Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got everything running smoothly after the engine transplant with not even the slightest hickup.

Then I'm coming home one day and notice the water temp goes right up when its cold, hits a spot then dives down to normal. Then I notice that it raises itself a tad again and stays there, higher than what its been but not hot, however still enough to make me skeptical. So, let it go cold and try it again... Sure enough, temp sours, hits a spot then drops dramatically. Must be the thermostat thinks I... Call MB, get a new thermostat, pull out the old one, theres heaps of remnants (sp?) of rusty water so I clean it all up, dump the radiator water, fit the new thermostat, mix up new coolant and anti corrosion then put it all back together (after a block flush), fill her up and off I go to visit my girlfriend. After getting part of the way down the street the temp has sky rocketed, shut her off, pull the bonnet and jump out cursing everything thats resonable in the universe. The overflow is pissing out coolant so I pull the cap. Out bubbles lukewarm water, then after its hemeraged itself there is a small amount of steam. I refill the radiator from someones hose left in a strangers front yard and leave it for awhile. Come back later, turn it on, temp hasnt subsided, drive it the couple of hundred metres to the safety of my driveway where I again pull off the cap and let more pressurised lukewarm water out, swear alot and contemplate setting the car on fire...

Calling up some places in the morning about getting the radiator reco'd.[:(!]

This car has caused me soooo much stress and cost me way more money than what the thing is even worth. Starting to wonder if its even worth it[:(]
 

·
Registered
280SE 280CE 560SEL
Joined
·
978 Posts
It is worth it - keep the faith & stick with it! It's worth it in the end.

Your radiator was probably blocked by all the crud you noticed when flushing the block, and furred-up for the same reason - neglected coolant changes in the past. A new rad should sort it for good. Let us know how you get on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Cam mate,you should remove the thermostat and reverse flush the block for a couple of minutes,really blow a lot of water through it.Get a good rad shop to take the tanks off the rad and get them to rod out the core and then replace the tanks and bolt her back up with the thermo,won't cool without it,.make sure you haven't got a air blockage by filling the rad and lift the front of the car with a jack.start the engine and let it idle with the cap off.keep adding water until it won't take any more.lower it and Fit the new cap you bought and let it idle for a bit longer.the temp should'nt go any higher than 90*.In traffic mercedes says it can run up to the red mark,thats considered normal(but not by me)It must drop immediatly you start moving quickly enough to get a good air flow through the rad.
DID YOU OPen the HEATER TAPS when you filled the rad.?,if not you may have lots of air getting back into the system from the empty heater core.
Also any little leak causes a pressure drop which in turn causes a pressure rise.Make sure there are ZERO leaks.Is the water pump OK?,a rusted out impellor will give the same result as will a slipping belt.
While at the rad shop get a breathalyser test on the rad water. Good luck[:)]
 

·
Registered
2004 E55-1970 280SEC
Joined
·
2,026 Posts
Yea time for a radiator rebuild. I don't know where you're located but there are usually a few in town. What they'll do is re-core it for you. Does wonders.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did the radiator rebuild helped abit. Also did the block flush, new cap, etc, etc... Filled it up with it jacked up and the heater on full. It still shoots upto 250F when it initially warms up :eek: (have a F not C gague [:p]) then drops back down to about 190 - 200 F if air is getting through it and upto about 230 if sitting in traffic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Does the engine have a fixed fan?,is there a shroud fitted? (should be ) Does it have a fan clutch and was it left sitting on it's back or face when it was off?.
If you leave a fan clutch lying down it leak all the viscous oil out and it's either history or refill with toyota viscous oil.The fan may be turning but not pulling enough air to cool the engine.
Is it running at correct Fuel /Air ratio and not too lean?.
Is the advance set properly and not too far advanced?.
Both cause hot running.
I hate to say this though,quick temp rises and quick drops indicate cracked or porous heads....[xx(]
Time for the big dose of Chemi weld...[}:)]
Disconnect the guage and forget it exsists,the engine will go forever and just keep a check on the water level.[:p]and it is nearly winter in Victoria so the snow you guys every day when it's not raining will cool it fine....[:D]
I'm in Sunny Brisbane,http://www.ozmagic.homestead.com/
takes a while to load but is well worth it[:D][8D][8D][8D]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It has a fixed fan as in non electric if thats what you mean? No shroud, never had one since I bought it.
All the rest are 'yes' [:p]

I pulled the brand new thermostat out and decided to run it without it just to see. Been driving it all day and it hasnt gone past 175F... Put the thermostat in a pot of boiling water, took about a minute to open up. A mate of mine is getting me a replacement 71degree one.

Bought the chem-i-weld too, thinking about putting it in anyway, just to be safe since who knows what the overheating could of done, what do you think?

it is nearly winter in Victoria so the snow you guys every day when it's not raining will cool it fine....
I'm in Sunny Brisbane,http://www.ozmagic.homestead.com/
takes a while to load but is well worth it
LOL, don't patronise me [:p] Can't stand the hot weather personally and am hanging for some refreshing frosty winter breezes [:D]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
He he ,I won't post any pics of "Y. L's " to show how we love our sunny warm beaches,in deference to our US freinds and coillition allies.The thermo thing is just like head gaskets,there are at least two different ones,and i guess I should have mentioned that also.A 71* is the best as we don't get cold like the northern hemisphere.I hope that fixes your probs.Post a pic of your ride so we can all Have a look.[:)][:)]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Seems to have fixed it. THe temp fluctuated again on saturday night and used abit of water in the process, but its been fine since... Beats me.

I was going to get some pics up but the batteries went dead in the digital camera. I'll have some up by the weekend at the latest, I promise... Need to lower the thing too :p But cant get the spring compressors on at the rear since the trailing arms are too wide, is there another way I can get them compressed or will I need a special $666,000 special MB compact rear end spring compressor? [:D]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
I use two ordinary spring compressors,but you need to lift the car with suspension arm to compress them a bit first.The most you will get them to compress is about two inches.Ithink a better idea is to put a threaded rod through the bottom and a piece of 1/2" plate on each end,tighten the spring right up then put the compressors on.It would be a lot quicker.If you want to lower it,just light up the Oxy and warm the coils near the bottom until it sags to the desired height.The springs won't be so harsh then.[8D]beleive me though,they may look cool lowered but they drive like shit,the front wheels connect with both the inner and outer guards and the diff joints will fail rapidly due the to the unnatural angle.
Just been through all this with the white 280.[xx(]
Better Idea is air bags,check out the aussie connections in Cruzin magazine.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top