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While replacing the motor mounts, I managed to damage the oil pan (used it as a jack point). I'd like to replace it. My understandimng is that engine needs to be lifted a bit to gain access to remove the pan. I dont have the engine lift. Any suggestions as to how to lift up the engine ? Your input's much appreciated.
 

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1997 S500V, 1999 S500 grand edition, 2006 s65 amg
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i had my engine lifted there is no other easy way. but if its a gasket that needs to be replaced i would rather change the pan and gasket together(just in case plus it wont be the same work twice)

but i might redo since i bought a used pan with a new gasket and it has a small dent which causes a very light leak. so i would recommend you get a new oem pan with gasket.

gasket and pan together at dealer should be around $150 but they charge alot for labor on it
 

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2003 Mercedes E500
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^^Yup loosen up the 2 bottom motor mount bolts and lift/hoist up the engine to get enough clearance. Unless your car is a V6 but for the V8 this has to be done.
 

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1995 S420
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Real simple--a floor jack and block of wood under the crank pulley--works every time. No need for a cherry picker/slings/etc.
Chuck, going old school, I never liked doing it that way but have done it in the past. Get a good chain hoist, you can either rent one or buy a cheap one and find a good tree to work under. Changed many motors when I was younger that way
 

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nothing broken. finally!
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and another one trashing a car


buy an engine hoist.

now you will spend more on parts fixing what you screwed up than what a hoist/crane will cost you.
 

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Real simple--a floor jack and block of wood under the crank pulley--works every time. No need for a cherry picker/slings/etc.

eh there is just one slight problem with that.. you will likely block the very same bolts that you are lifting the engine in order to access. besides you dont want to trust your hand to a piece of wood that can slide, do you.

your hands will be well wedged between the frame and engine working the bolts out. one slip, and you are off with your hands.


but if you just use the crank to lift the engine and then put something under the mounts, that would work.

2nd slight problem, once you lift it, you will dislocate the hole alignment between the mounts and frame. manually guiding it back into position is cake with a hoist, but if you are jacking from the bottom, you cant really do this due to the way the forces act..
 

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harborfreight :)

under 200$.. it's what the pros use too, but they will never admit to it.

when you have pan off, change your oil level sending unit. change the bolts that hold the pan and use crush washers from ace (new bolts do not come with washers, stupid mercedes cost cutting!)

torque from center out, first gently all the way around and then again center out tighter. keep repeating.


use a plastic scraper to clean the mating surface on the engine. do not use metal.

ps. dont lift engine more than 2.5" in the front. else you risk bending exhaust, tearing cables and stressing trans mount and front flex disc. and remove the fan shroud around cooling fan

pps. to keep mess lower, let oil drain overnight before removing pan.
 

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harborfreight :)

under 200$.. it's what the pros use too, but they will never admit to it.

when you have pan off, change your oil level sending unit. change the bolts that hold the pan and use crush washers from ace (new bolts do not come with washers, stupid mercedes cost cutting!)

torque from center out, first gently all the way around and then again center out tighter. keep repeating.


use a plastic scraper to clean the mating surface on the engine. do not use metal.

ps. dont lift engine more than 2.5" in the front. else you risk bending exhaust, tearing cables and stressing trans mount and front flex disc. and remove the fan shroud around cooling fan

pps. to keep mess lower, let oil drain overnight before removing pan.

If i didn't know better, I would think you were Karl Benz.
 
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of course. its a 40$ part and they go bad with age. well the seals do (but the float can also gum up and not move freely, but rare). you dont want to be taking off the pan again just to change that part alone. that will really be a day ruiner
 

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1985 500 SEC EURO AMG/LORINSER; 1988 560SEL, 1995 S500 Sonderschutz
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Sorry to necro this thread but my S500 is pissing oil. I see lifting the engine is one way, but what about removing the entire subframe? Too much work? That's what seems to be blocking the front bolts.
 

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W140 Mercedes 500 SE, 1992, European, 440.000 km
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Sorry to necro this thread but my S500 is pissing oil. I see lifting the engine is one way, but what about removing the entire subframe? Too much work? That's what seems to be blocking the front bolts.
this is not a good idea at all. once things are clear you need 10 minutes to prepare the car to start removing lower oil pan bolts. preparation is: lifting front end, removing fan shroud, removing 4 bolts of engine supports and lifting the engine near flywheel with wooden block and hydraulic lift. also secure the engine once it is lifted with wooden blocks between engine and subframe in case the engine support fails !!!!!!
 

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1997 S500V, 1999 S500 grand edition, 2006 s65 amg
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I regret not changing that stupid oil level sensor back in 2010. The whole bottom of the block is covered in oil. It isnt pouring oil but slowly leaking and eventually it turns into a mess. If i remember correctly the oil pan isnt too bad on these m119 we had it done in 3 hours i didnt replace the bolts either. Does the mb oil pan require sealant or was it a dry gasket? I mean it held up 7 years so i cant complain lol
 

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W140 Mercedes 500 SE, 1992, European, 440.000 km
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most probably your leak has two sources: electrical connector for oil level sender and oil pan gasket. First is rubber o-ring and second one is a standard gasket (some cheap paper covered with silicone I guess) ca 2 mm thick - no need for wet silicone according to Alldata.diy. I was not able to put it in without damaging it at least on one place. i finished with modification of oil pan and i also made my own gasket, too.
 

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My oil pressure switch was leaking at one point in time but i installed a new one and didnt bother cleaning the engine. Also i have no splash cover under my car from when my w140 was lower.
 

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but we are speaking about oil level sender. not about oil pressure sender.

P.S.: i deleted my above comment but somehow it appeared again. actually you explained why the engine can be oily, it is not necessary to happen due to oil level sender. so a little "excuse me" to you nhztruthless818.
 
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