Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
1987 300SDL. 1984 300SD
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay, this is my first self oil change. I read the forums and decided on Mobile Delvac 1300 oil. I thought I had everything but when I read the Mer. service manual it says I need a special tool. I have found one on samstag but need to change oil now.

My questions are:

Is it possible to do an oil change without it once while I wait for tool?

Is it imperative to have a torque wrench?

Also, since I am 3300 miles since last oil change I bought a Napa oil filter to run 1000 miles on until my Mann filters come and to purge god knows what kind of oil the previous owner put in her. Will this non OEM filter :eek: be okay for 1000 miles?

Thank you all very much
 

·
Registered
500SE AMG, E350 4matic, GL 450
Joined
·
5,900 Posts
Not sure what tool you mean. I did not need anything special on my 300SEL. Yes, get a torque wrench. Sears ones do just fine.
 

·
Registered
1991 350 SD, 1984 500 SEC, 1982 280 SE Euro
Joined
·
48 Posts
All you need is 13mm wrench and new seal rings 1 rubber (oil filter housing) and 1 copper or aluminum (drain plug) you don't need a torque wrench just put it on snug or a little tighter and you should be fine of the napa is the right kind it will work fine
 

·
Registered
2005 W220 S500 4Matic / 2008 W211 E350 4Matic
Joined
·
997 Posts
Napa does not sell the correct filters for our cars. Get one from the dealer if you must, or wait for the right one. You will be better off changing the oil and not the filter and waiting for the right one to arrive rather than putting an inferior filter in. The cheapo filters allow the engine to run basically without oil for a few seconds while starting. NOT GOOD!
 

·
Moderator
SLK350
Joined
·
68,330 Posts
I order my stuff from Germanstar where the filter and copper rings come all together. You don't need a special tool just a 13 mm wrench and something to catch the oil once you remove the oil plug.
You can always get a vacuum oil extraction system that fits where the dipstic goes and it will suck out the oil into a catch. I have seen them sold online but I still prefer the old fashion oil change because it gives me an opportunity to check underneath the car for leaks or damages. That said get yourself a ramp set to drive your car on so you can slide under it with ease.
 

·
Registered
1987 300SDL. 1984 300SD
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. I will pick up an oil filter from the dealer tomorrow. The Napa one comes with all the seals and copper fittings and a Mercedes "specialist" told me it would be fine but I don't want any engine damage. I thought it looked like a simple job but the service manual said it required the $60 special tool #117 589 02 07 00. I'll save myself the $60, thanks.



While I had the car at the Mercedes "specialist" I had them look at a diesel leak from the injection pump. They want $575 do re-seal and steam clean the engine. Is this about right or should I go get an estimate from some other shops. Is this something that should be done in shop? I can start a new thread if need be.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
1991 420 SEL
Joined
·
52 Posts
Yeah, just need a 13mm wrench/oil filter with seals/ and the recommended oil.

1. Warm up the car. Use a ramp (Rhino from Walmart) like I did or jack stands.
2. Remove the oil filter canister bolt using 13mm wrench and take out the old filter. It's easier to access the oil filter if you remove the air filter snorkel.
3. Clean the inside of the canister and put the new oil filter and pour some oil in the filter to keep it lubricated.
4. Change the rubber seal on the oil filter cap and tighten the bolt.
5. Now get under the car and using a 13mm wrench, loosen the oil pan plug.
6. Catch the oil in a container once the plug comes off. Expect lots of oil atleast 8 quarts.
7.Put the plug back.
8. Pour oil in the crankcase.
9. Remove the ignition coil/or disconnect the CPS sensor and crank the engine 2 or 3 times till the oil pressure builds up.
10. Reconnect and start the engine. Check oil pressure and for any leaks.

That's it.
 

·
Registered
81' 300SD, 82' 300D
Joined
·
4,021 Posts
The post by gikn applies mostly to gasoline models. The advice to clean out the inside of the canister is a bit of overkill. There will always be about a quart of oil left in the engine by design, so that little bit of cleaning won't do much. The diesels don't have an air intake snorkel in the way of the oil filter canister. The advice regarding the sensor and ignition coil are not applicable in this case either.


Another tip is to replace the small rubber rings on the shaft of the oil filter canister lid, seen here.



Odds are they are brittle. Mine simply cracked off after a hit from a flathead screwdriver. Part number is 015-997-94-48, you want two.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jacques405
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
H-TownBenzoboy said:
The post by gikn applies mostly to gasoline models. The advice to clean out the inside of the canister is a bit of overkill. There will always be about a quart of oil left in the engine by design, so that little bit of cleaning won't do much. The diesels don't have an air intake snorkel in the way of the oil filter canister. The advice regarding the sensor and ignition coil are not applicable in this case either.


Another tip is to replace the small rubber rings on the shaft of the oil filter canister lid, seen here.



Odds are they are brittle. Mine simply cracked off after a hit from a flathead screwdriver. Part number is 015-997-94-48, you want two.
The rubber O-rings here are inexpensive and they well stop the oil pressure gage from bouncing, I would also suggest blowing out the the hole in the oil stem shaft pictured above.
Also as stated above I like to pour 4-5 to quarts into the oil filter housing just because the hole is easier to hit, put the filter in add 1 more quart over it
then add the last 2 quarts into the valve cover oil hole.

Get the first filter at the dealer for now then order some for the future from on-line sources, they run $8-9 Mann filter are good.

I like to run Mobil 1 15-50 in the sumer time you can find it in 5 quart containers
costing around $23-24, the big jugs make it easier to pour the old oil back in to the containers.
I run 10k oil changes with a 5k filter change in-between.

Some say you should only put in 7.5 quarts of oil, if you put in 8 it burns out.
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Jeff619 said:
Thanks for the replies. I will pick up an oil filter from the dealer tomorrow. The Napa one comes with all the seals and copper fittings and a Mercedes "specialist" told me it would be fine but I don't want any engine damage. I thought it looked like a simple job but the service manual said it required the $60 special tool #117 589 02 07 00. I'll save myself the $60, thanks.



While I had the car at the Mercedes "specialist" I had them look at a diesel leak from the injection pump. They want $575 do re-seal and steam clean the engine. Is this about right or should I go get an estimate from some other shops. Is this something that should be done in shop? I can start a new thread if need be.

Thanks
Save your money unless you plan on changing out the rear end fluid, 13mm open end or socket is all you need, make sure not to over tighten the nuts on the oil filter housing/cannister!
 

·
Registered
'85 300TD wagon
Joined
·
22 Posts
Only 6 hours and I'm done...

It was maintenance day in NorCal. A heat wave hit so it was over 100. Go figure.

First I did the brakes. They were uneventful and I had them done in about 30 minutes or so.

The oil was a different story. This was the first oil change I have done on my 300sd. There was quite a bit of oil leaking out of edges of the pan so I figured I'd do the pan gasket as well. I put the car up on the ramps and went to pull the plug and just my luck. The sucker is stripped! After messing with it for a while I finally got a pair of channel locks and pulled as I turned enough to get it out. Whoever did the last oil change didn't us the copper washer and the threads were toast. I didn't want to mess with some cheap aftermarket plug that may not fit the metric hole so I went down to the dealer and got a drain plug and washer for about $8. I probably could have got it from PartsPlus for $2, but how many times can you get out of a Benz dealer for under $10!

While I was there I asked a really cool 25+ year diesel mechanic about the torque settings on the oil pan. He said technically it is 10nm, but in 25 years he has only ever done hand tight plus 1/4 turn. I stopped off at OSH (and Jamba) on the way back to get an M12 1.5 pitch tap for the pan. Turned out I did need it, and it was the correct size, and OSH actually had it. (unlike my search for a 14mm hex wrench for the rear end)

So, after re-tapping the pan, installing the plug (with washer), lubing the gasket and hand tight+ 1/4 turning the pan bolts, I poured 1.5 gallons of 10w40 AMSOIL in the filter housing. After that I put in the new filter, started her up, and topped off the oil. I think I'll save the tranny fluid for another day.

I think I will get a complete set of metric tools now rather than piece by piece. Father's day is coming up...
 

·
Registered
1984 380 SE Lapis Blue with dark tan leather interior
Joined
·
49 Posts
Short of hard driving, isn't the use of the expensive oils unnecessary given that most of us change our oil religiously anyway? My MB mechanic says to not waste my money on such oils as long as I faithfully change the oil by 3,000 miles. I'm sure the AMSOIL's of the world are fine products and would be ideal for hard driving or for long intervals b/w oil changes, but the dino stuff seems just fine for every 3,000 miles. Is my mechanic missing something?
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top