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1992 300CE, Engine M104, (2002 E320 4matic Wagon—Retired)
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329 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello there,

This must sound very elementary but, I have never jacked up my wagon and put it on jack-stands. I have a hydraulic floor jack and 2 flat-top jack-stands. To put 2 flat-top jack-stands on the rear side jack-stand points, where do I place the floor jack? Or is it better to use the factory jack and do this one side at a time?

I was going to place the floor jack under the rear differential (center) with some plywood on the jack to lift the rear end up, so I can place both stands at the same time. Does that sound about right?

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I am doing this to change the accumulators. Thanks in advance.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Some members said the MB allows rear differential as lifting point, but I would confirm that with manual. Unlike solid differentials, that transfer the weight to the suspension springs, the MB is using CV joints on axles and by lifting under differential you are lifting the car by differential mounts only.
Lifting with car jack (after blocking the wheels) and putting stands under factory lifting pads seems to be most straight-forward method.
I am using floor jack under the pads to lift the car and than put stands under suspension brackets, but you need to be able to tell what is solid point
 

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89 300E; 00 E320
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2,510 Posts
I would not use factory jack except to lift only one side. This would be approximately 1/4 weight of vehicle.

Trying to lift the other side with the first side on jack stand would be the same as lifting approximately 1/2 weight of vehicle.

Secondary to that, the design of factory jack leads to movement when trying to get that other side up which can be dangerous and cause catastrophic failure.
 

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1992 300CE, Engine M104, (2002 E320 4matic Wagon—Retired)
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329 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Would there be another spot to lift the whole rear-end up with one floor jack (besides the differential)?
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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I would not use factory jack except to lift only one side. This would be approximately 1/4 weight of vehicle.

Trying to lift the other side with the first side on jack stand would be the same as lifting approximately 1/2 weight of vehicle.

Secondary to that, the design of factory jack leads to movement when trying to get that other side up which can be dangerous and cause catastrophic failure.
Huh? What does it matter if the other side is on the tire or on a jackstand? It's still raising one corner at a time; how is it suddenly lifting half of the car?

I have often used the factory jack to raise one corner, then set a jackstand and raised the corner on the other side. You are correct when you say there is some potential for movement, so it's important to keep tabs on where you are and what you are doing and to be sure you are on a perfectly level spot when using the factory jack as they can and will let the car roll right off.

But I'd respectfully submit that there is nothing inherently wrong or dangerous about using the factory jack (in lieu of a floor jack) to raise a corner of the car and then setting a jackstand in place, then proceeding around the car to do exactly the same thing. If there is evidence (as opposed to opinion) to the contrary, I'd be most interested in seeing it.

If one is concerned about it (or would like something easier anyway), there is a guy who sells steel shafts that extend into the factory jack point, and then you can use a floor jack under them to raise the car, again corner by corner.
 

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89 300E; 00 E320
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When you jack up one side and place the jackstand at max height that the factory jack will go it is higher than with the wheel on and on the ground. When you place the jack on the other side the weight of the vehicle is loaded to that side and seems to force the jack away from the vehicle, thus sliding if not chocked properly and sometimes even if so.

If you want both sides up safely then something like rhino ramps would do.
 

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89 300E; 00 E320
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That is not the point. Can the factory jack lift the load, sure. Is it made to lift the opposite side of one that is on a jackstand on the other side, no. With movement, and there will be movement from time to time, that one point jack will move and that is dangerous.

Use of a floor jack on the jacking pad should be ok, and I kind of like the idea of placing a long bolt in the jacking point and using that. Then placing the jackstands on the pads. Just do not use the factory jack for this maneuver when jacking the opposite side.

Further using the fact that sometimes the rear wheel leaves the ground when front jacking point is used; would it not show the force that could be placed on the opposite front if you decide to use a factory jack there at that point? Don't do it.

And another consideration and I have had this happen on the w124, when jacking with factory jack then placing jackstand on pad then removing factory jack. Once you remove the factory jack then try to insert the factory jack to remove the jackstand the bottom of the jack has interference from the jackstand. It is in the design of the factory jack and the way it is "cocked" and in the one point to ground design.
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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Well, if I die from the car leaping in the air and dope-slapping me for using the factory jack to raise more than one corner, you have my permission to say, "I told you so."

I guess suffice it to say that I'm unconvinced by your arguments.

Re: Kajtek1's note, I'll admit that I have raised one side of the car with a floor jack at the front lift point and rotated the tires that way. I set a jackstand in place while it's up there -- just in case. ;)
 

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2005 W215 CL500
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Jack the car up using the floor jack under the differential. The differential is bolted firmly to the rear subframe, so there will be no problem with CV joints etc.

I have done it one side at a time using the cars own jack...but I didn't like it.
 

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1992 300CE, Engine M104, (2002 E320 4matic Wagon—Retired)
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329 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I like the bolt idea, but where do I find a bolt that can withstand 4000 pounds or more which also fits in the factory jack spot?
 

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I like the bolt idea, but where do I find a bolt that can withstand 4000 pounds or more which also fits in the factory jack spot?
Your car weighs 16,000 lbs? What, do you have the heavily-armored South American drug kingpin edition?

It only needs to support one corner at a time, plus some more if you go high enough.

I would bet if you found a long enough bolt in the Grade 5 range (or better) that the shaft would fit in, and then cut off the threads (to make it full strength) that would be more than sufficient.

I'll look around and see if I can find the thread talking about it, but the guy was selling the bolt for like $11 plus shipping, which seemed a bit excessive to me. (Perhaps he's a former MB parts dealer? :p)
 

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2002 e320 4matic Wagon
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this guy shows you how to use the bolt and sells it on his site. I don't know if it's grade 8 or not, but would think a "typical bolt" would be stronger than the stock jack. I have a few 3/4 inch bolts lying around, and am planning to try one.
 

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1992 300CE, Engine M104, (2002 E320 4matic Wagon—Retired)
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329 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Big-ass-bolt...I wonder if the towing eye would do the same job (although it is extruded aluminum). Do you think I can pick up a similar bolt at lowes or hd?
 

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Big-ass-bolt...I wonder if the towing eye would do the same job (although it is extruded aluminum). Do you think I can pick up a similar bolt at lowes or hd?
I wouldn't try the winch eye (it's not really a towing eye), it's surely not designed for that kind of shear force.

So far as the bolt, if you can find the right diameter, just be sure it's Grade 5 or better. Something less might work, but considering that if it bends it is likely to damage the body or jam itself in the lift hole, I wouldn't risk it. I don't know what HD or Lowes carry, but better hardware stores certainly would.
 

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I just tried a "normal" bolt i had lying around. No markings except for those of the manufacturer. I looked it up and it said "grade 4.5-9". At any rate, it bent. So i'd recommend one of those grade 8 bolts. Not a bad price--i'm going to buy one.
 
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