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1998 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Newbie here. This is great site and great sticky but for novice like me, need some assistance.

E320 Sedan. 24K miles (yes, original miles. That is my main problem)

1. Check Electronics / Check Engine Light

2. Brake Lining Wear : How do I know which pads to replace (front either side and or Rear.) If I have to replace only one side, do I have to replace both side or ok to just replace the defective ones. Also sensor...replace or keep and have to buy OEM sensor of =r can get aftermarket.

3. Bulb Lamp Defective...checked all front and back lights and they are all operating.


4. Power Steering fluid disappears over several months (with or w/o Driving)

5. A/C discharges every year. Now it does not hold for long.

Again, everybody here is very smart and have gone through this problems before...so please help me on what to get done. I have a local mechanic who is good but do not want to go to him blinded. Thanks
 

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1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
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3,513 Posts
1. Get the codes read. AutoZone and Advanced Auto, etc. will read them for free.
2. If only one side is wearing out, you have an issue. Both sides should wear equally and be replaced at the same time. Tell us the year of your car. There are sensors on both front wheels and on at least one rear wheel. I always replace them. You have to if you are seeing the amber brake pad light.
3.Do a search - lots of posts and fixes for that. Likely one of your brake lights or maybe your license plate light.
4. Find the leak and fix it. It doesn't get used up.
5. Same as #4.
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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31,631 Posts
ewbie here. This is great site and great sticky but for novice like me, need some assistance.
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Welcome. First things first, click user cp and add your vehicle and location to your profile, it's useful information.


E320 Sedan. 24K miles (yes, original miles. That is my main problem)

1. Check Electronics / Check Engine Light
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Check fuses and read codes, that's the place to start.


2. Brake Lining Wear : How do I know which pads to replace (front either side and or Rear.) If I have to replace only one side, do I have to replace both side or ok to just replace the defective ones. Also sensor...replace or keep and have to buy OEM sensor of =r can get aftermarket.
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Pads are always replaced in axle sets, not sides or singly. Most likely it's your fronts but the only way to be sure is to pull a rear wheel to inspect. If they have plenty of material, it's your fronts.

3. Bulb Lamp Defective...checked all front and back lights and they are all operating.
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Read the stickies. Most likely it is one of your license plate bulbs.

4. Power Steering fluid disappears over several months (with or w/o Driving)
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Must have a leak somewhere, only way to find it is to investigate. Use the search function to find a recent thread about someone who had a leak in the rack and thus far had some success with a stop-leak product. Find that brand and consider whether it's worth trying.

5. A/C discharges every year. Now it does not hold for long.
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Could be lots of things. Only wayto find out is to have it looked at.

Again, everybody here is very smart and have gone through this problems before...so please help me on what to get done. I have a local mechanic who is good but do not want to go to him blinded. Thanks.


Just a thought, but from a financial standpoint you're wasting your money with this car. As little as you drive it itis actually harmful, and you could rent a car when needed for less than the cost of insurance and upkeep...that is more the case if you're paying someone else to fix it. If the AC leak is the evap core, that's about 50-100 days of car rental depending on where you are...and that's just one repair. Every seal in the car is now suspect, so you can expect more of this, too.

Good luck.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I have same 1998 E320, so will add to what Len has said:

1. There is a socket under driver side dash for OBDII meter - You can get the codes read at Advance auto or anywhere they have an OBD meter. But all you will get is some strange numbers, like P0173 or something like that. Then you have to look up what that means. Sometimes it is easy like a gas cap that is not on tight (try that first!) or an Oxygen sensor. But check it first then ask here what code means. Common problem is bad MAF (Mass air flowmeter). Easy DIY fix, but part can be expensive.

2. At that mileage, you shouldn't need new pads or sensors. If brake light is on, it might be something else. Brake pads are very easy to change on these cars, but be sure to use original pads or equivalent (cheaper to buy them on-line) The sensors should still be oK, but are very inexpensive if you do need them. You must do both sides at same time and rotors usually need changing too. The thickness should be checked against specs (which we can get if you ask). Rear pads and rotors wear more slowly, so probably don't need changing until next time fronts are done (but check them anyway)

3. That message comes up a lot. It is probably a bad connection on tail lights. Check turn lights brake lights, running lights, Hi low beams (two bulbs in each headlight)

4. No idea why you would lose PS fluid unless there is a leak somewhere - check under car.

5. A/C leaks happen. An A/C shop can put in some dye and then look for leaks. I had one on the condenser at front of car. Not that expensive to fix. But an evaporator leak Under dash ) is. It could also just be a compressor seal. You can buy R134a in cans at Walmart plus a charging kit to top up yourself, but I would go to pros and see what they say.

Good Luck!
 

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99 E430, 01 E430 Sport, 00 SL500
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24K miles in 12 years is 5.47miles/day
Is it 24K miles or 1,024,000 miles?
I bet $2.40 the odometer was replaced or rolled back.
 

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MBGraham....just curious: wherever did you get the idea pads wouldn't wear out in 24K? It is entirely dependent on the way they drive the car. If most of it is short trips with frequent stops they might wear out in 12,000 miles, maybe even less. Mostly highway, maybe 60K or more, but there's no appropriate way to make a blanket statement like that.
 

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1998 E320 Sedan
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thank you for the replies.

1. The miles are original (mbvis). I do not drive much at all, as I have another Japanese car that I put on 175K miles. I will start driving this car more ( Thanks Kajtek1) or sell it. I just park the car on my driveway for weeks on. That has caused the tires to sun-rot and replaced. I am sure more such problems are going to pop. But first need to get this is reasonable shape.

2. I will get the codes today from nearby Advance Auto and report back.

3. Thanks for the lamp defective advice. Did not check the license plate bulb and will check again to see if that is the problem.

4. Brake pads ( thanks MbGraham, gregs210). I was looking online on Autohausz and they show four pads set for front. But when you read the details it is confusing if the price is for one set or on pad. Do I need four pads per wheel or two per wheel or four or two front wheels.

Update: Read gregs DIY again and looks two pads per wheel. Anyone have a cheapest recommendation for the pads. Dealer wants to charge $70 per set or $140 for two sets.

5. will investigate A/C and PS and will post further.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,465 Posts
MBGraham....just curious: wherever did you get the idea pads wouldn't wear out in 24K? It is entirely dependent on the way they drive the car. If most of it is short trips with frequent stops they might wear out in 12,000 miles, maybe even less. Mostly highway, maybe 60K or more, but there's no appropriate way to make a blanket statement like that.
Greg - you are being picky ;) I didn't say they wouldn't wear out, I said the shouldn't wear out!
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,465 Posts
4. Brake pads ( thanks MbGraham, gregs210). I was looking online on Autohausz and they show four pads set for front. But when you read the details it is confusing if the price is for one set or on pad. Do I need four pads per wheel or two per wheel or four or two front wheels.

Update: Read gregs DIY again and looks two pads per wheel. Anyone have a cheapest recommendation for the pads. Dealer wants to charge $70 per set or $140 for two sets.
Last time, I bought Mintex front pads from Autohaus ($39.00). Just order the front SET which consists of two pads per side. - They have stood up well. I also used the Zimmerman rotors that they sell (check wear on yours to determine if needed) (2 per car at ~$70 each)

If you buy rear pads, double check part vs your car's VIN because the pads were modified at some point. Unlikely rear rotors would be worn.
 

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1959 220S cabriolet, 1983 240D original owner, 1999 E300 turbo diesel, 1988 560SL, 2003 SLK320
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I got 80,000 miles on my last set of front brake pads. Rears are still original at 140,000 miles.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Thank you for the replies.

1. The miles are original (mbvis). I do not drive much at all, as I have another Japanese car that I put on 175K miles. I will start driving this car more ( Thanks Kajtek1) or sell it. I just park the car on my driveway for weeks on. That has caused the tires to sun-rot and replaced. I am sure more such problems are going to pop. But first need to get this is reasonable shape..
I have extra vehicles for last 25 years, so something is always parked for weeks or months. One thing I learned very fast in California is to protect the vehicles from the sunlight. Even my tractor sits under the carport and despite 26 years of age it looks still pretty new, with original tires still in decent condition.
Fixing all the problems at the stealer would probably cost you more than the car value, so I advise caution. On older Mercedes PS leak I had good success with PS leak stop. I don't remember the brand, but I bought the most expensive one they had in the store.
Small AC leaks can cost a fortune to fix as well. My AC leaks 1 or 2 cans a season, so I just add that amount without worrying about it farther. Seems that with refrigerant pressure on low side it is more efficient and is freezing my elbows with 100F outside.
Drive the thing more and do one thing at the time. Brakes sure should be priority. Get Akebonos on Amazon and you will love them like most members do.
 

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1998 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #13
Went to Advance Auto yesterday and pulled the following codes:

1/2
P0173 Mod $01
Fuel Trim (Bank 2)

2/2
P0172 Mod $01
Fuel Trim (Bank 1)
Pending


Do not know what it all means. I did search and I guess it is MAF replacement time?

If MAF, where to find the cheapest and I am sure there is a sticky out there that shows how to replace.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,465 Posts
Went to Advance Auto yesterday and pulled the following codes:

1/2
P0173 Mod $01
Fuel Trim (Bank 2)

2/2
P0172 Mod $01
Fuel Trim (Bank 1)
Pending


Do not know what it all means. I did search and I guess it is MAF replacement time?

If MAF, where to find the cheapest and I am sure there is a sticky out there that shows how to replace.
Almost certainly MAF - There is another active thread right now on sources.

The online prices are for the complete housing and insert. Some sell just the insert less $$. I checked German Star and they were about $130 for the insert). But best to check if they are genuine Bosch or made in China knock-offs. Interested to hear who has the best deal - I may need another one one of these days!
 

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Almost certainly MAF - There is another active thread right now on sources.

The online prices are for the complete housing and insert. Some sell just the insert less $$. I checked German Star and they were about $130 for the insert). But best to check if they are genuine Bosch or made in China knock-offs. Interested to hear who has the best deal - I may need another one one of these days!
The only inserts I have seen that are Bosch are actually for VW and are not calibrated for the MB engine. There are a few threads about the problems with them. There are also a few threads from folks who bought the (Bosch packaged) insert from Germanstar and got a Chinese part, although it apparently worked okay. Last I recall he was selling those with shipping for right around $135...which is about $20 less than buying the entire genuine Bosch assemble (with free shipping) from Autohausaz.com.

For twenty bucks there is no way I'd take that risk. A bad maf can kill cats, and that's an expense no one wants or needs.

If you're looking for the least expensive part, then you already have the wrong attitude. All too often it is the cheap man who ends up paying the most.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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If you're looking for the least expensive part, then you already have the wrong attitude. All too often it is the cheap man who ends up paying the most.
Why the lecture :confused:?

Last time I bought an MAF, I bought the OE one from MB Canada and installed it in the parking lot before driving home!

Next time, if I can buy an insert for $130 and (as I said previously), confirm it is a genuine Bosch, then I would buy that. No point in buying the plastic housing that does nothing. I already have two of those!

But if Bosch don't sell the insert, so be it. But just checking with a Bosch dealer here in Canada, they list complete unit for C$160 and insert only for $140. Insert OE part number is given as F00C2G2025 and picture is of unit with Bosch markings. I would phone first to confirm though.
 

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1998 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry , it has been a while. Ran into some unexpected bills so had to delay the repairs.

Took to a Benz mechanic and changed oil, replace oil filter. He says to change the oil and filter after 5000 miles ? is that ok !

Changed Brake pads. Everything went well.

We checked all lights and they all seem to be working. However the lamp defective message still comes on and do not know what to do....Very confusing.

Next Steps:

1. Remove the MAF sensor and clean and re-install to see if it helps.

2. If 1 does not work out, buy and replace MAF

3. Try to figure out what is wrong with PS. The rumbling noise has started to come back, no matter which way it is turned

4. A/C problem.


There use to be a thread on where to buy the cheapest MAF....I am searching but cannot find it. Would appreciate some help.

Thanks in advance
 

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2001 E320 2011 E350c
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Sorry , it has been a while. Ran into some unexpected bills so had to delay the repairs.

Took to a Benz mechanic and changed oil, replace oil filter. He says to change the oil and filter after 5000 miles ? is that ok !

Changed Brake pads. Everything went well.

We checked all lights and they all seem to be working. However the lamp defective message still comes on and do not know what to do....Very confusing.

Next Steps:

1. Remove the MAF sensor and clean and re-install to see if it helps.

2. If 1 does not work out, buy and replace MAF

3. Try to figure out what is wrong with PS. The rumbling noise has started to come back, no matter which way it is turned

4. A/C problem.


There use to be a thread on where to buy the cheapest MAF....I am searching but cannot find it. Would appreciate some help.

Thanks in advance
If you replaced some lights before did you use the correct lights/wattage? Did you check the lights on the side of the bumper? How about stepping on the brake and checking those lights? Also, the the rear brake lights could be corroded, especially the right rear one, as mine had been. It might just need to be cleaned or screwed in and out really quick.

What kind of oil did they put in? With a fleece filter (autohausaz.com) and Mobil 1 0w-40 you can go 10k.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Any mechanic recommending oil change at 5000 should be send to school or prison IMMEDIATELY.
I am running oil test on my Ford diesel at each change (at 15 quarts of oil the cost of test seems minimal) and occasionally on my 98 MB diesel, that originally was design for dino oils as well. I run 10,000 miles on Ford engine and MB FSS gives average 13,000 miles intervals.
Each time the test comes back, they tell me I can run the oil longer, however Mobil1 for some reasons gives higher iron than expected.
With MAF the best bet is an Internet dealer. Even German Star and AutohouseAz are selling generic MAFs. They do work, but this forum is strongly advising OEM
 

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1999 E55, 2001 E320, 1990 560 SEC, 2004 ML350, 2001 ML55, 1995 S500, 1998 SL500, 2010 E550 Sport zoo
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"Try to figure out what is wrong with PS. The rumbling noise has started to come back, no matter which way it is turned"

I believe on the power steering one or two things might be happening - you might have dried seals, and/or a low seepage leak in the system. The "leakage" also represents air getting into the system, and then your occasiuonal driving drives that air deep down into the steering rack.

I would check with a flashlight behind the power steering reservoir and under the car for signs of the seepage - you need to find the seepage - adress that, then go with fresh fluid and with a ML W263 type bleeing procedure to get that trapped air deep in the system back up and out.

Adding a MB addtive called Lubrisol should help with the insternal seaks (with a little more driving).

Keep the beat !
 
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