Only to the pan itself. Take note of how the sealant is applied.Just a silly question: Is the sealing compound applied on both lower & upper oil pan/ or just in one of them I guess the lower oil pan.
A quart for every 4K miles is a lot. Are you sure it's a leak, not oil burn. If it's a leak, your under chassis must be full of oil slick. Fixing the oil pan seal is not difficult, however, it's very messy and time consuming since you have to figure a way to jack the engine about 4" to get clearance to remove the pan. Clean oil sealant and apply new sealant to the pan. While you have the pan out, you might as well replace the oil level sensor, Eventually it will go bad. Common sense is to fix the leak before too late......I've got a small leak from the oil pan seal--maybe a quart every 4000 miles. Is there a chance it will suddenly get worse and be catastrophic? I just don't have much time right now to take care of it.
M112/M113 has no oil pressure sensor or switch. System has no way of knowing if there is oil pressure loss.Well, I found out there is a spot on the left side of the pan meant for prying the pan off. However, it turns out the oil level sensor replacement won't be necessary after all.
From an old post on a different forum, I learned that sometimes the flickering oil level indicator is cured by ensuring that all O-rings on the oil filter rod are replaced in between changes. Sometimes those can dry up, causing inaccurate pressure readings and the oil light to turn on. I always replace the O-rings while changing the filter, but admittedly it's been a while since I've done a change (8k miles, and more than a year).
I was going to change the oil during the repair anyway, so I did that before attempting to remove the pan. After a fresh Mann filter with new O-rings, voila - problem solved. Drove it around a bit and so far the oil level light stays dark.
I'll probably keep the brand new sensor since I didn't pay much for it (genuine OEM, MB) and I figure he original sensor will eventually fail.