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In defence of that "Chinese" filter, it does not look like it collapsed. It just looks damaged/mangled. Looking into the wide open pleat you see a straight line at the bottom. If collapsed it would not be straight.....

I'd look into if Mobil has the extended life version, denoted by a part # ending in "A". If one wanted to try with that I wouldn't be worried because they are spec'd for 20k miles with the Annual Protection oil. (Just wonder if they have the appropriate weight and 229.5 approval.)
 

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It definitely collapsed, if you looked into the center it was evident it imploded.
The supporting plastic cage was cracked just under the point where the filter media was most collapsed.

But it collapsed from implosion (suction of oil pump), not external crushing.
 

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My experience with the cheap filter I pulled was that unlike the proper Mann fleece filters these have zero support and they are literally paper thin, so with any amount of pressure they just fold in due to the poor quality. I can't see it would be too difficult that towards the end of the filters life it just collapses from the oil and pressure.

Another reason everyone should change their own oil because they are rampantly used at cheap oil change stations. Engines today are robust enough to handle it, but just because you can Doesn't mean you should.
 

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Here are pics of a M103 Mann filter I purchased earlier this year, so it should be indicative of the current quality. Says "Made In Germany" and doesn't feel cheap in my hands, but interested if anything can be gathered from the photos.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

FYI, those are three different pic links. Unfortunately there doesn't seem a way to keep Imgur from having its way with them.
 

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I believe the subject at hand is dealing with "cartridge" filters and not screw on canister types like the M103 filter shown.
 

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I think the subject at hand is a little broader than that, but that the cartridge filter has been the main item of discussion.

The current quality of Mann filters has been called into question, and I'm interested in a more experienced opinion than my own.
 

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On the oil, are you running Delo SDE? Seems like it is getting harder to find LE as it is being phased out. Thx
Thanks for bringing this to my attention so I won't be shockpissed at the store. I have not done a oil change since this switch-over started...Only putting maybe 100mi a year on the car right now.

So...use the new crap or switch to Rotella or Delvac?

Oddly, Delo still has it on their website with no mention of discontinuing...

http://www.deloperformance.com/en-us/products/Delo400LESAE15W-40.html
 

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Thanks for bringing this to my attention so I won't be shockpissed at the store. I have not done a oil change since this switch-over started...Only putting maybe 100mi a year on the car right now.

So...use the new crap or switch to Rotella or Delvac?

Oddly, Delo still has it on their website with no mention of discontinuing...

Delo 400 LE SAE 15W-40 Heavy Duty Motor Oil
You are right about no official word on discontinuing. When I talked to the counter guy at my regular Napa, he mentioned that LE is getting harder to source and they are making shelf space for the new formula. Also, Costco is no longer carrying the old one. I am stocking up on the LE to get me through couple of years. Not messing with new oils at this time yet.
 

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Another place you might check for old stock is Tractor Supply Co.

Probably easier to find the less commonly bought 2.5 gallon and the 5 gallon bucket.
 

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I'm going back to conventional 15W-40 next OCI. My M104.992 engine is not liking the synthetic Rotela 5W-40 it has now. I'm getting some lifter noise during cold starts which it didn't have before with the Chevron Delo.


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I'm going back to conventional 15W-40 next OCI. My M104.992 engine is not liking the synthetic Rotela 5W-40 it has now. I'm getting some lifter noise during cold starts which it didn't have before with the Chevron Delo.


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It's that 5W at start up, way too thin. Being in Hawaii where it never freezes you can use 20W-50.

20W-50 was ran in mine for years when it was in south Texas, I dropped it down to 15W-40 being in north Texas (seen 11 degree winters up here).

Direct from the owners manual:

 

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It's that 5W at start up, way too thin. Being in Hawaii where it never freezes you can use 20W-50.



20W-50 was ran in mine for years when it was in south Texas, I dropped it down to 15W-40 being in north Texas (seen 11 degree winters up here).



Direct from the owners manual:





Good point, 20W-50 was the oil grade the dealer used in the first 5 years the original owner had it serviced. I don't know what was used afterwards but the valvetrain looks clean and varnish-free when I changed the VC gasket last month.



They still have Castrol 20W-50 conventional at Walmart. How many miles would you go with it?


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Heh, it was Castrol 20W50 that was used in mine too.

I change my oil every 3000 miles on all my vehicles. I use only conventional oil. Delo 15W-40 in the Merc and Probe and Castrol 5W30 in the Explorer. But since it never freezes in Hawaii you're fine with 20W50.
 

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I just put Valvoline HM 15W40 Heavy Duty syn-blend in my S320 with M104 and the engine is very quite at cold/hot starts.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Heavy-Duty-with-Max-Life/49660457


I actually had dino Chevron Delo 15W-40 in it prior to switching to synth Rotela 5W-40. It didn't have that ticking sound in the valvetrain on cold starts. I would've actually chosen M1 or Castrol 0W-40 because that's what I used with my 2014 VW GLI and to keep my choices simple. I had used 5W-40 to prep it for 0W-40. But I traded that GLI recently so I don't have any use for that oil anymore.

I'm going to try 20W-50 for next OCI just to keep it consistent with what it got when it was new. The coldest it gets here is 55 F. The hottest would be low 90's, plus we get crawling traffic at times.


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