Getting ready to perform my first oil change on the 300D turbo. However, I've noticed that the filter housing bolts are very tough to get loosened. Is this normal? If anybody has a good website regarding oil changes on 300's...please let me know. Are there any tricks or secrets regarding the filter? How about the rubber gasket. I think that there is also a copper type of washer that came with the filter... is this part of the oil change? I f anyone has tips for me, it would be much appreciated.
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I’m also trying to get some clear information about this as well for my ’81 300 D. The screws on each side of the oil filter canister can be difficult to remove. I used a ratchet with a u joint to apply even torque to the screws, as I do not want to strip them. Be careful to not overfill the crankcase, like I did. All of the oil does not come out; add about six quarts first and warm the engine. Check the oil level and add if needed. Pack some old shop towels around the top of the old filter canister to cover the engine, wires, hoses, etc. and put a drain pan on top the air cleaner housing, when you pull that oil filter element out it’s going to be a mess, dripping lots of hot oil everywhere.
It is possible one washer is used to replace the old washer on the oil drain plug. The other is for canisters with a center mount screw, like the one on my 500 SEL. I assume these filter elements have multiple applications and come with the washers accordingly. It is possible, therefore, that these washers are not needed for an oil change on the OM617.XXX. Confirmation of this would be appreciated.
I’m also trying to get some clear information about this as well for my ’81 300 D. The screws on each side of the oil filter canister can be difficult to remove. I used a ratchet with a u joint to apply even torque to the screws, as I do not want to strip them. Be careful to not overfill the crankcase, like I did. All of the oil does not come out; add about six quarts first and warm the engine. Check the oil level and add if needed. Pack some old shop towels around the top of the old filter canister to cover the engine, wires, hoses, etc. and put a drain pan on top the air cleaner housing, when you pull that oil filter element out it’s going to be a mess, dripping lots of hot oil everywhere.
It is possible one washer is used to replace the old washer on the oil drain plug. The other is for canisters with a center mount screw, like the one on my 500 SEL. I assume these filter elements have multiple applications and come with the washers accordingly. It is possible, therefore, that these washers are not needed for an oil change on the OM617.XXX. Confirmation of this would be appreciated.
Hi. The first thing is to make sure that you have a good oil filter and the correct oil....
Hi. The first thing is to make sure that you have a good oil filter and the correct oil. I recommend one of the German filters like Mann, Hengst or something along those lines. These engines perform well on 15w-40 diesel engine oil. I would stay away from 10w-40 or the 20w-50 grade oils because they generally don't have the correct additives for diesel engine service. That combined with the fact that the 20w-50 is too heavy of an oil and robs the engine of needed power. The heavier the oil the hotter the engine runs because of the additional friction. At any rate...15w-40 seems to be what most diesel engine makers prefer and it works well in these MB engines too. You'll need 2 gallons for a complete oil and filter change.
The first thing to do is to warm the engine up and remove the dipstick and the fill cap on the camshaft cover and then loosen the drain plug on the oil pan. Next you need to remove the two nuts on the oil filter housing lid and lift it up to break the vacuum and let all of the oil drain out of the housing. After the filter housing lid cools a bit you can then fully remove it and the old filter. You may want to have some rags handy to catch any dripping oil. Wipe the inside of the housing clean and then install the new filter. Replace the o-ring on the housing lid ( be sure and wipe some fresh oil on the o-ring before installing around the lid) and reinstall it. It is not necessary to tighten the lid too tight. Just snug it up real good with a socket wrench. Next is to install the drain plug and use a new crush washer that was included with the filter. Be sure that you use the copper washer and not the steel washer( it is not needed for these cars). Again, do not overtighten, the crush ring will make a good seal if you've used a new one and snug it up nice and tight with a 13mm wrench. Now simply pour in the 2 gallons of oil, start the engine to check for leaks and if there are none that is it. Good luck. Oh yes... I would steer clear of synthetics in these cars unless you have a freshly rebuilt engine with no leaks. I know this from experience, trust me.
Hi. The first thing is to make sure that you have a good oil filter and the correct oil. I recommend one of the German filters like Mann, Hengst or something along those lines. These engines perform well on 15w-40 diesel engine oil. I would stay away from 10w-40 or the 20w-50 grade oils because they generally don't have the correct additives for diesel engine service. That combined with the fact that the 20w-50 is too heavy of an oil and robs the engine of needed power. The heavier the oil the hotter the engine runs because of the additional friction. At any rate...15w-40 seems to be what most diesel engine makers prefer and it works well in these MB engines too. You'll need 2 gallons for a complete oil and filter change.
The first thing to do is to warm the engine up and remove the dipstick and the fill cap on the camshaft cover and then loosen the drain plug on the oil pan. Next you need to remove the two nuts on the oil filter housing lid and lift it up to break the vacuum and let all of the oil drain out of the housing. After the filter housing lid cools a bit you can then fully remove it and the old filter. You may want to have some rags handy to catch any dripping oil. Wipe the inside of the housing clean and then install the new filter. Replace the o-ring on the housing lid ( be sure and wipe some fresh oil on the o-ring before installing around the lid) and reinstall it. It is not necessary to tighten the lid too tight. Just snug it up real good with a socket wrench. Next is to install the drain plug and use a new crush washer that was included with the filter. Be sure that you use the copper washer and not the steel washer( it is not needed for these cars). Again, do not overtighten, the crush ring will make a good seal if you've used a new one and snug it up nice and tight with a 13mm wrench. Now simply pour in the 2 gallons of oil, start the engine to check for leaks and if there are none that is it. Good luck. Oh yes... I would steer clear of synthetics in these cars unless you have a freshly rebuilt engine with no leaks. I know this from experience, trust me.
Re: Hi. The first thing is to make sure that you have a good oil filter and the correct oil.
Thanks for the tips guys!
Hi. The first thing is to make sure that you have a good oil filter and the correct oil. I recommend one of the German filters like Mann, Hengst or something along those lines. These engines perform well on 15w-40 diesel engine oil. I would stay away from 10w-40 or the 20w-50 grade oils because they generally don't have the correct additives for diesel engine service. That combined with the fact that the 20w-50 is too heavy of an oil and robs the engine of needed power. The heavier the oil the hotter the engine runs because of the additional friction. At any rate...15w-40 seems to be what most diesel engine makers prefer and it works well in these MB engines too. You'll need 2 gallons for a complete oil and filter change.
The first thing to do is to warm the engine up and remove the dipstick and the fill cap on the camshaft cover and then loosen the drain plug on the oil pan. Next you need to remove the two nuts on the oil filter housing lid and lift it up to break the vacuum and let all of the oil drain out of the housing. After the filter housing lid cools a bit you can then fully remove it and the old filter. You may want to have some rags handy to catch any dripping oil. Wipe the inside of the housing clean and then install the new filter. Replace the o-ring on the housing lid ( be sure and wipe some fresh oil on the o-ring before installing around the lid) and reinstall it. It is not necessary to tighten the lid too tight. Just snug it up real good with a socket wrench. Next is to install the drain plug and use a new crush washer that was included with the filter. Be sure that you use the copper washer and not the steel washer( it is not needed for these cars). Again, do not overtighten, the crush ring will make a good seal if you've used a new one and snug it up nice and tight with a 13mm wrench. Now simply pour in the 2 gallons of oil, start the engine to check for leaks and if there are none that is it. Good luck. Oh yes... I would steer clear of synthetics in these cars unless you have a freshly rebuilt engine with no leaks. I know this from experience, trust me.
Thanks for the tips guys!
Hi. The first thing is to make sure that you have a good oil filter and the correct oil. I recommend one of the German filters like Mann, Hengst or something along those lines. These engines perform well on 15w-40 diesel engine oil. I would stay away from 10w-40 or the 20w-50 grade oils because they generally don't have the correct additives for diesel engine service. That combined with the fact that the 20w-50 is too heavy of an oil and robs the engine of needed power. The heavier the oil the hotter the engine runs because of the additional friction. At any rate...15w-40 seems to be what most diesel engine makers prefer and it works well in these MB engines too. You'll need 2 gallons for a complete oil and filter change.
The first thing to do is to warm the engine up and remove the dipstick and the fill cap on the camshaft cover and then loosen the drain plug on the oil pan. Next you need to remove the two nuts on the oil filter housing lid and lift it up to break the vacuum and let all of the oil drain out of the housing. After the filter housing lid cools a bit you can then fully remove it and the old filter. You may want to have some rags handy to catch any dripping oil. Wipe the inside of the housing clean and then install the new filter. Replace the o-ring on the housing lid ( be sure and wipe some fresh oil on the o-ring before installing around the lid) and reinstall it. It is not necessary to tighten the lid too tight. Just snug it up real good with a socket wrench. Next is to install the drain plug and use a new crush washer that was included with the filter. Be sure that you use the copper washer and not the steel washer( it is not needed for these cars). Again, do not overtighten, the crush ring will make a good seal if you've used a new one and snug it up nice and tight with a 13mm wrench. Now simply pour in the 2 gallons of oil, start the engine to check for leaks and if there are none that is it. Good luck. Oh yes... I would steer clear of synthetics in these cars unless you have a freshly rebuilt engine with no leaks. I know this from experience, trust me.
There also two very small o-rings on the shaft that goes through the filter, around 25 cen...
There also two very small o-rings on the shaft that goes through the filter, around 25 cents each, the existing ones will be brittle as hard plastic. You have to sometimes chip them off.
John Gregg
There also two very small o-rings on the shaft that goes through the filter, around 25 cents each, the existing ones will be brittle as hard plastic. You have to sometimes chip them off.
John Gregg
Re: Hi. The first thing is to make sure that you have a good oil filter and the correct oil.
-What do you recommend as a "good" oil filter?
-Would you recommend using 15w-40 Mobile Delvac in an '82 240D?
Just bought this beauty yesterday and the previous owner used Shell Rotella 20w-50 oil for about a year.
Thanks!
d2e
Two questions for ya Sean...
-What do you recommend as a "good" oil filter?
-Would you recommend using 15w-40 Mobile Delvac in an '82 240D?
Just bought this beauty yesterday and the previous owner used Shell Rotella 20w-50 oil for about a year.
Thanks!
d2e
May favorite filter is Hengst, Mann OK too but avoid
Fram at all costs. Rotella is likely...
May favorite filter is Hengst, Mann OK too but avoid
Fram at all costs. Rotella is likely 15-40. I use Mobil 1 15-50 diesel rated in some and Mobil 1300
15-40 Dino in others.
Delvac is the ultimate though and not on many shelfs to buy. I know Delvac synthetic lasts longer between changes but am a fanatic and change Mobil 1300 15-40 at 6 months or 3K, whichever is first, and Mobil 1-15-50 at 5K or one year whichever is first.
Many people can quote valid tests showing Mobil 1 15-50,going much longer and staying in spec and Delvac lasting a biblical time span. THey are correct but it makes me tense and upset to let oil go very long anyway.
Watch the level carefully the first few thousand miles until the use level is known. SOme diesels that have been sitting will start of as oil sucking pigs until broken in again.
John Gregg
Fram at all costs. Rotella is likely...
May favorite filter is Hengst, Mann OK too but avoid
Fram at all costs. Rotella is likely 15-40. I use Mobil 1 15-50 diesel rated in some and Mobil 1300
15-40 Dino in others.
Delvac is the ultimate though and not on many shelfs to buy. I know Delvac synthetic lasts longer between changes but am a fanatic and change Mobil 1300 15-40 at 6 months or 3K, whichever is first, and Mobil 1-15-50 at 5K or one year whichever is first.
Many people can quote valid tests showing Mobil 1 15-50,going much longer and staying in spec and Delvac lasting a biblical time span. THey are correct but it makes me tense and upset to let oil go very long anyway.
Watch the level carefully the first few thousand miles until the use level is known. SOme diesels that have been sitting will start of as oil sucking pigs until broken in again.
John Gregg
Cool! Thanks for the advice dfw. Where has everyone who use Mobil oil products found...
Cool! Thanks for the advice dfw.
Where has everyone who use Mobil oil products found the best supply of it and best prices (Sam's Club, Auto store, Internet sites, etc.)?
Oh, and where do you buy your Hengst filters from?
Cool! Thanks for the advice dfw.
Where has everyone who use Mobil oil products found the best supply of it and best prices (Sam's Club, Auto store, Internet sites, etc.)?
Oh, and where do you buy your Hengst filters from?
Hi, if you go to this link, http://www.oem-mercedes-benz-parts.com/?source=googlepthey...
Hi, if you go to this link, http://www.oem-mercedes-benz-parts.com/?source=googlep
they carry an excellent selection of genuine German made parts. A good oil filter would be one from an OE supplier, such as Mann or Hengst. So far as oil goes, I personally prefer Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 dino oil. I get my Mobil from wal mart in the 1 gallon size for roughly $6.00. I use synthetics in my other cars but not in this older model diesel. I tried it once and it drank the stuff like crazy and I noticed a few leaks. Switched back to regular 15W-40 mineral oil and things cleared up nicely. I'll stay with dino in this particular car.
PS - One more thing that I forgot to mention in the procedure on the oil change is loosening the bottom hose on the oil cooler and letting the oil drain out of there as well. This is optional but I always do it just to be as thorough as I can. Probably being a little anal but oh well, I always get about 3/4 or a quart out of it when I do it so that is a significant enough amount to warrant going through the hassle, which is not much.
Hi, if you go to this link, http://www.oem-mercedes-benz-parts.com/?source=googlep
they carry an excellent selection of genuine German made parts. A good oil filter would be one from an OE supplier, such as Mann or Hengst. So far as oil goes, I personally prefer Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 dino oil. I get my Mobil from wal mart in the 1 gallon size for roughly $6.00. I use synthetics in my other cars but not in this older model diesel. I tried it once and it drank the stuff like crazy and I noticed a few leaks. Switched back to regular 15W-40 mineral oil and things cleared up nicely. I'll stay with dino in this particular car.
PS - One more thing that I forgot to mention in the procedure on the oil change is loosening the bottom hose on the oil cooler and letting the oil drain out of there as well. This is optional but I always do it just to be as thorough as I can. Probably being a little anal but oh well, I always get about 3/4 or a quart out of it when I do it so that is a significant enough amount to warrant going through the hassle, which is not much.
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