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2008 AMG E63 89,000 Miles
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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone recently purchase new rotors for their w 210? I'm looking for recent purchase history, where you bought 'em, if you like what you got or if you would have got something else, etc. I'm looking at some on fleabay or thru a retailer like BMAparts.com or Autohausz.
 

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03 E320 4M Wagon & 97 E320
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Anyone recently purchase new rotors for their w 210? I'm looking for recent purchase history, where you bought 'em, if you like what you got or if you would have got something else, etc. I'm looking at some on fleabay or thru a retailer like BMAparts.com or Autohausz.
I recently bought some from BMAparts.com. They are Meyle brand and for $28 each (rear). So far so good. I noticed the price is a couple dollars more now.
 

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2008 AMG E63 89,000 Miles
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Discussion Starter #3
That brings up a point, I checked my rears, they look fine. also the pads do not need replaced, plenty of wear left. I have 103k on my car. when/how did you determine you needed new rotors for the rear?
My fronts have a 'lip' on the outer edge and inner edge, from where the old pad wore down the disc. I put on new pads, like a retard, without rotors and realized that i need new rotors.
 

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W210.265/2001, W220/S500/2000, Porsche 997 C2S/2006, GMC K1500/1992
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Look closely where your pad contacted with the rotor. you will find the wear marks on the surface. Pick a few spots and measure its thickness, average those readings and compare with the standard new spec. of your rotor. The out and inner edge is the new rotor thickness. I do not have your car's spec. e.g. W210.265/2001 front New: 28mm, service limit: 25.4mm. that means anytime less than 25.4mm, throw away and replace. Total thickness for service life is 2.6mm. Rear:New 12mm Limit:9.8mm, 2.2mm for wearing. That means if you have more than 3mm between your out edge and the worn area, you may need new disc. Best is get your own car spec. Check Google or your dealer's parts department. They will have those data.
 

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03 E320 4M Wagon & 97 E320
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In my case, the rear rotors were warped (pulsation when applying breaks). The rear rotors are considerably thinner so they are more prone to warp.

As correctly stated by daisound that the rear rotors have only 2.2 mm of wearable thickness. That means there is only about 1 mm of wearable thickness on each side (there are two sides/pads).
 

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FYI, do not measure thickness by side, measure the total thickness with a caliber. Your warped rear rotor must be 'turned" by indies know nothing about MB brake rotor. Do not let anyone turn your rotors, front or rear. If the total thickness is less than service limit, replace with new one.
 

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Since MB use single piston calipers on E class, the wearing on the inside and outside will not be even. Some MB models is using 2 or 4 pistons calipers, that will get you more even wearing on the inside or outside of the rotors. e.g. Front calipers of S class
 

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I just replaced the rear rotors and pads on the 99 W210 (and the fronts on our 05 W211). Purchased the rotors from autohauzaz. I've been happy with them so far. They've got good prices, OE parts and typically free shipping - at least for parts orders over $50 - and when do you ever have a parts order for a Mercedes under $50? ;)
 

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FYI, do not measure thickness by side, measure the total thickness with a caliber. Your warped rear rotor must be 'turned" by indies know nothing about MB brake rotor. Do not let anyone turn your rotors, front or rear. If the total thickness is less than service limit, replace with new one.
Right, no one turned my rotors. They got warped in a winter car wash.

I was more responding to your "more than 3mm between your out edge and the worn area" comment. 3 mm would have already be below spec.

In WIS, there is an article titled "Brake shudder in cold state". It is rather common for us who live in frigid states to have this type of problems. If a car with hot brake rotors enter a car wash in winter, the rotors could get warped or run out.

The W210 rear rotors and even more so the W211 rear rotors are prone to warp. On the April 18th edition of Cartalk there was a W211 owner calling n for brake shudder.
 

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2008 AMG E63 89,000 Miles
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Discussion Starter #10
Great info guys. thanks so much. I have a Service Manual CD that i'll see if it notates the clearances. I feel hardly any wear on the rears, but as you stated, 2.2mm is not very much.
Even though I have a service manual on CD, it doesn't take place of the advice and help that is on this forum, I make it a habit to ask before i do anything. Cas in point, I mixed some green antifreeze w/ the orange a few months back without even thinking to ask. :crybaby2:

One new waterpump and 7 hours of labor later, I learned my lesson.:thumbsup:
 

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Great info guys. thanks so much. I have a Service Manual CD that i'll see if it notates the clearances. I feel hardly any wear on the rears, but as you stated, 2.2mm is not very much.
Even though I have a service manual on CD, it doesn't take place of the advice and help that is on this forum, I make it a habit to ask before i do anything. Cas in point, I mixed some green antifreeze w/ the orange a few months back without even thinking to ask. :crybaby2:

One new waterpump and 7 hours of labor later, I learned my lesson.:thumbsup:
The water pump on your car is PIA. :mad: Do you have any tips? How did you access these two lower Allen bolts?

I have not done on M104 (I also have a 1997 E320). It looks it is easier than the older M103 engines. You move the power steering pump a side and then just use some long flexible extensions, right?
 

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2008 AMG E63 89,000 Miles
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Discussion Starter #12
I'm still looking for reply's on rotors, so not to hijack the thread i'll answer your q:

to be honest, if you take your time and have the right tools, you'll be ok on the 97 e320 water pump. I did it in my fathers garage(he has all tools known to man). He had every metric allen wrench configuration extentsion mirrors, and ratchets that work with allens. In my own workshop and without a 2nd set of hands, i could not have done it. for the bottom two, we used a mirror and an allen that had the L part cut off, so it was just a straight rod. We first put it on the head of the allen bolt, then put a socket and wrench on the allen,worked like a charm. On the front one, i did have to use an universal as I had to angle the wrench. That was tricky, as to not strip out the allen. I also changed out both of my idler pulleys while I was in there. I spent a few hours reading the forum and made friends witha mechanic in Atlanta that sent me step by step instrucitons, i'll pm the message to you. He is a life saver, thanks John!
 

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I will not buy MB parts from E bay unless they are MB dealer's representative. I bought a V60 BT puck from e bay because it is from MB authorized dealer with warranty for $230. If the seller is one of the authorized dealer for the brand of the rotor you want with warranty, then it worth to try.
 

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Thanks for the PM.

Personally, I do not use cross drilled/slotted rotors. They sure look kind good if you have lots of space in your wheels. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I will not buy MB parts from E bay unless they are MB dealer's representative. I bought a V60 BT puck from e bay because it is from MB authorized dealer with warranty for $230. If the seller is one of the authorized dealer for the brand of the rotor you want with warranty, then it worth to try.
thanks for the tip. i'm a sucker for ebay. At that price point, is why I thought they may be worth a shot, I'll ask the question about being an authroized dealer for that brand.

You can get 4 for $100 on fleabay...but who knows if they'll melt into a heap of iron lava on the first hard braking....:D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Personally, I do not use cross drilled/slotted rotors. They sure look kind good if you have lots of space in your wheels. :D
I have 17's from a e500. It would look very cool, but if the rotors are crap its not worth it. Tires are way overpriced and I sacrificed my soft e320 ride. Would not recommend doing it if I had to do it all over again.
 

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I'm with dais. I won't buy critical parts on ebay unless I know the seller and know the parts they are selling. In this case it fails on both counts. Sounds like an aftermarket rotor, and if I went aftermarket I'd be going upscale, not unknown.

Be aware: Drilled rotors are NOT as strong as solid rotors and are more likely to crack or break if stressed (and with an unknown rotor...is that more likely already?). I have drilled Brembos on my car now, for precisely the reason Lou notes: they can easily be seen through the wheels and they look great.

Be further aware: slotted rotors will shorten pad life.

MB overengineered the 210 brakes, so you can't really improve on them easily -- or cheaply. Unless you simply have to have the look, stick with the OEM from autohausaz, mercedesparts.com, etc. Or if you have to have drilled, at least go with a brand name. (I think importec sells the zimmermans drilled for $120 each for the front.) I'd hate to see you with a broken-down car (or worse) because you "saved" a couple hundred dollars on ebay rotors that "looked cool".

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well said. i'm hoping BMA parts will give me a good deal on drilled zimmermans. I drive a lot for work, long trips. Can't have things go wrong in the brake dept.
 

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If you really want longevity you can always order cryo rotors, they're $130 each for the front but will last longer than OEM: Frozen Rotors - High Performance Brake Pads, Brake Rotors

Pair those with Akebono ceramic pads with reduced dust, and if most of your driving is long trip rather than city -- and you're not Ricky racer -- you might see 75-100K from them.

$110 for the drilled zims at bma is a great deal though. I was thinking of going back to solid (wore my Brembos out in one set of hard pads :() but for that price may rethink it.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 
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