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94 s420 98 s420
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just changed my front rotors and pads all around now have some noise I believe from the front. initially there was no noise but after a two hour trip I heard it pulling in home. I just jacked the car up and spun the front wheels and there is some light scrapping from the shield but it sounds nothing like what iam getting while driving. What else could it possibly be aside from the shield. Iam gonna have to do everything over again till I find where the noise is coming from. The noise disappears once I brake, which is why I am also disregarding the shield thing. Any ideas, thank you.
 

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1995 S500
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99 Posts
A few suggestions to check:

Caliper Bolts - if they are not tight the caliper could be misaligned to the rotor and causing rubbing.

Wheel Bearings - Did you replace / repack bearings at the same time? Is the bearing play correct?

Pad Insert - I never remember what it's called - the little metal plate that fits between the back of the pad and the caliper pistons. Dont forget that and the brake grease that goes on them.

Hope that helps!
 

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92 400SE, 93 400E, 01 CLK320, 01 ML320, 98 Land Rover Discovery
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196 Posts
More information on the sound of the noise and if you're turning or going over rough terrain when the noise happens will help.

I'm assuming you're not speaking of brake squeal which is a different subject entirely.

But I would check the following

Brake Pad retaining pins (I'm guessing one of the pins has come loose) I had a similar problem on my 400E

After changing the lower control arms, I had a problem with the rotor shield rubbing when I had sharp turns, but this should have been an issue for you.

Caliber bolts are tight - correct torque value
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the response guys, the noise is there while im cruising slowly and once I apply the brakes it goes away. Iam thinking maybe I put one of the retaining spring upside down, I caught myself doing it unintentionly to the rear rotor they fit both ways. Im gonna have to remove the front and reinspect everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I just jacked the car back up and spun that one tire where I think the noise is coming from and it was fine. So my next step was to take the tire off and inspect the brake components. I come to take the first bolt off and it was loose, same for the rest. All my bolts came loose somehow. I had tightened these with alot more torque then whats there now. I pulled off the tire anyway and everything was ok. Put the tire back, this time I torqued them while the tire was jus Barely touching the ground, enough to hold the tire in place while tightening. I remember I had let the tire go all the way down then tightened the bolts just on that one tire, a stupid mistake. Lesson learned here dont tighten these bolts while the tire is all the way down, as stupid as it sound it happened. Thank god this tire didnt come off while driving home for 2 hours.
 

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95 S500
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Wow, you are lucky that you have found this before something worse happens. I would probably do the same thing with the tire all the way down.[:eek:)]
 

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1995 S500
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you are lucky.

make sure you torque them to the right spec. I think its 110 ft-lbs. but you can check in the owners manual or someone here can tell you.

GM
 

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92 400SE, 93 400E, 01 CLK320, 01 ML320, 98 Land Rover Discovery
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Torque lug nuts on a w140 150nm or 110ft-lb


Tighten the fasteners a quarter turn at a time using the tightening sequence diagram as a guide. This is very important to prevent misalignment of the wheel. Continue tightening the fasteners in sequence until the fasteners are tightened to the proper torque

CAUTION: Improper torque or tightening sequence can cause distortion, fatigue cracks, or alignment problems. After driving the vehicle for a short distance, recheck the wheel fastener torque. Parts will usually seat naturally, reducing the torque on the fasteners. Retorque all fasteners to the proper torque.
 

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1995 S420
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Sorry, tighten lug bolts to 80 ft-lb of torque. The 110 you say is for brand new cars or the spare being used for the first time.

rsmcmahon - 4/12/2006 3:43 PM

Torque lug nuts on a w140 150nm or 110ft-lb


Tighten the fasteners a quarter turn at a time using the tightening sequence diagram as a guide. This is very important to prevent misalignment of the wheel. Continue tightening the fasteners in sequence until the fasteners are tightened to the proper torque

CAUTION: Improper torque or tightening sequence can cause distortion, fatigue cracks, or alignment problems. After driving the vehicle for a short distance, recheck the wheel fastener torque. Parts will usually seat naturally, reducing the torque on the fasteners. Retorque all fasteners to the proper torque.
 

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The manual shows 110nm or 80ft-lb for every car except w140.


Parts will usually seat naturally, reducing the torque on the fasteners. Retorque all fasteners to the proper torque or in this case 150nm
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the adivse, Finally I have to tell you how amazing the braking system now is, new rotors and pads and the car stop like no other car I have ever owned. The stopping power is amazing took about 100 miles before they really started catching.
 

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Guest said:
The manual shows 110nm or 80ft-lb for every car except w140.


Parts will usually seat naturally, reducing the torque on the fasteners. Retorque all fasteners to the proper torque or in this case 150nm
Thank you so much fellas, mu 420 es due for another pads R/R and rotor reface all around. I really appreciate the gut advice and expertise! Sincere appreciation... Hans
 
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