[rockyx]

Hi all. I recently bought a 1981 380SL and even though I've only had it a week I'm loving this car.

It starts up and runs pretty well although it runs rich. I also pulled the carpet and found a little rust in the back floor pans. Nothing major (compared to my last rebuild) but it will need some work.

I've been reading the forum trying to chase down a few items to get started but could use a little extra help. Apparently, I'm not too good at the search feature yet.

First, the PO was telling me that he thought it was running rich due to a vacuum problem. Does this sound familiar? Any particular direction I should look.

Also, I need to replace the floor pan plugs but cannot seem to find a source. Can you make some suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your help and I'm looking forward to learning from everyone as I embark on this refurbish initiative.

Thanks

 

[dugald]

Welcome to the forum.
These cars are plagued with vacuum problems. Make it a project to troubleshoot and renew the plumbing. Lots of relevant posts.

Floor pan plugs? You mean the rubber stoppers? I found some that worked at NAPA.

 

[hchaugli]

Hi all. I recently bought a 1981 380SL and even though I've only had it a week I'm loving this car.

It starts up and runs pretty well although it runs rich. I also pulled the carpet and found a little rust in the back floor pans. Nothing major (compared to my last rebuild) but it will need some work.

I've been reading the forum trying to chase down a few items to get started but could use a little extra help. Apparently, I'm not too good at the search feature yet.

First, the PO was telling me that he thought it was running rich due to a vacuum problem. Does this sound familiar? Any particular direction I should look.

Also, I need to replace the floor pan plugs but cannot seem to find a source. Can you make some suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your help and I'm looking forward to learning from everyone as I embark on this refurbish initiative.

Thanks

Engine vacuum leak sources: Brakebooster, transmission, central locking, light range adjuster, eco gauge, ventilation flaps, ignition advance, EGR valve.
The central locking, light range adjuster, eco gauge and ventilation flaps are connected to a rubber manifold located in the engine bay very close to the left hood hinge.

 

[cwmoser]

I wonder if he blocked off the vacuum at the back of the intake to see if the
Engine runs smoother.

Carl

 

[reno4u2]

These cars are plagued with vacuum problems. Make it a project to troubleshoot and renew the plumbing. Lots of relevant posts.

+1 on this. The hard plastic lines do break but I found that the smaller rubber vacuum lines used to connect the plastic ones to each other or to other components usually fail first. Best bet is to replace anything rubber under the hood. The rubber lines are nothing special so pick up a few feet at Autozone or wherever. Some of the Y fittings and curved rubber tubing you will probably have to order. AutohausAZ has them.

 

[rockyx]

Thanks for the response. I found a mechanic nearby who works on these cars so I'll have him take a look and give me a diagnosis.

Regarding the rubber floor pan plugs, I cannot find them anywhere. I tried NAPA, Advanced Auto, Ace Hardware, and numerous websites.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks

 

[rowdie]

In the EGv107 Sticky Section 00) General Technical Data there are several helpful links.
1. Mercedes on line service manual.
2. Mercedes US Classic Center parts department
3. Mercedes Electronic Parts Catalog, EPC. Look up part numbers including the expansion plugs. Free subscription for US residents but you have to provide a credit card to prove residence. Recently posted that the on line application is working again.

The EGv107 also has information on the front subframe failure problemand timing chain failure (is yours a US model with the single row timing chain?) If yours is a US model it also has the problematic ACCII system. There is a climate control section with some info on this.

Welcome to the asylum.

 

[Djenka018]

a quick and reliable fix for rubber connectors is use of a simple contact adhesive like one used for vinyl floors, applied to the outer end of plastic tube that is inserted into rubber.
rubber stretches over time allowing vac leakage. In engine bay, IME, contact adhesive is good for 5+ years of daily drive.
I patched cracked plastic tubes with silicone tubing and completely replaced it for perished vac adjustment on distributor