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Hi,

1a) Don't do anything other than drive it how you always will, they only need to reset themselves after Battery has gone flat, been disconnected, or an ME ECU reset done, the ME will do this all automatically over the next few drives :wink

1) Good luck with that one, I'll be no help at all there, I'm useless when it comes to configuring new software or doing updates, I'm the "one" who it all goes pear shaped on :laugh

2) SDS will code that out, procedure is in Encyclopaedia, I've never personally done one :wink

3) Easy, but you have to take off whole mirror cover, tilt glass up, clip is under lower edge, nearest window, when released the cover slides off outwards :wink

4) I suggest give MB your vin and get one mech key first, see if it fits your locks, if it does and they all work, get another mech key, it is a whole heap of work changing all lock barrels, unless you really have to :wink

5) Yep :grin

6) Now it's running, take car to a decent Indie MB Locksmith, key from MB may not work and they get you to pay up front for it, with no Guarantees :frown .......... UK Cost £360 MB, vs £180 Locksmith :wink Never had a KG go card done, but same source recommendation applies :wink

7 & 9) Get a recommendation from someone here for a good tyre and alignment shop near you, there are some awful ones about in all countries :wink

8 & 10) Yep, some good advice on forum, but as you've just done the Trans successfully, I'm sure you are more than capable :wink

Filling these Tranny's is always a sod, because once you have poured fluid down the tube, it sticks to the tube and gives a falsely high reading on the dipstick, I just leave them idling after the initial 6 litres, I go up in 200ml increments, but after each pour I insert / remove / wipe / re insert dipstick 5 - 6 times before even looking at it for a reading.
Warm Tranny is easier because the fluid rolls away down the tube quicker :wink

Don't even think about that swarf any more, just forget it :wink

HTH, and keep us all posted how your getting on :smile

Cheers Dave
 

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"3) Easy, but you have to take off whole mirror cover, tilt glass up, clip is under lower edge, nearest window, when released the cover slides off outwards"

The clip to release the mirror cover is in one of two locations, depending upon the model year. If I remember correctly (not a given at my age!), one location is near the inner end on the bottom, the other is near the outer end at the top. Searching the W220 Forum for "mirror cover removal" might help ("Advanced Search", then "W220").
 

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The clip to release the mirror cover is in one of two locations, depending upon the model year. If I remember correctly (not a given at my age!), one location is near the inner end on the bottom, the other is near the outer end at the top. Searching the W220 Forum for "mirror cover removal" might help ("Advanced Search", then "W220").
Hi,

OK, I stand corrected :wink , the only ones I've seen have been Inner Lower.

So, if you can't find it there, look "Upper Outer" :wink

Thanks for clearing that up Wally :wink

Cheers Dave
 

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Fantastic write ups ! These docs should be placed in the sticky!

Dave you have your first mod duty !!
Hi,

2nd Mod duty actually :grin

I have linked to it in Encyclopaedia, post #13, right after "Troubleshooting Transmission" :wink

Cheers Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I am back with a little update on a car.

1A) - all monitors are in "ON" stage and I plan to go and do the smog check next few days.
1) Xentry on Dell 6420 - This is still work in progress :)
2) Still have the SOS button lighted up, but I have found the R button, that hides that message. But still want it gone.
3) I have almost fixed my blinker. Part of it is working, other part - does not. Some foil tracks are bad. If I have too muck spare time and nothing to do - will have to re-do the fix.
4) I have called the dealer about the price of a replacement mechanical key and guess what - they did not call me back. What a surprise :))

Have not had a chance to work on any other issues yet.

New transmission works ok. I can feel little jerk when it downshifts 2nd to 1st gear. I still need to drive more to get a better feel of the vehicle.

I have dropped the pan off my old transmission and found some surprises. Transmission oil filter was laying loose on the bottom of the pan. ATF was dark. It does not seem that it was a proper atf. There was NO magnet in the pan. There are signs of oil leaks on few areas with seals: shifter lever, around the pan, around the rear transmission seal where shaft connects. I am not even sure if I should keep any of the parts from that transmission. What you guys think?

At first I thought that I have made a mistake by rushing into replacing transmission, but now I do not think so. I am planning on replacing ATF in my new transmission in about 1k miles. Hopefully it will work better after that. There are no any error codes in the TCM, which is kind of a good sign.

The bottom line: I love the car!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #68
P.S. Dave, thank you for including the write-up into Encyclopedia :) Feel honored to contribute to this forum :)
 

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New transmission works ok. I can feel little jerk when it downshifts 2nd to 1st gear. I still need to drive more to get a better feel of the vehicle.
Hi,

That 2 - 1 bump is an indication of a bad Sprag (One Way Clutch), and I expect that is what the metal swarf was in the Pan........

The 722.6 suffers from this problem, but the good news is they go on for years like it :wink

And yeah, once you've driven one of these cars for a while we all fall in love with them :wink

Cheers Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Dave,
I would really prefer the tranny not to do that bump, but I do not want to remove and install transmission once again even more :) Looks like I will just live with it. Do you thing I should save anything from an old tranny?

Latest update:
1) I finally cleared almost all the error codes from the car. The one that is left is a light-up SOS button and message that TeleAid/SOS has a malfunction. Interesting thing is that TeleAid is set to NOT PRESENT in DAS.
2) I have already tried few OS images with DAS/XENTRY. When I am in Xentry itself - status indicator is green, but as soon as I start DAS - status indicator goes red. Will have to keep digging.
3) I have removed all wheels and examined suspension. Apparently I have Bilstein shocks at the front and still original and tired shocks on the back. Cover boot is slightly torn on the driver side upper control arm, but not bad yet. The boot on the ball joint of the lower passenger control arm is torn. Have anyone installed parts from rockauto? Are they any good? Price for control arm is $50-60 there.
4) Cleaned up aged "soft plastic" goo remains from the headlights switch. Looks better now.
5) New problem - moisture inside right headlight :(
6) New problem #2 - Rear right tire has about 1mm left to the wear mark, rear right has about 2mm. Have anyone used Sumitomo HTR Z II?
7) Got a quote from dealer for a new key: mechanical key $67, new smart key $202. Will start with the mechanical first.
 

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Hi,

Unless you are a Transmission Specialist, capable of completely stripping and re building an Auto Box, with all the specialist tools needed, then no, either bin it or sell it to a local Tranny Specialist as a core unit for $25 - $50 :wink

1) Tele Aid itself may be set to not present, but here's where SDS Experience comes in, it will probably be set to present in other modules, such as Dash Cluster, COMAND, maybe EIS maybe other stuff, which will of course send out the error message across CAN Bus :wink

It needs to be disabled in every Module that it appears. Be very careful when altering settings in Dash Cluster, as it has loads of options, and it is very easy to screw it up, although that is reversible, and is exactly how I learned, with a lot of trial and errors until i got it spot on :grin Don't meddle too much in EIS, but there is not a huge list of stuff to code on and off, so fairly simple :wink

3) With Suspension Parts, if you are selling the Car within a year fit cheapies, if you are keeping it 2 years or more only fit OEM, or Lemfoerder, or Febi Bilstein bits, if you shop around, Febi and Lem are not much dearer than the cheapo's :wink

5) Remove Bulb Covers from headlight, and put a "Hair Dryer" on low heat so it is blowing in the back of the light for a few hours, that will dry it out, but if it persists you may have to remove the light, and make sure all parts including lens are well sealed :wink

7) $202 for a new "Smart Key" sounds hellish cheap to me, in UK they are £380 ish, ............ assuming it works of course, (which they won't guarantee for various reasons) :wink

HTH,

Cheers Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Hi,

Unless you are a Transmission Specialist, capable of completely stripping and re building an Auto Box, with all the specialist tools needed, then no, either bin it or sell it to a local Tranny Specialist as a core unit for $25 - $50 :wink

No, IO am NOT even close to be a transmission specialist :) Even a thought of all the disks and tidbits gives me chills :))


1) Tele Aid itself may be set to not present, but here's where SDS Experience comes in, it will probably be set to present in other modules, such as Dash Cluster, COMAND, maybe EIS maybe other stuff, which will of course send out the error message across CAN Bus :wink

It needs to be disabled in every Module that it appears. Be very careful when altering settings in Dash Cluster, as it has loads of options, and it is very easy to screw it up, although that is reversible, and is exactly how I learned, with a lot of trial and errors until i got it spot on :grin Don't meddle too much in EIS, but there is not a huge list of stuff to code on and off, so fairly simple :wink

Well, I am still fighting in trying to make my C3 work with DAS to further dive into the comfiguration

3) With Suspension Parts, if you are selling the Car within a year fit cheapies, if you are keeping it 2 years or more only fit OEM, or Lemfoerder, or Febi Bilstein bits, if you shop around, Febi and Lem are not much dearer than the cheapo's :wink

I am not planning to sell it anytime soon, so I will shop around :)

5) Remove Bulb Covers from headlight, and put a "Hair Dryer" on low heat so it is blowing in the back of the light for a few hours, that will dry it out, but if it persists you may have to remove the light, and make sure all parts including lens are well sealed :wink

It seems that I will have to remove the headlight, dry it and seal it right away.

7) $202 for a new "Smart Key" sounds hellish cheap to me, in UK they are £380 ish, ............ assuming it works of course, (which they won't guarantee for various reasons) :wink

I have ordered mechanical key first, as I was missing one. Hopefully it will arrive today

Other than that - I love the drive :)
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Small update on the car:

1) Got the mechanical key. $72

2) Apparently I had front lower support ball joint that was bad, and not the control arm. Replaced with a Lemforder ball joint. I have rented the ball joint tool from O'Reilly and it is not a proper size. Had to ask a friend to install at his shop. So this job definitely requires a proper tool.

3) Biggest disappointment. My rear shocks inside struts were bad. On small potholes or uneven pavement I would feel how rear of the car is drifting. I have ordered 2 re-manufactured struts from eBay. The saying: you get what you pay for is totally correct :( One of the struts has permanent solenoid error. Car drives as if the rear is in the most firm mode :((( One word: junk :(
 

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Biggest disappointment. My rear shocks inside struts were bad. On small potholes or uneven pavement I would feel how rear of the car is drifting. I have ordered 2 re-manufactured struts from eBay. The saying: you get what you pay for is totally correct :( One of the struts has permanent solenoid error. Car drives as if the rear is in the most firm mode :((( One word: junk :(
Hi,

I agree totally ........

We tried all this cheap sh!te on Fleet Vehicles a few years ago, and even if it does work OK out of the box, it does nowhere close to the same Mileage as genuine MB :wink

Fair enough, consumables like "Fram" Filters, "Mintex" Brakes, "Bosch" Wiper Blades etc etc are cheap as chips, and worth changing regular, but anything else, I'm afraid, for me it has to be genuine now .......... I get a good discount from MB and the grief of cheap parts is not worth the hassle :wink

Here's an example :-

Motor Factors "Premier" Wheel Bearing for a Vito, " £18.00, It's The Dearest One we Do, Sir" :laugh ......... 3000 miles and it's as bad as the one that came off .........

MB Genuine Bearing, £22.00 ........ Lasts at least 180,000 Miles ........ I Rest My Case :laugh

I am also against the Arnott struts now, as I recently learned, (for example), that all they do to an Airmatic strut is replace the Airbag............ So a "Rebuilt Strut" is not "Rebuilt" at all, it is "Repaired" :rolleyes:

Cheers Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Hi, Dave
That is exactly what I am afraid. That they will replace just the air bag and that's it.

What do you think about "new" Arnotts?
 

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Hi,

I have no personal experience of their products, because freight costs to UK make them prohibitive when compared to genuine MB (with my discount)...........

I looked into Arnott ABC Struts late last year for a customer with a CL 500, and with P+P, Customs Charges, VAT etc, they were way dearer than my local MB Dealer :wink

My statements above, (re Arnott "Rebuilt" Struts) are related to an article I read on this Forum today, which is saying that Airmatic Struts will no longer be available, as all the core units are old now, and have other problems aside from just the Airbags, and all these struts have fitted is new Airbags..........
Hence my comment above, they are Repaired, not Rebuilt :wink

If "new" really is "new", and you live within reasonable postage charge distance, then with a "Lifetime Guarantee", I'd imagine they are good value, perhaps the consideration of "if you have to pay Garage Labour Charges" for R&I should be included, as if you need a defective Strut R&I'd it will cost you personally ..........

I imagine, like all parts, Labour etc charges are not covered by their Warranty :wink

Cheers Dave
 
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