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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2001 S500.
I disconnected the battery, released the air from both front struts, not the rear, so that it would rise evenly when I finished. I changed both front airmatic sensors and the passenger side front strut. When finished the compressor didn't come on at all, the relay did not engage, so I replaced the relay and fuse thinking they were the issue, they were not. I can manually engage the new relay (close the circuit) to start the pump but the car still does not rise and I've noticed that both rear sides are now down as well. note: The red warning too low 'Is Not' on but the car is low all around. It does say visit workshop.

I read someplace that their is DIY procedure for clearing codes that may be stopping the compressor from working. It said to leave your driver side door open and turn the key in the ignition from off-on-off-on.

(1) Does that really work in clearing codes and if so which position is 'on' first click or second because third is start and do I leave the key in and start the car or take it out for a period of time before starting and if so how long? The example I read did not have a lot of details.

(2) Before I started working on the car the relay was working fine and sending signals to the compressor the only issue I had was passenger strut was blown. Why is the relay not receiving and sending signals now?

(3) When I do engage the relay I hear a loud clunking when it starts as if its shaking against something. I haven't had it back in the air to take a look at it so I'm thinking its the bracing as it seems to be pumping fine just not rising.

Thanks, I hope you have some DIY answers for me.

Edward Jones
 

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My guess is the connections from the pump became dislodged during your strut repair
 

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Hi,

The most common thing when changing a Strut is that the Double Plug, (ABS Sensor and Strut Damper Valve wirings) are not properly seated, which causes heap of grief.

If not rather than just chucking parts at it, get it on SDS and see what exactly is wrong ;)

BTW, please don't tell us you bought a Chinese EBay etc Strut, otherwise there is your likely answer, they are absolute Junk and quite often do not work straight outta the Box, (which is usually better quality than the part) ;)

HTH,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi,

The most common thing when changing a Strut is that the Double Plug, (ABS Sensor and Strut Damper Valve wirings) are not properly seated, which causes heap of grief.

If not rather than just chucking parts at it, get it on SDS and see what exactly is wrong ;)

BTW, please don't tell us you bought a Chinese EBay etc Strut, otherwise there is your likely answer, they are absolute Junk and quite often do not work straight outta the Box, (which is usually better quality than the part) ;)

HTH,
Very well could be a Chinese one but that would not stop the other 3 struts from rising. The same would hold true if plugs not properly seated. The rear should have risen as I did nothing to it.
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Very well could be a Chinese one but that would not stop the other 3 struts from rising. The same would hold true if plugs not properly seated. The rear should have risen as I did nothing to it.
Oh no, it absolutely will. Go back and double check your work on the level sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh no, it absolutely will. Go back and double check your work on the level sensors.
So let me make sure I understand. If any of the level sensors are either not working, or not properly seated, then no signal will be sent to the relay to turn the pump on even for the other wheels where the sensor are working. Is that correct?
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Yep. Got it in one. Airmatic module requires all four level sensors to be working before it activates anything.
 

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/\ /\ /\ Absolutely 100% Correct, there are an awful lot of codes that will cause Airmatic Module to just shut down for the protection of the Pump, which is exactly why I suggested SDS and also suggested checking the points I raised in my earlier post ;)

Same goes for Chinese Rubbish, there are many faults that will cause Compressor lockout from Airmatic Module.

And finally it is also possible to orientate the Level Sensor Arms 180 degrees out, which will also cause no rise.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
/\ /\ /\ Absolutely 100% Correct, there are an awful lot of codes that will cause Airmatic Module to just shut down for the protection of the Pump, which is exactly why I suggested SDS and also suggested checking the points I raised in my earlier post ;)

Same goes for Chinese Rubbish, there are many faults that will cause Compressor lockout from Airmatic Module.

And finally it is also possible to orientate the Level Sensor Arms 180 degrees out, which will also cause no rise.
Thanks, you know I always wondered about that 180 degrees out as their are no markings on the sensors, new or old, to indicate which is the proper orientation. It would be nice if they at least stamped 'this side up' on it. Ok, getting ready to go out and put the old working sensors back on and see what happens. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
** Update ** Partial Success!!!

Part of the issue.was one broken wire into the level sensor. I repaired it and now the compressor comes on as expected. Now the other issue I have is that the passenger side front strut is not rising but the others do. Could the problem be a faulty Valve Block?
 

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Is that the side with the chinese strut that you replaced?
 

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You can swap the passenger and driver side lines on the valve body for the front struts. If your problem moves to the other side, it's the valve body, and yes they go faulty. Happened to mine. There are cheap Chinese plastic valve bodies that are said to work fine. I got an OEM Mercedes all metal one. Choose wisely.

And be careful when swapping. Be gentle and try not to damage O-rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You can swap the passenger and driver side lines on the valve body for the front struts. If your problem moves to the other side, it's the valve body, and yes they go faulty. Happened to mine. There are cheap Chinese plastic valve bodies that are said to work fine. I got an OEM Mercedes all metal one. Choose wisely.

And be careful when swapping. Be gentle and try not to damage O-rings.
I'll try that. Thanks. I'll go with the metal one if I have to change it. Is their a way to rebuild the valve block and videos on how to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'll try that. Thanks. I'll go with the metal one if I have to change it. (1) Is their a way to rebuild the valve block and videos on how to do it? (2) Also, is their a diagram of which line goes to which strut? Just did a quick search and didn't see any.
 
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