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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I do want to check that out. I need to drive car over to hydraulic shop. They mostly do heavy equipment. Overkill for these small hoses!

Because these are metric fittings and tubing , it may not be that easy. For example, will they swage new hose onto the existing metal ends? The tubing seems an odd size - about 11.5mm OD. Their swaging equipment might not suit this. Perhaps they would they have to cut the existing ferrule ends off and weld new on?

The oil system is really a low pressure system. <100psig? Hose clamps might do, but it is critical that the hoses don't come off!

Have to compare with new OE hoses. C$312 incl taxes & shipping here. Maybe less from SLS in Germany (awaiting quotation)
 

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1983 380 SL
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3,032 Posts
I do want to check that out. I need to drive car over to hydraulic shop. They mostly do heavy equipment. Overkill for these small hoses!

Because these are metric fittings and tubing , it may not be that easy. For example, will they swage new hose onto the existing metal ends? The tubing seems an odd size - about 11.5mm OD. Their swaging equipment might not suit this. Perhaps they would they have to cut the existing ferrule ends off and weld new on?

The oil system is really a low pressure system. <100psig? Hose clamps might do, but it is critical that the hoses don't come off!

Have to compare with new OE hoses. C$312 incl taxes & shipping here. Maybe less from SLS in Germany (awaiting quotation)
My loader is Canadian with all metric fittings, my local hydraulic shop has no problem working with metric fittings.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,459 Posts
I took car to local hydraulic/pneumatic shop. Good guys. They said that it may be possible to swage over the old MB metal hose barb fitting, but likely not, because those could have been deformed in the swaging process. They also might not match the available swage ferrules and hoses. They felt they would probably have to silver solder new ends on the MB fittings.

Rough estimate was $125 per hose. So $250. Not firm and not much less than buying new OE hoses. Shop guy didn't envy me getting that back union out!

So that option is out! Now trying to see if SLS in Germany will ship by a less expensive method than UPS Express (50Euro). Otherwise will buy from Canadian shop.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,459 Posts
Well asked for lower costs method, but SLS say they only ship by UPS. Price in Germany is OK at about 46 Euro each, but UPS at $50 Euro plus duty and clearing charges on arrival, we are still about same or higher as doing the repair. Or if still available buying the last two in NA!

If Speedmeister is still around or if others have removed that back nut, interested in advice because I will have to do that job before long. Probably at next oil change.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,459 Posts
Was looking at making a 22mm flare out of a box end 22mm wrench (done that for a 24mm for the 300D).

Happened to see that a O2 sensor uses a 7/8" or 22mm socket. But don't know if I could get that in there. Probably not?

If dipstick tube was not there, it would help. can that easily be removed without damaging it?



2639547
 

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'72 450SL, 107.044-12-000422
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262 Posts
I’ve not done mine but just took a look.

I’m not sure the O2 socket would even fit because it looks like it’s too close to the filter housing. But the filter housing looks fairly easy to get out, I think even from the top. Anyone here ever done that?


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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,459 Posts
I have been in there looking again. I think that removing the filter flange and housing is the best bet. Then a 22mm/7/8" flare or the O2 sensor socket should do it. Probably need a new gasket for the flange (1161840380).

With your car being early like mine, you too would need the early hoses. 1161870782 and 1161870882. During my search, I came across a source called mynewbenzparts that had those two hoses for US$167.34. I have to pay a bit more than that in Canada, but freight is much lower. It didn't seem like having new rubber swaged on was going to save much.
 

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'72 450SL, 107.044-12-000422
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262 Posts
Any idea how the dashpot/damper functions? And if there is anything inside prone to failure? Just wondering if that’s worth replacing “while we’re in there”.


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1973 450 sl
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85 Posts
Hello, I am redoing my cooling system and while I am at it, it looks like I should go ahead and replace the oil cooler hoses.

I am completely stumped on how I would remove the lower hose. There is no space for
a wrench or crows foot back there. I don't want to remove anything I don't have to.

I also couldn't find anything helpful in the shop manual. Any tips?

My car is a 1972 350 SL. (purchased brand new by my father :grin)
Hello, I am redoing my cooling system and while I am at it, it looks like I should go ahead and replace the oil cooler hoses.

I am completely stumped on how I would remove the lower hose. There is no space for
a wrench or crows foot back there. I don't want to remove anything I don't have to.

I also couldn't find anything helpful in the shop manual. Any tips?

My car is a 1972 350 SL. (purchased brand new by my father :grin)
When I replaced mine, I removed the Alternator. Lots of room then. Standard wrenches did the job. But its tight. Also disconnect the battery. I replaced the diaphragm on the unit while it was out. The new one was $17.00 at Mercedes. Its called a damper.
 

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'72 450SL, 107.044-12-000422
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262 Posts
Thanks. Definitely alternator out. Did you also remove the oil filter housing? Able to get everything from the top?


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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,459 Posts
The dashpot appears to have a diaphragm inside. It is available as a replacement. (1161870392 - $14-$21). We have a similar device on our fuel system return but that is sealed. They are usually there to eliminate pressure fluctuations from a positive displacement pump. (in this case, the oil pump). I have read of people having external leaks from the dashpot. If the diaphragm was leaking internally, maybe it then has a drain to outside and that is what people see?

Can't do any harm to replace it while in there, I guess. But also not so hard to do later.

BTW, the complete dashpot is NLA but some seem to have stock - Costs close to $200!
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,459 Posts
Thanks. Definitely alternator out. Did you also remove the oil filter housing? Able to get everything from the top?
Except for that one rear nut, does the alternator have to come out? It is likely more work to remove and replace the alternator than the filter housing. (although at least on top and less messy!)

The lower line's hose union nut should be easy enough with alternator in place? I am assuming I would leave dashpot for another day (but would buy the diaphragm). I would have to go under car to drain oil (I would suck most of it out first!). Once the housing is removed to change the filter, it can't be that much extra work to remove the upper flange? If that provides access to that upper hose union nut, then that may be the easiest way?

Just getting ready to order parts and want to make sure I have what is needed. So far, 2 oil lines, filter housing flange gasket, diaphragm for dashpot.

Another concern, is the cooler itself. The aluminum nozzles often strip when lines are removed. Some owners give up then and just install a bypass (later NA cars don't have oil coolers). Need to use penetrant, heat etc, but galling can still happen. On my 300D, I am likely going to cut off the aluminum nozzles and drill and tap for steel adapters. They are a different size, but for our 107, they are probably same size as the adapters that screw into the dashpot. Won't do this if threads are good though.
Would end up with something like this:
2639654
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,459 Posts
Did a trial run today. Top union on cooler loosened OK, but I could not get lower to loosen (without breaking something!) Probably need some heat and penetrant. Maybe better to remove cooler first. In meantime, I could use top line as a bypass. It actually seems in OK condition, maybe I could do that and be done with this, at least for now!
 

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'72 450SL, 107.044-12-000422
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Mine will be a winter job. So alternator comes out, mainly because I want to give that whole area a detailing but will also probably help with access. Good idea about the trial run. I may have a go at my cooler connectors as well.

BTW, thanks for the part number list. The research is always my least favorite part of the job.


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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,459 Posts
My 300D needs several jobs and I need to do some rust touch up on it and the W210. In meantime, I might bypass and remove the cooler. Then if need be, replace the nozzles. Then later put in new lines.
 
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