[mortenso]

Here are a few fresh shots of the new setup after lowering.

- H&R Cup kit, #4 pad front and #4 pad rear.
- K-mac camber kits
- Eibach anti-roll kit (front + rear sway bars)
- Blacked out window trim

New pojector headlights and clear glass blinkers are installed in a week or two. I am still undecided about the exhaust.

 

[mortenso]

more pics

 

[mortenso]

some more

 

[Phade]

very clean looken..

 

[JayP784]

Nice. Very Clean. I think those are the clearest headlight lenses on a clk I have seen in a while. How do you keep them like that? I clean, buff, etc my lenses all the time and the yellow oxidation always eventually comes back... I am tempted to buy new ones but that is a little pricey.

 

[mortenso]

Last year I buffed my lenses with a plastic headlight restoration kit from ads. I also always keep the car garaged so it is never parked outsid in the sun.


Here are the steps:

Restore the clarity of your headlights or taillights. Designed to repair heavily damaged plastic lenses that have turned cloudy yellow

1) Pre-wash or clean headlight area of vehicle.
2) Apply any type of masking tape to area around headlight.
3) Pre soak sand paper in a bucket of soap water for 10-15 minutes.
4) Take any type of empty spray container and fill with soap water.
5) Wrap sand paper around black rubber sanding pad. Spray soap water on headlight and sand area with sand paper keeping sand paper lubricated while sanding.
6) Dry headlight.
7) Attach backing plate to electric or cordless drill.
8) Attach wool-buffing pad to backing plate.
9) Use #85 with wool pad and buff out sanding marks using small brush in between application to clean pads.
10) Repeat same procedure with yellow foam pad and Plastx.
11) Wipe down headlight area and remove tape.

 

[deyainrdy4ds]

i have to agree...ur car just looks mad clean....ur drop still has some nice settlin to do too

 

[beno]

It's so clean it still looks wet!!! What size are your tires?????

The lowering looks great also.

 

[JOE55]

you might wanna change your username to Mr. Clean:thumbsup:

 

[lowphat]

Black is beautiful

 

[mortenso]

Thanks for the comments. Ride height is changing all the time after the drop. It goes from perfect to too high. Probably need to give it two weeks before it settles.

I am running Lorinsers setup:
19x8,5 ET31 225/35
19x9,5 ET31 255/30

 

[Deltasonik]

Hey Mortenso.. I just saw this post, the car looks great! Did you use the Kmac kit for the front and the rear? Also where did you but the kit and did you do the install yourself?

 

[mortenso]

Hey Deltasonik, the complete install took 10 hours. I did it together with a mechanic. I have both the front and rear kmac camber kits. We only installed the rear kit, the front was more of a challenge so I am doing that in a couple of weeks. We had to use a bench to extract the stock rear bushings. We used a simple press to put in the new kmac bushings. The front kit is pretty hard to install, the bushings are 3 times bigger than the rear. It is a challenge to get the stock bushings out and the new kmac bushings inn I bought the kit from australia, kmac.com. Delivery takes 2 to 3 days to most overseas destinations. Excellent customer service and ultrafast shipping:thumbsup:

I installed both the front and rear sway bars myself. Front sway bar was really easy. Just remove the old one and put in the new eibach sway bar, it is 4 screws total Rear sway bar was a real bitch to get out. We had to drop the rear axel maybe 30cm, we also had to disconnect the lead to the fuel pump. This enabled me to wiggle the rear sway bar out. I was also able to wiggle in the new eibach rear sway bar. It was a extremely tight fit.

 

[rlwatson]

Hey Deltasonik, the complete install took 10 hours. I did it together with a mechanic. I have both the front and rear kmac camber kits. We only installed the rear kit, the front was more of a challenge so I am doing that in a couple of weeks. We had to use a bench to extract the stock rear bushings. We used a simple press to put in the new kmac bushings. The front kit is pretty hard to install, the bushings are 3 times bigger than the rear. It is a challenge to get the stock bushings out and the new kmac bushings inn I bought the kit from australia, kmac.com. Delivery takes 2 to 3 days to most overseas destinations. Excellent customer service and ultrafast shipping:thumbsup:

I installed both the front and rear sway bars myself. Front sway bar was really easy. Just remove the old one and put in the new eibach sway bar, it is 4 screws total Rear sway bar was a real bitch to get out. We had to drop the rear axel maybe 30cm, we also had to disconnect the lead to the fuel pump. This enabled me to wiggle the rear sway bar out. I was also able to wiggle in the new eibach rear sway bar. It was a extremely tight fit.

Hey Mortenso...I just went to Discount Tire today and priced the exact same wheels that you have...However, they recommended that I go witht the following tires: 235/35 on 19x8.5 and for rear, 265/35 on 19x9.5. What do you think? Am I going to have any rubbing problems? Also, I was planning to lower my Satin (That's what I call her) using the H&R Sport Kit. What about all the other stuff that you have done (shocks, sway bar, camber kit)....is that all necessary, or highly recommended? I need as much advice as you have time to give. Thanks.....

 

[bs00clk]

Hey Mortenso...I just went to Discount Tire today and priced the exact same wheels that you have...However, they recommended that I go witht the following tires: 235/35 on 19x8.5 and for rear, 265/35 on 19x9.5. What do you think? Am I going to have any rubbing problems? Also, I was planning to lower my Satin (That's what I call her) using the H&R Sport Kit. What about all the other stuff that you have done (shocks, sway bar, camber kit)....is that all necessary, or highly recommended? I need as much advice as you have time to give. Thanks.....

rlwatson: I have the same setup that Discount is suggesting (got mine from discount, too). No problems at all and I have made no suspension or other mods but I know others that have lowered with no problems...do a search, you'll find lots of info. Good luck.

 

[rlwatson]

Thanks BS00CLK......One think I might do to cut a little cost is go with 265/30 on the rears. That way, I can go with a less expensive tire, i.e. Goodyears F1 GS-DS3 instead of Michelin Pilot Sport PS2. Has any one tried these two tires? Any comments on their performance? Also, how about road noise......with my cabrio, that's important too.

 

[mortenso]

Hey Mortenso...I just went to Discount Tire today and priced the exact same wheels that you have...However, they recommended that I go witht the following tires: 235/35 on 19x8.5 and for rear, 265/35 on 19x9.5. What do you think? Am I going to have any rubbing problems? Also, I was planning to lower my Satin (That's what I call her) using the H&R Sport Kit. What about all the other stuff that you have done (shocks, sway bar, camber kit)....is that all necessary, or highly recommended? I need as much advice as you have time to give. Thanks.....

Hey rlwatson... You should get front and rear camber kits if you plan to lower your ride, they prevents premature tire wear. Always get both shocks and springs. The sway bars completes the package and give you a stiff and sporty ride. The car handles like a dream through sharp turns at high speeds with the sway bars At a minimum you should get shocks and springs.

What offset are the wheels from Discount Tire, ET38? My wheels rubbed on the inside in front without the 7mm spacers (225/35 and ET38).

I went with the recommenden setup from Lorinser because I needed a Tüv certificate to make it street legal. Lorinser also have a Tüv certificate for the 235/265 combo but it is with offset ET26 front and rear. This requires a lot of bodywork especially to the front fenders.

If you don't need a Tüv certificate 235/35 ET32-35 front and 265/30 ET30-35 rear will work fine Inner clearance don't meet safety standards but who cares.

I would recommende the 225/255 setup, it is really nice to drive. Last year I ran the 245/275 combo and the car handled like shit.

 

[rlwatson]

Hey Mortenso......Well, I don't know what a Tüv certificate is and Discount Tire didn't say anything about it, so I guess I don't need it. Also, I don't know what the offsets are either, but I'll find out. With your tire/wheel combination, are the side wall of your 255s flush with the rim or is the rim? If not, how does that look?

 

[mortenso]

Tüv certificates only carries value in European countries. It is an official approval by a German government agency. If something is not approved it is not "legal" to use.

I think the 225/255 combo looks good. The Dunlop Sport Maxx tires have a protective edge that extend outside the rime which protects it from potential damage. The side wall round off nicely and prevents any rubbing. You can see the tire profile from my pictures. The 235/255 combo would have a more square profile and the potential for rubbing is thus larger.
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I must add that with the cup kit there is absolutely no rubbing whatsoever. Even when I drive on ruff roads and over pot holes there are no rubbing. This tires size is quite new so there are not many tire brands offering it. I think this is the reason why nobody at the moment is using this setup for 19".

 

[CLK MAN]

I remember you....did you ever end up rolling the fenders a little more or did you just get rid of the spacers.