[tmodler]

Well, the debate over buy or build a camper for the back of the UNIMOG is now over. I joined the ranks of the Alaskan Camper owners this morning. (Actually I have been an owner for a month, but only today did I lay my own eyes on it).

Special thanks go out to Merz-Ben, NeedaMog, and Mike Pop. I really appreciate each of your contributions to getting the camper into my possession. I owe each of you a beverage of your choice.

The camper is in very good original condition. A little winter work and it will be ready for use next spring.

C.

 

[tmodler]

This looked less scary at the time....


C.

 

[Farmerben]

Sweet, congratulations. Looks like it should be lots of fun.

 

[Simon4x4]

Awesome. It's off topic but I see that you guys often use timber floors on trailers whereas we only see steel floors here. I wonder why ? Are they cheaper to build, lighter or is it just tradition ?
Nice camper too. I'd like one. It would save me pitching a tent !

 

[tmodler]

You can get steel trailers here. I prefer the wood decks.

1. Easier to walk on when wet. Steel gets way too slick.

2. Quieter.

3. Does not dent if you haul rocks, and easy to replace.

4. Quieter.

I believe wood has a better compressive strength to weight ratio too.

C.

 

[tkv000]

Is that your tractor? Is it coincidence or do you like blue machinery?

 

[itjobhunter]

That's a very nice looking camper! It looks like a later model too, but I'm not an expert... Post up some interior shots when you get a chance.

Bryan

 

[slothmog]

Alaskan

Wow congrats, that looks like a very nice shape modern one.
Do you have any Idea what it weighs and what year it is?
And yeah some interior picts. would be cool if you get the chance.
A while ago I got a 1974 8' cabover for my 75 power wagon.
Sure do like it... a bit heavy, but all wood interior, no press board at all.
One day I will have to put it on the 406 cabrio just for fun.
Well again congrats, not real easy to find, and it looks like it is in great shape!
Best
Slothmog

 

[krisinak]

good score, is the exterior fiberglass? do you have an idea of the weight? cheers.

 

[tmodler]

Exterior and most of interior is fiberglass. Almost no wood in this model.

I have been told they are 1500 lbs, but I really have no information to back that up.

C.

 

[Merz-Ben]

By the load it was on my little loader tractor, I would estimate it between 1500 and 1800 lbs. It was at least as heavy as a 1500 lb round bale.

 

[tmodler]

Is that your tractor? Is it coincidence or do you like blue machinery?

Nope, while I do have a Blue Tractor (Ford 5000), that one is Ben's. Mine is loader-less.

C.

Edit: I guess that is obvious from Ben's reply above. Must have been sending it at the same time.

 

[tmodler]

Getting slowly around to doing something with this....

The outside is now in White Primer (I hate woodgrain...)

Some woodgrain to repaint on the inside, but going to keep the stock wall paintings.

Good condition overall, 2 main mechanical issues to deal with. The rear guides and top/bottom seals need to be replaced.

These will be fixed by installing proper nutserts and machine thread fasteners.

Also, someone tried to fix the mount for the front passenger hydro cylinder and did a nice job except it is about 30mm too high. Will have to correct that.

C.

 

[tmodler]

Besides the mechanical and painting, I how I get A/C and a proper fridge installed this summer. Also sleeping quarters.

Anyone want to share their thoughts on roof mounted RV AC units for this setup? Not sure how else I would do it...

C.

 

[DokaTD]

What is your power source for HVAC? That will greatly determine your setup.

 

[tmodler]

Power will be one of:

-Shore Power (Likely more of the time AC is needed then not, during the summer the most likely use of the camper is going to be in campgrounds and such. More remote trips are Spring/fall for us usually.)
-Generator Power
-24VDC/120VAC inverter system

Will have enough power to start a 13.5kbtu unit.

C.

 

[DokaTD]

Shore power, good. Didn't know if you were going to try to run a large bank of batteries or something.

My suggestion, go grab a window unit from Home Depot that is sized correctly for the camper. Then take it all apart!!!!

They are brutally simple units, and they are easily packaged into a new box. Or actually multiple. Keep in mind you will have to add service ports as window units don't have them. But this will be easy as you will likely want to add hoses to separate the condenser and evaporator.

 

[CragDuc]

This is a topic that I have researched a bit while trying to figure out how to cool both the cab and the Krankenwagen box. Here's an eBay reconditioned unit for not a lot of money Dometic Duotherm RV Air Conditioner Brisk 13 500 BTU with Warranty | eBay
I looked at using a 24V (truck no-idle) style of unit for the camper box, but was told the volume was too large - that's why the caravan and RV units are 110V. Our problem with offroad trucks is that the rooftop unit is likely to get removed by the first low hanging branch. Also, weight up high is never a good idea. This one is my pick, but I cannot find space for the main unit ecowind1 - lombardinigroup.it

A small inverter type domestic split system with the main unit tucked under the camper overhang (along the side) could be an option. Probably easier to noise insulate than the rooftop ones.

 

[tmodler]

Those Ecowinds look like the hot setup. Amazingly quiet.

Any idea how much or where you can buy them outside Italy (if you can...).

C.

 

[CragDuc]

In your part of the world they go under the Kohler brand - Kohler Power: Bergstrom/Kohler Hybrid Power Idling-Reduction System Collecting Industry Accolades: Press Releases: About Us. There were a bunch of 2nd hand units available on ebay.com a while back, but I can't find them now.