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1994 E320
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys im new here so please bear with me....:cool: My oil pressure gauge at startup shoots up to 3 and stays there until i shut off is that good and also whats the average price for the wiring harness for this car..... Its a 94 E320 166066 miles
 

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Oil pressure on start up should be around 3 bar.
When the engine gets to operating temperature the oil pressure should be hovering somewhere around 1.5-2.5 bar at idle. If it's stuck at 3 bar, you might have an issue with the oil pressure switch on the oil filter housing. Cheap part and takes about 20 minutes to replace - if you have big hands. Small hands, it's quicker. :)

As for a wiring harness pricing ranges, I'll have to let others chime in on that. I've seen them from $400 - $800 so the price's are everywhere.
 

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2.3-16 Rotrex Supercharger & Megasquirt EFI
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Oil pressure reading:

Further to the above posting on a bad oil pressure sensor: does the gauge peg at 3bar when you turn on the key or does it peg after starting the engine?

The former indicates a loose wire or bad connection. Sensor resistance decreases as oil pressure rises so a loose/bad connection will peg the gauge upon key-on. If this is the case, the wire connector on the sensor is the usual culprit. Wiggle it a bit with the key on and have someone watch the gauge. If it drops to zero while wiggling you have found the problem. Tighten up the connection a bit with a gentle plier squeeze of the connector.

The latter (OK key-on, but always pegged with engine running) indicates, as mentioned above, a bad sensor.

Regards,
bobf
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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As been said, if it's stays pegged @3 bar (even at idle)-bad sensor, bad wire/connector. 3bar=43.51psi

FWIW, I got .5 bar higher across the board when I switched to Amsoil 10-30wt. That's over 7psi...pretty significant I think, especially at idle. No, I'm not a Amsoil dealer...in fact I hate their distribution process and retail mark-up.

Kevin
 

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Oil pressure on start up should be around 3 bar.
When the engine gets to operating temperature the oil pressure should be hovering somewhere around 1.5-2.5 bar at idle. If it's stuck at 3 bar, you might have an issue with the oil pressure switch on the oil filter housing. Cheap part and takes about 20 minutes to replace - if you have big hands. Small hands, it's quicker. :)

As for a wiring harness pricing ranges, I'll have to let others chime in on that. I've seen them from $400 - $800 so the price's are everywhere.
In addition to that your SPAM removed is probably leaking between the ceramic and the metal that makes up the unit. It might be the same thing that happened to my SLK. Don't ever ignore that, ignoring that leak may cause you a lot. Cheers!
 

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1994 E320
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Discussion Starter #7
thanks so much for the responses guys ill checkout the clip for the sensor tomorrow....:cool:
 

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1988 W124 300E
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my car's oil pressure starts at 3 bar but once the engine is warm, it drops to 1.5 bar. so far so good, but if I was stucked in a traffic jam in summer, the oil pressure will drop to just above 1 bar at idle.. that kinda scares me a lot. (it will return to 3 bar while driving though)
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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my car's oil pressure starts at 3 bar but once the engine is warm, it drops to 1.5 bar. so far so good, but if I was stucked in a traffic jam in summer, the oil pressure will drop to just above 1 bar at idle.. that kinda scares me a lot. (it will return to 3 bar while driving though)
I had the same problem. What I would suggest is finding an oil that bolsters your pressure @idle-most probably a synthetic. Without getting into a dreaded 'which oil is best?' screaming match, Amsoil 10-30wt proved to really 'like' my particular motor. As I previously said, it raised my oil pressure .5bar across the board. I never see idle pressure now anywhere near 1bar. I could put a gauge on it, but just seeing a difference in oils means that the gauge/sending unit are working....how really accurate they are, I haven't a clue.

More to the point, 1 bar is 14.5psi....very reasonable pressure for an engine at idle. Lot's of domestic V-8's rumble down to 10psi at idle and do fine. If you're worried about it, do what I did...experiment with oils.:thumbsup:

Kevin

Kevin
 

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I had the same problem. What I would suggest is finding an oil that bolsters your pressure @idle-most probably a synthetic. Without getting into a dreaded 'which oil is best?' screaming match, Amsoil 10-30wt proved to really 'like' my particular motor. As I previously said, it raised my oil pressure .5bar across the board. I never see idle pressure now anywhere near 1bar. I could put a gauge on it, but just seeing a difference in oils means that the gauge/sending unit are working....how really accurate they are, I haven't a clue.

More to the point, 1 bar is 14.5psi....very reasonable pressure for an engine at idle. Lot's of domestic V-8's rumble down to 10psi at idle and do fine. If you're worried about it, do what I did...experiment with oils.:thumbsup:

Kevin

Kevin
thanks for the advice Kevin.:bowdown:
I'm using elf 15w50 oil at the moment and my mechanic suggest me to change to normal 20w50 normal oil at the next service. because currently my car is also experiencing some kinda "burning engine oil" thing. it probably burns out 1L/1000km, but seems getting better now. I'm going to get my car a step-by step engine rebuild anyway to fix all of these next year.:thumbsup:
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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thanks for the advice Kevin.:bowdown:
I'm using elf 15w50 oil at the moment and my mechanic suggest me to change to normal 20w50 normal oil at the next service. because currently my car is also experiencing some kinda "burning engine oil" thing. it probably burns out 1L/1000km, but seems getting better now. I'm going to get my car a step-by step engine rebuild anyway to fix all of these next year.:thumbsup:
My guess is that your head needs attention...probably at least the valve stems seals are leaking oil. Going to thicker weight oil just hides the problems. When my ex had the car and it got high mileage, I told her to go with 20-50wt....but after I got the car back and did the head, I was upset with how much sludge and varnish was in there......the thicker oil did a poor job in my opinion.

But, I don't know how often she really changed it and how much the car sat around etc. Lots of factors there....especially if a car with thick oil is never fully warmed up, but just shoots to school or work in a rural setting and not much else.

The bottom units of these cars are fairly bulletproof.....I doubt if your rings are shot....my engine is original, except for the head job. Most owners rework the head with great, nearly factory results. I did a leakdown test on my cylinders and it was truly an eye-opener and I mean that in a good way.:thumbsup:

Kevin
 

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1994 E320
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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys i change my ETA and now i see my oil gauge drop to 2.5.I guess with the high rpm before it kept the gauge pegged at 3. Good thing i didn't buy the sensor as yet...Thanks for all the advice
 
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