and have questions-what is the exhaust manifold part number? What about clutch and rating? Which water pump? Our suppliers are always willing to help, it parts come fast when part numbers are known 😉

Has anyone done this conversion and if so, is there a parts list? Spring is coming So time to get moving on this project and I need help!

Anyone have the experience and is willing to share?
 

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Some years ago, Dr. Mark Mitchell made a similar swap into his U1300L.

Kai, Roberto and Mark, at least, of the ALTAR Desert group, took part. I think it was on Benzworld, but I'm not positive. I can post photos, but the original thread would be much better, as it would include the commentary as to what they had to do in order to make it work.

They rotated the turbo, modified the oil pan to clear the tie rod, swapped the intake system, and I don't remember what all.

Mark modified a Ford Super Duty intercooler to fit, and he added a Marine style pre-oiler as well. The new engine was a Crated Bus engine from Brazil.

It had the Bus/Truck governor on it, as opposed to the Tractor version. He kept the bus version, and as far as I remember, preferred it to the tractor unit for drivability.

Here are some photos.
 

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You need an OM366a exhaust manifold off a UNIMOG, or a home made version of the same.

C.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OM366LA swap - Update

After years of procrastination I have started the 366 LA swap. However a slight change of tactic and then I’m using a merex (from Neil) purchased 0M 3 66 LA as the engine to be installed, and I’ll save the new engine for something else.

There are quite a few of bits and pieces that were not included with the engine time salvaging from the 350 to or from some spare parts that I have.

The engine had excellent compression and according to the mechanics ran very smoothly with little to no smoke as you expect from euro 2 engine.

I was hoping to be able to buy one off the shelf but used ones are prohibitively expensive and no one makes an naffordable kit for this specific engine transplant, so I’m going to have to fab and intercooler an associate plumbing, and I’ll probably make a jig to be able to fabricate them in the future. Used Bell cores in a past life, so should be doable.

The OM 352 came out easily and I expect the next engine to go in as quickly. I admit it took me many hours of studying, reviewing, prepping and checking on the forum and in the books to enable a painless extraction...but still many hours.

I have some unknowns and need help:

Question: I have for the gurus is the water cooled compressor exits to the rear right side of the block and tees into the block and there is a open neck for a hose to attach and I’m wondering where it goes? Can someone comment? 3rd photo

The last question and photo is also water related...I’m pretty sure two are for the heater just not sure where the other will go?

Cheers
Marc
 

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There is a factory option for an intercooler that will fit without raising the cab. All the pieces are OEM, and it is a bolt up deal, although a little shoehorning is involved.

The U1400 airport tugs (Euro 2) had these installed.

Neil knows about them - he sold the whole deal to Roberto for his Blue DOKA. It was a tight fit.

It was around $3000K at the time, but that was years ago.

It might be harder to round up all the parts nowadays.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you Truktor! Your images and contributions are a lifesaver for many of us.

The price for a complete kit is “still” between 3-4K, pending used vs new...maybe I’m foolish to try building, but hey, what the heck.

I’m considering also lifting the can to ease the process ...but goal is to make it fit with the without lifting.

Any pics of for those water routing questions?

Thanks again!

Cheers
Marc
 

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I don't think building the intercooler system is a bad idea at all. Stacking the Intercooler in front of the radiator is not ideal, as the I/C is pre-warming the air that hits the radiator, as well as restricting the flow. The 'Shark Nose' option was a way to move the I/C to the center of the grill, unblocking the radiator.

The UHN, and now the UHE series also put the I/C in the middle or over to the right, and do not stack it in front of the radiator.

It was a packaging issue, and with the stock grill, especially on a square cab with hydraulics (the tank eats up the right front corner), there were not too many options. The raised cabs were the same - the I/C was in front of the radiator.

It was only after the Sharknose came along, and then the UHN grill, that they had room to move it away from the radiator. With the UHE, the engine isn't under the hood, it is under the cab, so now they have plenty of room to put things where they want them.

Modern domestic Diesel Pick-ups have the same packaging issue - the radiator and the intercooler live stacked on the centerline. It isn't a problem, apparently. I think it is probably because they started with a clean sheet of paper and the systems are designed to function in that configuration, and with a fair amount of headroom built in. The A/C condenser is another layer stacked in there as well.

From what I have read, putting the A/C condenser in front of the radiator is fine (this from Vintage Air's literature), so if you have to stack something, that would be it.

The Intercoolers on the Square cabs came along when the Engines were bumped up to over 200HP, and they made them fit, but they were probably not designed for them (back in the mid 70's) to begin with. When they raised the cab, it was not just to get the I/C in there, the Radiator also grew, about 4"-5" in height, which helped it recover some of the efficiency that was lost when the I/C was stacked in front of it, as well as deal with the increased horsepower.

For the EURO 2, non-raised cabs with the I/C, the Intercooler was part of the solution to get the engines to comply with the Euro 2 emissions standard, rather than for power / performance reasons.

As far as your water fittings, I'll have a look, but I don't remember anything that would clearly answer the question. If I had the problem, I'd circle the fittings and send the photo to MEREX and ask them "OK, so what goes here, here, and here...?"

The Sharknose and the UHN grill will fit the cab, and are available. The MEREX pseudo-UHN grill looks similar to the UHN grill, but it is relatively flat, and does not buy any appreciable room under the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mercedes is an amazing engineering company, and as we all realize each Unimog is a little unique, yet always returnable to some standard state. A custom intercooler may be just that, a little late inquest but...or what I build may just be so similar to existing that it will look stock 😉. But really prefer the rad to focus on water cooling without adding additional heat from an IC...as you note, it’s an improvement.

Neil provided the routing....now I know 😉
 

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The smaller IC is for engines that had pretty low output for a 366LA. I think the OM366LA with that set up maxed out at 136HP. The lifted cabs have bigger rad to compensate for extra power and for extra restriction/thermal load of IC. Also the OM366LA has two thermostats I presume for extra flow. Obviously not having the IC in front of the rad is beneficial but I think the stock set up with bigger rad and intercooler would be pretty good. At 200 -225 HP they don't exactly run really hot.
 
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