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Oil Cooler seals replacement. M113 or M112.

7K views 6 replies 2 participants last post by  Benzyle  
#1 · (Edited)
For years I have known of a small oil leak from the oil cooler ( or more correctly , the oil -coolant heat exchanger ) which is bolted to the oil filter housing.
I have monitored it and wiped the oil away regularly.
After a recent 1000 km drive I found the underside of the cooler was wet with oil so I decided to finally fix it.

Most say to replace the seals you should remove the oil filter housing and replace the large seal under that at the same time , however I think mine is not leaking so I did not remove the oil filter housing.
Neither did I remove the cooler coolant lines.
1. Remove the oil filter cap etc. cover with a clean rag so nothing falls in.
2. Remove the three T30 torx bolts from the air injection pump and push it away as far as possible to enable access to the oil cooler rear lower bolt.
3. Cover the serp belt with plastic and spray brake cleaner between the cooler and the housing to clean the area.
4. Remove the four T30 torx bolts holding the cooler in place.
5. Move the cooler away from the filter housing as much as possible ,,there is just enough room to do the job without disconnecting coolant lines and removing the cooler , remove the old seals and clean the face of the cooler with a clean rag.
6. Place the new seals into their grooves.
7. Refit the cooler into position and tighten the bolts evenly and gradually to 9 Nm with a torque wrench ..or to 10 Nm for the M112.
I applied some medium blue threadlocker.
A T30 torx screwdriver is handy , but using a small ratchet wrench and a T30 bit is the way to do the rear lower bolt and for use with the torque wrench and initial loosening of the bolts.
8 . Refit the air pump unit and the oil filter unit.

Start her up and check for leaks ,,but she should be clean and dry .
Not removing the oil filter housing , and the cooler from the coolant lines makes this job easier and faster.

If you wish to do the oil filter housing seal at the same time , it will allow better cleaning of the parts , you do need a 46mm socket to undo the nut at the bottom of the oil filter housing , the seal or gasket , and you need to torque the nut up to 70 Nm.
 
#2 ·
Thanks for that, I now know the torque for the big nut. Due to time constraints I couldn't wait a couple of weeks to get a kit posted from FCP (no aftermarket suppliers here) so I went to the localish MB dealer. $6.85 for the filter body seal, very reasonable, $48.50 for the larger cooler seal, not so reasonable and $46.75 for the iddy biddy small one, ouch! Also add $18 each for the O rings on the top and bottom radiator hoses (fitting new radiator). Owning a Mercedes in Australia ain't cheap. Get these jobs done then its into the body shop for an all new MB original front bumper courtesy of my insurance company and a stupid sharp driveway entrance I hadn't been too before. Now its get changed into working clothes and pull the filter/cooler apart. Rather busy at the moment as another biggish job involves a complete removal and service overhaul of the rear suspension on my Yamaha FJR 1300. Another company that charges over the top parts prices and purposely designs in time consuming awkward access to drive owners to the dealers. I shall not be beaten!!
 
#4 ·
That's how I look at it. I don't know they were the cause of the leak but as I had easy access it seemed a shame not to do them as I understand they are a common leak point on these engines. Glad I did, the seals were flat and almost rock hard. If they weren't leaking now they certainly would have done. Easy job and yes unclamping the air pump was just one clamp bolt and allowed much better access to the cooler bolts. Tomorrow I fit the new radiator. Taking the opportunity to polish the headlights, they look great. Just using a foam polisher in a battery drill with paint cut and polish paste. Any bad marks I just hit with a fine wet & dry paper first. These fine scratches then polish out really quickly. Got a shock when I saw the price of MB new headlights. The one big job I can't decide whether to tackle or not is the dreaded under dash clicking due to a broken actuator arm on the air vent motor. Is it worth the hassle? Anyone found a way to simply stop it clicking?
 
#5 ·
Good work , yes the seals I removed were noticeably harder than the new ones , not surprising they were leaking.

Finish off the headlights with regular car polish and then wax for the best result. I like Meguires Carnauba Gold class wax.

The clicking stepper motor problem all depends which one it is..
Mine was the one which switches air to the carbon filter , I found if I leave the carbon filter selected all the time , it never clicks.
I removed the filters because I never drive in traffic or tunnels so it actually functions as per normal.
You may find a similar solution , but you lose functionality.
 
#6 ·
How did you identify which motor was clicking? I have a feeling I was told by the previous owner it was the one controlling air to the footwell. Probably more important in a cold climate where you want heating. Not a problem in Queensland. Cold at night but still run air con during the day. Might be a job I do when nothing goes wrong for a while ha ha.
 
#7 ·
It was a few years ago , but I think part was just by listening for where it came from in the dash , and then later it was just a random thing when switching AC on or off , and then the recirculation mode would come on automatically and then I noticed the clicking ended.
The 'correct' way is to scan with SDS.
There are threads on here somewhere with diagrams of the AC system and all the stepper motor's locations and functions.