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'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
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I'm gonna try to help out here with the SLS, which btw if working is outstanding in the ride department. I did mine last year so some of this is from memory. The 1st pic is the basic layout (though from a different model so pump and tank are different), 2nd pic is of the accumulators and the bad strut from my car, 3rd,is SLS valve, 4th is adjuster on the sway bar

First, check for any leaks, if none this is how you adjust the rear ride height and to make sure the SLS is working. Find the valve, it will be attached to the rear sway bar (in the pic hoses 23, 26, and 44 attach to it), disconnect it's adjuster from the bar on the valve, the valve's bar should be horizontal. With the engine running move the bar on the valve up to about 45 degrees, car should rise, move the bar down to 45 degrees, car should drop to about where it was initially. Let me say here that my understanding of the system is that the springs are what carry the load of the car and the SLS keeps the car level and dampens the road shocks while driving. Find the hole on the valve body that lines up with the valve bar and insert the correct size drill bit or some sort of rod the same size (can't recall the size at the moment) then using the adjuster on the sway bar, adjust if needed, don't forget to remove the drill bit or rod afterwards
SLS.jpg

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SLS valve.jpg

IMG_3309.jpg


I hope this helps you or at least your shop guy so you can convey to him the system if he's not familiar to it (and so he can't BS his way to more of your cash, knowledge is power ;) )
 

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1987 Euro 500SEC & 1988 Euro R107 420SL
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Discussion Starter #42
I'm gonna try to help out here with the SLS, which btw if working is outstanding in the ride department. I did mine last year so some of this is from memory. The 1st pic is the basic layout (though from a different model so pump and tank are different), 2nd pic is of the accumulators and the bad strut from my car, 3rd,is SLS valve, 4th is adjuster on the sway bar

First, check for any leaks, if none this is how you adjust the rear ride height and to make sure the SLS is working. Find the valve, it will be attached to the rear sway bar (in the pic hoses 23, 26, and 44 attach to it), disconnect it's adjuster from the bar on the valve, the valve's bar should be horizontal. With the engine running move the bar on the valve up to about 45 degrees, car should rise, move the bar down to 45 degrees, car should drop to about where it was initially. Let me say here that my understanding of the system is that the springs are what carry the load of the car and the SLS keeps the car level and dampens the road shocks while driving. Find the hole on the valve body that lines up with the valve bar and insert the correct size drill bit or some sort of rod the same size (can't recall the size at the moment) then using the adjuster on the sway bar, adjust if needed, don't forget to remove the drill bit or rod afterwards
View attachment 2651306
View attachment 2651307
View attachment 2651308
View attachment 2651309

I hope this helps you or at least your shop guy so you can convey to him the system if he's not familiar to it (and so he can't BS his way to more of your cash, knowledge is power ;) )
Hello Wooky

Another very helpful information you share here, Thank you!. The SLS rear strut already checked by the shop and no leak. Accumulator also looks fine. Btw how to share a small video clip file here? I want to share how the rear wheels bobbing soft on the toll road. It does not look normal, like a car with broken strut and only the springs work. When I pushed the rear side body, the suspension compressed softly and easily. The front barely moved down when I pushed it down. I noticed my front Bilstein strut has different part number than the normal OEM B4 or B6 strut. Maybe the previous owner changed it with the hard one for other car spec.

With no leak on the rear strut, is it possible that the strut not working normal, maybe like a leaking the strut seal inside the unit? Any idea how to test it if its still working properly? or maybe with adjust the height like your instruction and see if its respond or not.
 

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1987 Euro 500SEC & 1988 Euro R107 420SL
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Discussion Starter #45
Let me try to post the link from youtube to show how the rear wheels bobbing. Please tell me is that normal or not, Thank you

 

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1986/1990 W126
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Yes working now. Looks like your car indeed has no shock absorption. Be careful, could be dangerous. So I guess your struts are faulty or at least the one on the side shown.
 
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Discussion Starter #49
Yes working now. Looks like your car indeed has no shock absorption. Be careful, could be dangerous. So I guess your struts are faulty or at least the one on the side shown.
Yes Ian, once I saw this small video clip from my friend, I knew something was wrong with the rear strut.

I will try to get the remanufacture unit soon if I can get it.
 

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1986/1990 W126
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Good idea. Gorgeous car. I like the ride height fine as it is actually. It looks classic. But the height changes the looks quite dramatically so its all about personal preference, and the roads the car needs to be driven on.
 
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2007 CLS63 AMG
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'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
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Yes Ian, once I saw this small video clip from my friend, I knew something was wrong with the rear strut.

I will try to get the remanufacture unit soon if I can get it.
Yeah, your ride does need something in the SLS department. I'm wondering . . . . and others can chime in too, if there are no leaks could it also be from "flat" spheres. I know mine had a harsh ride when hitting bumps and she did do quite a bit of bouncing at times. Maybe a suggestion of replacing the spheres first since JSS has no leaks

Doing the work myself is the main reason I did an almost complete overhaul of my SLS, leaky strut replaced with another one sourced for the right side, both spheres replaced (don't forget to install NEW copper washers), and overhauled the pump (clean as a whistle inside) with new seal and O-rings
 
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Discussion Starter #53
Hi Wooky

The ride is not harsh for the rear, going over speed traps also fine, it just a soft weavy ride for the rear. Only the front felt a bit hard but not excessive. The front Bilstein shock has different part number from the B4 or B6 OEM spec Bilstein. The sphere (accumulators) had been check and no leaking. Maybe something inside it or the strut is faulty.

Wooky, if you have the sphere part number, please share it. I already check the SLS strut shape exactly the same with 560sec gen 2 SLS Strut. So I think the sphere suppose to be the same items too with 560SEC gen 2

Thank you Wooky
 

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1991 500SEC 55K mi. 1987 560SEC Now 153K mi. 2020
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Where did you find the black wheels with the polished rims? I've been looking for months and months for them,19", for my 2007 CLS63 AMG. Anyone know of a source?
Those wheels are Pre-Merger AMG circa 1988-ish and were refurbished with the gloss black centers, just exactly what I was looking for when offered for sale.

I am sorry I cannot be of more assistance in your wheel quest..

MBL
 

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The sphere part number and maker is Cortego 123 320 02 15, I got these from one of my preferred vendors. I'm still not sure what you mean by a "soft weavy ride". The sphere has a charged bladder inside (similar to the tank on a water well system to hold line pressure) that may be going flat or one of yours is flat. Are you sure the pump is running, you can pull the return line from the tank into a bottle or cup and run the engine just long enough to check for flow.
 
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Discussion Starter #56
The sphere part number and maker is Cortego 123 320 02 15, I got these from one of my preferred vendors. I'm still not sure what you mean by a "soft weavy ride". The sphere has a charged bladder inside (similar to the tank on a water well system to hold line pressure) that may be going flat or one of yours is flat. Are you sure the pump is running, you can pull the return line from the tank into a bottle or cup and run the engine just long enough to check for flow.
Hi Wooky

The workshop will do the test soon for the sphere and the SLS system, will open the Sphere and check if it still in good condition or not. Anyway I will buy the sphere for spare. Btw is the pic part in the plastic container for adjust the SLS system? If so where did you buy it?
 

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The only test I know of for the spheres is by disconnecting the hose to the sphere and inserting a rod or pencil to see how far in it will go, and inch or two it's good but 5 or 6 inches it's flat (bad). If your shop is going to be doing the work, let them check it out and let us know here what they find wrong, we can then go from there. Any adjustment is done at the valve that's hooked to the rear sway bar
 
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Discussion Starter #58
The only test I know of for the spheres is by disconnecting the hose to the sphere and inserting a rod or pencil to see how far in it will go, and inch or two it's good but 5 or 6 inches it's flat (bad). If your shop is going to be doing the work, let them check it out and let us know here what they find wrong, we can then go from there. Any adjustment is done at the valve that's hooked to the rear sway bar
Hi Wooky

Sure I will update the result in here once the test is done. I just found out a few days ago, there were some red gearbox oil mark and also some brown engine oil mark on my garage floor. There are some leakage. Need to fix this problem soon. The car is in the workshop right now and I miss it already
 

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Red oil is the transmission fluid meaning a leak somewhere on it, the lines up to and back from the bottom of the radiator, or the fittings leaking. Brown is likely an engine leak. The hydro-oil for the SLS should be clear, look at it's tank, some discolor is ok but at the least do a filter and fluid change on it. SLS fluid change is simple, take the return fitting from top of the tank into an empty bottle, I used a clear vinyl hose to reach and not make a mess. Run the engine while watching down in the SLS tank, as it gets near the bottom pour new oil in and keep doing that until what comes out the return line is clear DON'T let the tank run dry or you risk burning the pump up, SLS hydro-oil also lubes the pump. Reconnect the return line

These cars are relatively easy to work on as long as you know how it's put together, if it weren't for these guys here, and now I get the privilege of paying it forward, I would likely have given up on doing anything beyond oil and filter changes but I've been a wrench turner all my life. The pic here is my son's 1954 Cadillac that he is now doing a complete restoration on, I help him when I go down there or over the phone
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