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Discussion Starter #1
I changed the alternator and charged the battery. Now, car shows no life. The key turns, but there are lights on instrument cluster, nothing at all. Even headlights and breaklights won't come on. The only things that turns on are the radio and inside lights. I have checked all the fuses (three locations) and they all seem to be alright. What could be wrong? Please help!
 

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1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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Hard to help here when you haven't filled out your profile, and you have a unknown year/model MB.

Assuming the alternator replacement was kosher - then I would pull the battery and have the battery load tested, hopefully sounds like you might have only a few cells left in that puppy and the battery needs replacement.

If you have a W210 or MB with electronic key FOB - note you have to be very careful and have your key entirely out of the ignition during any in-car "battery charging or battery jump", and the key must be out while you reconect the battery - or you stand a very good chance of frying the key, and/or even frying the hugely expensive AAM.

Keep the beat !
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Its a 1997 E320. Battery confirmed to be ok. Key was not in the ignition. A fuse by the base module (40am) was blown, but has been replaced. What is AAM?
 

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The AAM is the (all activity module) and controls many of the base start up functions for the vehicle.

Master Certified since 05'
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How do I verify this. Could it be also CPU or something else. I had to purchase a new battery to eliminate all doubts. Again, alternator is good. Has this happened to anyone before?
 

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1998 E320 Base Sedan, 175k
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How do I verify this. Could it be also CPU or something else. I had to purchase a new battery to eliminate all doubts. Again, alternator is good. Has this happened to anyone before?
My 98 E320 with a brand new alt and battery all of a sudden stopped acting as though it has any power. Opening the doors the lights and radio don’t even turn on. I’m still trying to figure this out as we speak. My ignition won’t even let me put the key in to begin the process of attempting to start. But the battery isn’t dead and the alt works so idk where to start with this, and don’t have money to throw into diagnostic replacements rn.
 

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1998 E320 Base Sedan, 175k
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How do I verify this. Could it be also CPU or something else. I had to purchase a new battery to eliminate all doubts. Again, alternator is good. Has this happened to anyone before?
Did you ever find a source of the issues for your e320?
 

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1999 E320, 2000 E320, 2003 E320 Wagon, 2005 C230K SS, 2010 Accord LX w Eibach & Koni FSD's
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Start by checking the battery cables are clean and tight. Make sure the ground cable is connected at the hatch below and in front of the passenger seat.
 

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Welcome Steezycheez,

No lights, no power, nothing. You have an open circuit.
Meaning...you have no connection to the PS.
History of events?
Who installed the new alternator and battery? When?
Was there power after the install?
 

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1998 E320 Base Sedan, 175k
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Start by checking the battery cables are clean and tight. Make sure the ground cable is connected at the hatch below and in front of the passenger seat.
I did check the battery itself, cables and posts and all looks good on that end of things, didn’t check the ground will have to do that.
 

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1998 E320 Base Sedan, 175k
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Welcome Steezycheez,

No lights, no power, nothing. You have an open circuit.
Meaning...you have no connection to the PS.
History of events?
Who installed the new alternator and battery? When?
Was there power after the install?
Yeah exactly no lights no power no nothing. And that’s what I’ve assumed was an open circuit but no idea how to sort that out. What exactly does PS mean? And Battery and Alt definitely work and have for the last 3-4 months, my cousin and me did the alt and the battery. Idek what events would cause something like this, but I’ve owned the car for like 4 something years, 175k miles on the dash now, and maybe a year and a half two years into owning the car I one day I went to my friends and the car showed no issues at all starting or driving and I went to his house, hung out a couple hours and when I went to take off, she acted completely dead, (cant recall if the radio turned on or the dome lights then, or the key being able to go in the ignition or not as it was a while ago but seemingly just like the current state of affairs) and I skateboarded home and just went to bed, and skated back like 6 hours later, she started up as though nothing ever happened and I was baffled but drove home and went about my day, but this did happen again maybe 2 months later during one of my overnight shifts, I went on break and had a dead car again, and by morning when I got off the clock, she was back to running like the top she usually is, and this hasn’t happened since in those 2 years. I had a couple of bulbs out that I needed changed for a bit and when I would get my lamp defective messages sometimes there would be a “check engine electronics” message and only every now and then, but it went away and hadn’t came back, so I didn’t think much of it, plus that’s usually a maf or O2 sensor. And the day before when this started it did sluggishly turn over as though the battery was lowish but not enough that it made any significant difference in my eyes, but then this the next day, and I’m an electronics idiot so lots of help required lmao.
 

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1998 E320 Base Sedan, 175k
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Excuse me being rude btw, thanks for the welcome and the fast replies were great. I forgot to mention the battery charger I was using that said the battery wasn’t dead said it had 50-55% and also idk how accurate it is, the negative clamp on it is also semi broken so yeah not sure how well it charged either, need to get a multimeter to rly see what’s going on battery wise.
 

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Excuse me being rude btw, thanks for the welcome and the fast replies were great. I forgot to mention the battery charger I was using that said the battery wasn’t dead said it had 50-55% and also idk how accurate it is, the negative clamp on it is also semi broken so yeah not sure how well it charged either, need to get a multimeter to rly see what’s going on battery wise.
No worries.
PS=Power supply.
As far as I'm concerned, 50-55% reading with a (cheap) charger, on a battery is dead.
A fully charged battery should measure at 12.6 V or above. When the engine is running, it should read between 13.7 to 14.7 V.
Test with a fresh battery.

EDIT:
After reading your short story, it also seems you may have a parasitic drain. You need to test to find that drain.
 

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1998 E320 Base Sedan, 175k
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No worries.
PS=Power supply.
As far as I'm concerned, 50-55% reading with a (cheap) charger, on a battery is dead.
A fully charged battery should measure at 12.6 V or above. When the engine is running, it should read between 13.7 to 14.7 V.
Test with a fresh battery.

EDIT:
After reading your short story, it also seems you may have a parasitic drain. You need to test to find that drain.
Except if parasitic drain was the case it would die all the time and it doesn’t, and the battery hadn’t died previously when it lost power years ago as without jumping I came back to start it a day later and then hours later the second time. This time it’s been days and perhaps the battery is dead, and I’m just going to get a cheap multimeter cause I’m gonna have to tinker with it beyond that I think anyway, plus this charger doesn’t seem like it’s probably that accurate, cause it fluctuated a lot lol.. And I’m aware of Proper battery voltage haha. There is a intermittent sunroof leak that when it does decide to leak leaks through the sunroof onto the headliner and down into the rear dome light, and I have that housing disconnected but that’s been the case for a while
 

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Except if parasitic drain was the case it would die all the time and it doesn’t, and the battery hadn’t died previously when it lost power years ago as without jumping I came back to start it a day later and then hours later the second time. This time it’s been days and perhaps the battery is dead, and I’m just going to get a cheap multimeter cause I’m gonna have to tinker with it beyond that I think anyway, plus this charger doesn’t seem like it’s probably that accurate, cause it fluctuated a lot lol.. And I’m aware of Proper battery voltage haha. There is a intermittent sunroof leak that when it does decide to leak leaks through the sunroof onto the headliner and down into the rear dome light, and I have that housing disconnected but that’s been the case for a while
fyi.
That sunroof leak, depending on where the water trail it takes and where the puddle of water is ending up can also cause a multitude of electrical gremlins including what you are experiencing.
 

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1998 E320 Base Sedan, 175k
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fyi.
That sunroof leak, depending on where the water trail it takes and where the puddle of water is ending up can also cause a multitude of electrical gremlins including what you are experiencing.
It’s a random leak so it only happens sometimes, and there wasn’t any rain to cause anything specifically around when this started, plus I disconnected the rear dome light where it leaks into months ago.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Measure voltage on the plus post (under the hood, driver side, under a lid marked with "+"), and the ground stud nearby. These are the charging posts for the battery. If no 12V there, you have a loose connection on one of the battery terminals, or the negative disconnect strap on the wall of the rear passenger seat under a lid.
 
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