Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
1985 Unimog U1300L (diesel)
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well, it is a OM352.
( the Turbo is the OM352A, the inter-cooled Turbo is the OM352LA)
But when ordering parts for it, or to determine the specifications of the engine (like horsepower, etc.), then the 353.961-10
Number comes into play.
Understood, I was confusing the the two numbers thanks for the info.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
13,053 Posts
Well, you have to correlate the dimensions of the proper Type D with what you have.
If you draw out the dimensions of the Type D and your Type A lines up, then yes, you are
OK.
But, if you look at the Original Type A,
Before Frankenstein, you’ll see that L3 is
45 mm, which is the depth of the oil, that is the range between the high and low marks.

The L3 for the correct Type D is 28mm between the High / Low marks.

Your Type A Frankenstein might be the same as the stock Type A dimensionally, or it could be modified.
But that does not matter.

At this point, it is all about how your current dipstick compares to the drawn out dimensions of the correct dipstick.

The overall length might be off -too long or too short.
We KNOW the depth of the oil is off between the high /low marks IF your Type A matches the stock one.
So, I’d mark up your existing dipstick, if necessary, with nicks from a file on the edge, so that the correct oil level is transferred from the paper (Type D) to the dipstick you have.
That way, it will at least show you where you are within the proper 28mm range of High and low.
Then I’d get ahold of Scott at Expedition
Imports and get a proper type D, specific to your engine.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
13,053 Posts
You should strive to keep the oil level at the top mark, but never let it go below the bottom mark. These engines do consume oil, so checking it frequently and having some on board to top it off should be part of the program.
Glad to help.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
13,053 Posts
Also note, when you are
Marking the correct 28mm ‘depth’ of the oil
On your dipstick, you are working UP from the lower end of the L2 dimension.

So, from where the cap of your Type A dipstick seats on the tube (see type A illustration), you will measure 799mm down the shaft, towards the tip of the dipstick.

There, make a file mark - a v notch with a triangular file would work.

Then, measure 28mm back up towards the top of the dipstick and file another notch.
Now, you have made Frankenstein into a Type D, as far as measuring where the oil levels are from the top of the dipstick tube (L2 dimension ).

I think that your Frankenstein has been lengthened (hopefully) to work in this engine.

The original L1 dimension of the Type A is 657 mm, while that overall length of the Type D is 824 mm, quite a bit longer.

In Fact, the L2 of the proper dipstick (Type D) which is the ‘bottom’ of the oil range, is
799mm, which is longer than the whole Type A by 142mm, so if Frankenstein has not been lengthened, it will be flopping in the breeze, above the oil level.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
13,053 Posts
I’m curious to know how you made out ?
Was your Type A long enough to work for your engine?

If not, you can make a temporary dipstick out of welding rod or a strand of copper wire stripped out of some Romex.
Make the shaft to match the Type D specifications, and then bend the top into a hook, so it stops on the top of the tube as the real one would. Make an extra angle on the hook end, or make the hook large enough so that it can’t drop down the tube and have to be fished out.

The Type A can be used to seal the tube up
For driving, and the temporary rod can give you oil level readings, while you source a replacement that is correct.
 

·
Registered
1985 Unimog U1300L (diesel)
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
I have not had a chance to tackle this task today, I will however give it a try tomorrow and report back. I currently don't have a lot of faith in how the previous owner maintained the vehicle. During my search last night I noticed what I think is a missing bolt somewhere between the transmission and engine (as in it was dark and couldn't get enough perspective to see if it was engine or transmission or clutch). I took some pictures and was going to open a new thread on it. I also discovered that the rear right coil spring is broken, so currently I am going to keep it off the road until I can verify that she can be operated safely.

I have a small shopping list for either Expedition Imports or I have found a Canadian place called Unimog Canada out there near Vancouver. I am not sure if Hans at Unimog Canada deals in used parts. One of my big frustrations right now is the vehicle is so dirty and covered in oil that I can't tell if it is an oil leak or just messy as the previous owner appears not to have taking pride in maintaining such a cool vehicle.
 

·
Registered
1985 Unimog U1300L (diesel)
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ok update time, on a previous post it was identified that my dipstick should measure:
Type D,
And
L1 = 824mm
L2 = 799mm
L3 = 28mm

and what I was able to measure was:

L1 = 819mm (clamp closed)
L2 = 794mm
L3 = 28mm

now I made a small error measuring L3 so I eyeballed an adjustment, and I was not sure if I should measure with the dipstick clamp closed or open so I measured with it closed. I have attached some images;
2665141
2665142
2665143
2665144
2665145
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
13,053 Posts
So, that dipstick was altered to match the type D pretty closely.
It’ll work to monitor your oil.
I think I’d re-measure it with the clamp
Open since that is ‘measuring mode’.
With the camp open, it should effectively get a little longer, and the L2 might match up.
 

·
Registered
1985 Unimog U1300L (diesel)
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
So, that dipstick was altered to match the type D pretty closely.
It’ll work to monitor your oil.
I think I’d re-measure it with the clamp
Open since that is ‘measuring mode’.
With the camp open, it should effectively get a little longer, and the L2 might match up.
I was thinking the same thing, once I looked at the image you sent me I realized some of the errors I made. Thanks so much for your help, I feel like I can at least use it for now until I get a replacement.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
13,053 Posts
Well, so much for relying on the Data book...
I thought about that “clamp” style of dipstick, and I realized that my previous UNIMOG (1986 U1250 DOKA ) had that type, although without the riveted piece.

I took a look through the photos in the
‘Open Hood -Turbo’ as well as the ‘Non-Turbo’ Files, and I found the Clamp style much more often than the ring pull style, and these were all OM352 / OM352A engines.

So, despite the Data book’s information, it is clear that the clamp style was, at times, the
Right dipstick for your engine after all .

I think that because your specific engine number is called out in a data book for my the correct years (up to 1986), you can rely on the dipstick numbers discussed above.

Making Any statement about UNIMOGs almost seems to be a set up, as there will be an exception to every rule.



The Data Book is a wealth of information,
But it is not Always right, either.

Some photos showing the clamp style dipsticks, all in Square Cabs.



Black Still life photography Cylinder Nut Engine
Pipe Automotive engine part Nut Engine Mechanical fan
Circle Nut Pipe Fuel line Automotive engine part
Engine Automotive engine part Wire Nut Fuel line
Mesh Circle Plastic Loudspeaker
Blue Product Vehicle door Baggage Circle
Machine Automotive engine part Engine Space Cylinder
Motor vehicle Engine Automotive fuel system Automotive engine part Motorcycle
Pattern Mesh
Engine Automotive engine part Auto part Fuel line Automotive super charger part
 

·
Registered
1700L Doka
Joined
·
305 Posts
On dip sticks without cut marks, I will fill the engine with the required amount of oil, and then file in v notches. Easier for me to read.
 

·
Registered
1976 406 w/ backhoe and dozer blade, a small collection of implements too
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
Sorry for this as its a bit off topic but......

Can I retrofit a dipstick from a 1300 to my 406? I absolutely HATE that I have to pull the doghouse to check the oil. Its just awkward. flipping up the hood is easy. I never knew where they were on 1300's before this thread.

Since I'm whining; the transmission dip stick is even worse, it hits the bottom of the cab and has to be wrestled out. Different topic though.
 

·
Registered
U1450L DOKA
Joined
·
13,053 Posts
Well, NO / YES / PROBABLY/ MAYBE.

So, the OM352 in the square cabs take the
Dipstick draw from a fitting on the front of the pan, a pan that in all likelihood won’t fit the 406.
But, I dug up two photos that show adaptations that take the draw from the
Original 406 set up, at the back of the block,
And with a long tube, move the dipstick port to the front.
The one looks to have used a flexible black tube, which might be the way to go.

If there is no documentation of this in the MB parts library, you might have to come up with your own dipstick to make it fly.

But, just throwing this out there - the Dipstick for the Ford Superduty Automatic trans is a long and flexible, and it holds up.
Starting with something like that and modifying it as necessary could work.
Chevy & Dodge have their versions,
Machine Engine Automotive engine part Cylinder Machine tool
Tablecloth
Art Illustration Painting Visual arts Drawing
Circuit component Circuit prototyping Coquelicot Wire Electronic component
no doubt. Maybe a COE semi would have something that could work.
Pattern Mesh Shadow
Pattern Mesh


I also came across one with the dipstick halfway along the valve cover, and some with the dipstick on the driver’s side.

I apologize for the poor photos, but I’m frozen on the forum as far as my laptop goes, so I’m taking photos of the computer screen.
 

·
Registered
2001 W163 ML270CDI / 2006 W164 ML500 / 1986 U1300L Unimog
Joined
·
194 Posts
Just as a side note I have that type A dipstick on my 86 Om366A. It was part of the fording option. Maybe yours has that option. Have you ever had anyone decipher your VIN for all the options selected at the factory? Also I've always thougt that indent in the dipstick indicates the range it should be in. I always aimed for the top of the indent after the twist. In saying that that rivet setup is weird. If it's changed the length then there would be a issue.
 

·
Registered
85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
Joined
·
5,401 Posts
Oh an apologies, it is

TRUKTOR thanks (tip of the hat to you sir) one last question, pretending for the moment my dipstick is fine, is the oil level to sit anywhere in that indent?
If the dipstick is correct your oil should fall between the bends or jogs in the stick. Best if it’s closer to the top bend Not the lower bend.
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top