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I alway change my own oil. I bought a topsider and have used it quite a bit the last couple of years. I just changed the oil and filter in the ML and refilled with 7 US qts. Drove around so the engine heated to operating temp, parked on level ground, cut engine off and waited 5 minutes. Checked the oil level via dipstick and it showed to be only about .5 quarts low from the MAX mark. What gives? I thought the MB preferred method for changing oil was to extract via the top but it seems there must be old oil in there as I only added 7 US quarts?
 

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The only reason it is their preferred method is it saves them time setting the truck up on the lift, being that they have so many oil changes to do in a day. The old method is still the best.............remove the drain plug.
 

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I always change my oil when the oil is very warm. It makes it easier to drain. PS I have changed my oil every 5,000 miles over the last 100,000 miles and I don't even know where the drain plug is. The topsider method is much easier and cleaner even though there may be a few drops of oil in the pan left over when I drain it from the top.
 

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You will get many opinions on each persons preferred method of changing the oil. I use a MityVac 7201 and would not change my oil any other way. My opinion is that the suction method is the best for changing the oil and will remove as much or more oil than the bottom drain method. I also feel that it removes more deposits from the bottom of the pan. When I suction my oil and change the filter it takes just about 8.5 qts to fill to the top of the dip stick Max/Min markings. This is true for both my 98ML320 and 05ML500. I also get max oil removal from my 109E. After many arguments over the best method of draining the ML's oil someone on this forum years ago used a MityVac7201 suction method to drain the oil then removed the drain plug and No More oil came out.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You will get many opinions on each persons preferred method of changing the oil. I use a MityVac 7201 and would not change my oil any other way. My opinion is that the suction method is the best for changing the oil and will remove as much or more oil than the bottom drain method. I also feel that it removes more deposits from the bottom of the pan. When I suction my oil and change the filter it takes just about 8.5 qts to fill to the top of the dip stick Max/Min markings. This is true for both my 98ML320 and 05ML500. I also get max oil removal from my 109E. After many arguments over the best method of draining the ML's oil someone on this forum years ago used a MityVac7201 suction method to drain the oil then removed the drain plug and No More oil came out.
Mike
I use the same model in fact. I'm wondering why it would only take 7.5 quarts upon refilling it. Strange.....
 

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One qt difference is a lot. Try suctioning your oil with the passenger side (dipsitck side) of the vehicle slightly lower than the drivers side. Measure your final oil level on a level surface, which you said you are doing. I also change my oil with the oil very warm but not at full hot operating temperature. I use a hose that just fits snuggly into the flared end of the dipstick tube to suck out the majority of the oil. I then use one of the small diameter tubes that came with the MityVac and carefully insert it all the way to the bottom of the dipstick tube to get the last of the oil but this only gets a few ounces of oil and is probably not needed but I do it anyway. The Mercedes dipstick tubes are designed to drain all the oil as is.
Mike
 

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Should be 8.5 US qts with filter change...

My oil changes run exact on the money 8.5 US qts with filter change, done "bottom drain" method... but I replace with the OE fleece filter, paper oil fliter might require a bit less, my conjecture.
 

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You will get many opinions on each persons preferred method of changing the oil. I use a MityVac 7201 and would not change my oil any other way. My opinion is that the suction method is the best for changing the oil and will remove as much or more oil than the bottom drain method. I also feel that it removes more deposits from the bottom of the pan. When I suction my oil and change the filter it takes just about 8.5 qts to fill to the top of the dip stick Max/Min markings. This is true for both my 98ML320 and 05ML500. I also get max oil removal from my 109E. After many arguments over the best method of draining the ML's oil someone on this forum years ago used a MityVac7201 suction method to drain the oil then removed the drain plug and No More oil came out.
Mike
Mike, I cannot understand how you can be so emphatic about the MityVac's ability to pratically walk on water. The MityVac uses suction, it does not vacuum the bottom of the pan. The only way the Vac can get every bit of fluid from the bottom of the pan is if the tube was situated EXACTLY at the point of where the drain plug is.

When you use a Vac the oil remains stagnant in the pan and has no sweeping effect of the bottom of the pan, as the drain plug method does. To prove the point, fill a soda bottle with water and turn it upside down. Watch the turbulence inside the bottle as the water rushes to make its' exit. Then fill the same bottle with water and empty it with a straw. No turbulence whatsoever. The turbulence has the ability to clean, to a certain degree, the bottom of the pan of deposits, but the straw method cannot because when there is no more liquid the suction stops.
 

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I use the same model in fact. I'm wondering why it would only take 7.5 quarts upon refilling it. Strange.....
It is not strange. It's simply a matter of not being able to remove all 8.5 quarts of oil before you poured the new oil. And there are various possibilities why this happen. (1) the truck was not level when you extract the oil. (2) You did not remove the oil filler cap and loosen (or remove) the oil filter while you are extracting the oil (3) You started extracting immediately after you warmed up the truck.

No need to explain no (1). The theory in No. (2) is that oil remains in the oil gallery because of vacuum so the system needs vent so oil would flow down the oil pan. Try it with a straw, fill it with water and place you finger on one end. The water will not drain unless you remove you finger covering the other end. (3) If you started extracting immediately after you warmed up the truck oil sprayed at the engine's top end as well as oil in the galleries won't flow down the oil pan as quickly as it being sucked by the extractor. This is why I don't believe in warm-up before extracting oil. Also, 0-40 is so thin it drains easily even cold.
 

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Mike, I cannot understand how you can be so emphatic about the MityVac's ability to pratically walk on water. The MityVac uses suction, it does not vacuum the bottom of the pan. The only way the Vac can get every bit of fluid from the bottom of the pan is if the tube was situated EXACTLY at the point of where the drain plug is.

When you use a Vac the oil remains stagnant in the pan and has no sweeping effect of the bottom of the pan, as the drain plug method does. To prove the point, fill a soda bottle with water and turn it upside down. Watch the turbulence inside the bottle as the water rushes to make its' exit. Then fill the same bottle with water and empty it with a straw. No turbulence whatsoever. The turbulence has the ability to clean, to a certain degree, the bottom of the pan of deposits, but the straw method cannot because when there is no more liquid the suction stops.
This string of posts are going the way of all the Oil Change posts since 1999. Your soda bottle analogy is not that accurate. Cut a 1/2“ hole in the side of a soda bottle and fill it ½ way with water and place the bottle on it’s side, with the hole at the bottom, and let the water flow out unrestricted. It will not have any turblance and in fact the water will drain directly from above the hole and not sweep the water from across the bottom until there is almost no water in the bottle and at that point in time there is so little water pressure that the cleaning effect across the bottom is very little. The same thing happens with using the drain plug to drain the oil. Why would the dipstick tube have to be EXACTLY at the point of the drain plug. I don’t see that as the only low point in the system. From what I remember on my 98ML the bottom of the pan is not tapered towards the drain plug. On my 05ML I can’t even see the drain plug due to the panel that would have to be removed to drain the oil. I will admit there are advantages to draining the oil from the plug. You will get oil all over your arm, you will get grubby from crawling around on the ground (most of us do not have a lift), the suspension will get a good lube job, you will have fun for a good amount of time and you will get to feel like a real mechanic. Meanwhile those of us that use the much inferior suction method will not have the opportunity to experience all the above. Having said all that, and that I do respect your opinion, and that you have helped many people on this forum, lets agree to just have our own opinions on two very acceptable methods of changing oil.
Mike
 

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Mike, I cannot understand how you can be so emphatic about the MityVac's ability to pratically walk on water. The MityVac uses suction, it does not vacuum the bottom of the pan. The only way the Vac can get every bit of fluid from the bottom of the pan is if the tube was situated EXACTLY at the point of where the drain plug is.

When you use a Vac the oil remains stagnant in the pan and has no sweeping effect of the bottom of the pan, as the drain plug method does. To prove the point, fill a soda bottle with water and turn it upside down. Watch the turbulence inside the bottle as the water rushes to make its' exit. Then fill the same bottle with water and empty it with a straw. No turbulence whatsoever. The turbulence has the ability to clean, to a certain degree, the bottom of the pan of deposits, but the straw method cannot because when there is no more liquid the suction stops.
There was a member on MBWorld that did both methods of emptying the oil at the same time. Well, he sucked it out, measured it, poured it back in and let it drop to the oil pan, and drained it out. Both methods took out the same amount of oil.
 

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You both are right. Both methods get the end result. That being replacing the oil. Because when it's all said and done, that's all youre doing. There WILL BE sediment to some degree no matter what at the bottom of that pan. Just like there's residual sediment in the heads, galleys, lines, pins, lifters, Oil rings, etc. No amount of suction or sexy drain plug action is gonna get it. That's where that good ole oil filter comes in. Let that pup do the work just like your kidneys do. It's a total win situation for all of us because we all tend to disregard the FSS and change the oil often and replace the filter every time. So no worries, replace the oil any method you want. Karl, Gottlieb and Wilhelm will smile at you from the heavens either way.

Ok to not make myself a complete thread-jack-tard, I do have some valid thread input. I too was not able to pull a full 8 to 8.5 quarts. Then it dawned on me I did not open the oil filter housing. Once I popped that loose I could hear a gentle glug. After hearing that I decided to wait about 20 minutes to let that oil hit the pan. Sure enough, I pulled about another 3/4 of a quart or so. I'm a total Mighty-Vac fan.
 

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I did experiment on our ML55. After sucking via dipstick, I pulled the plug. Got about 3 tablespoons from the plug. Than I put the suction on the top back and was able to gargle out several ounces.
No mater what the method, you will still have some oil left on the bottom of the pan, in the cooling lanes and in the engine cavities.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It is not strange. It's simply a matter of not being able to remove all 8.5 quarts of oil before you poured the new oil. And there are various possibilities why this happen. (1) the truck was not level when you extract the oil. (2) You did not remove the oil filler cap and loosen (or remove) the oil filter while you are extracting the oil (3) You started extracting immediately after you warmed up the truck.

No need to explain no (1). The theory in No. (2) is that oil remains in the oil gallery because of vacuum so the system needs vent so oil would flow down the oil pan. Try it with a straw, fill it with water and place you finger on one end. The water will not drain unless you remove you finger covering the other end. (3) If you started extracting immediately after you warmed up the truck oil sprayed at the engine's top end as well as oil in the galleries won't flow down the oil pan as quickly as it being sucked by the extractor. This is why I don't believe in warm-up before extracting oil. Also, 0-40 is so thin it drains easily even cold.
Truck was level, I did remove the filler cap and loosened the oil filter/housing. I also waited maybe....5 minutes after warming the oil beofre extracting? Maybe I didn't wait long enough?
 
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