Nice job, it looks good. I'm surprised by the amount of oil.
Oil catch tank installation
Due to a poorly functioning oil separator I had been getting oil in the air intake system that fouled my MAF and caused the car to run poorly and stall when the engine was running at heavy load. Regular cleaning of the oil separator and renewal of the hoses didn’t solve the oil problem. At the suggestion of DangTH I installed an Oil Catch Tank. The installation is quite simple and illustrated in the attached image. The tank is a standard 750ml rectangular unit, bought through an EBay supplier, with inflow/outflow pipes, a drain at the base and a fluid level indicator. The tank acts as an additional oil separator which also traps and stores the fluid that the stock oil separator allows through, so it won’t contaminate the air intake. The tank is quite large and room under the SLK hood is limited so I eventually sited it against the radiator fan housing. It is secured temporarily with a 50cm hose clamp. Once I find a smaller tank I will secure it permanently. The tank is connected between the oil separator outflow and air box inflow with 15mm heatproof pressure hosing. This has so far proved impossible to find in Ireland, so I had to use race-grade metal-braided hose from a racing supplier. This is expensive and difficult to work with, I broke a hacksaw blade cutting it, and not very flexible. I will replace it with flexible hose once I find some. For the outflow I reused the stock hose that links the oil separator to the air box and secured it with hose clips.
After two weeks and 500 miles of driving I checked the tank and found it was filled with 70ml of liquid, a lot more than I expected. The liquid is light brownish, smells of oil and combustion but is mostly water. I estimate that it will need to be emptied every 5,000 miles.
After two weeks and 500 miles of driving I checked the tank and found it was filled with 70ml of liquid, a lot more than I expected. The liquid is light brownish, smells of oil and combustion but is mostly water. I estimate that it will need to be emptied every 5,000 miles.
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nice install..... but i think thats a fair bit of blow by oil. looks like there is excessive pressure forcing a fair bit out. the oil/air seperator is made up of 2 parts. there is another one which works at low load (idle and part throttle) which may be clogged or a hose has gone brittle...
i've attached a pic from WIS to show where it is (i highlighted it in red). its a small valve can take it off and inspect it...
now depending how small your hands are you can do this with the manifold still intact but you may have to take it off to get under it.... see pic attached
i've attached a pic from WIS to show where it is (i highlighted it in red). its a small valve can take it off and inspect it...
now depending how small your hands are you can do this with the manifold still intact but you may have to take it off to get under it.... see pic attached
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Thanks Subby that's a useful image. The thing about that fluid is that it has some oil but appears to be mostly water. You're right you would need fingers like ET to get under the manifold
. Is this the ventilation hose check valve (6a), it has two smaller hoses branching out. Are these the restrictors (6)?
. Is this the ventilation hose check valve (6a), it has two smaller hoses branching out. Are these the restrictors (6)?Attachments
Link to an excellent DIY on a UK Forum for overhauling the 'idle to upper part load' part of the PCV system
How to stop MAF oil contamination (CLK 230K - W208) - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums
Below is a pic from the thread showing of one of the brass restrictor nozzles(#6).......the author of this thread found one nozzle 90% blocked and the other 100%
I guess we should all be looking at this......but having to remove the intake manifold makes it higher on the difficulty scale of jobs
Cheers
David
How to stop MAF oil contamination (CLK 230K - W208) - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums
Below is a pic from the thread showing of one of the brass restrictor nozzles(#6).......the author of this thread found one nozzle 90% blocked and the other 100%
I guess we should all be looking at this......but having to remove the intake manifold makes it higher on the difficulty scale of jobs
Cheers
David
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The main cause of trouble is apparently blocked restrictor nozzles........
......pic from UK Forum thread......100% blocked
The only way to check the nozzles properly is to remove the inlet manifold....
I haven't done it.....but the only thing that makes it slightly more difficult than average is making sure you get a good seal with a new gasket when reinstalling the inlet manifold....should all undo easily...way easier than the exhaust manifold etc.(my pet hate)
My suggestion is 'bite the bullet' and do the full overhaul......otherwise you might replace the pipes and still have a non functioning primary PCV system
As I said, we all should be doing it.......post some pics and tips to show us how easy it is :thumbsup:
Cheers
David
......pic from UK Forum thread......100% blocked
The only way to check the nozzles properly is to remove the inlet manifold....
I haven't done it.....but the only thing that makes it slightly more difficult than average is making sure you get a good seal with a new gasket when reinstalling the inlet manifold....should all undo easily...way easier than the exhaust manifold etc.(my pet hate)
My suggestion is 'bite the bullet' and do the full overhaul......otherwise you might replace the pipes and still have a non functioning primary PCV system
As I said, we all should be doing it.......post some pics and tips to show us how easy it is :thumbsup:
Cheers
David
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David, if that restrictor continues through the cylinder head in the way I've indicated in the image, then I think it may be possble to examine and clear it from underneath. I've ordered a USB endoscope (they're surprisingly cheap now) which should allow me to see up into it
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