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New rear tires and alignment

3503 Views 18 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Mr Pou
OK, the passenger rear tire is worn down to the cords on the 1st inch or so on the very inside edge of the tire. The rest of the tire looks fine, with even wear. The drivers side rear tire does not exhibit this wear pattern, it looks fine, even wear. As they both were almost to the wear bars anyway, I ordered rears from Tire Rack, and they will be installed Saturday.

So, with that narrow band of wear, the rear alignment must be bad. Question is, can someplace like Goodyear get the alignment right, or does one need to fork over the extra bucks and have the dealer do it?
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Don't even think about using a G/Y place...

They might have the specs in their computer but they are normally a bunch of hacks that work in those kind of places.. I used to manage one back in the day and it was hard to find good people .. Dealer has the right tools and experience on our cars !:bowdown:
You Forgot To Mention The Car Was Lowered

You need the correct term. Its rear camber. Thats what wears out the inside edge. The ONLY way you will ever stop inside wear is by using a K Mac adjustable bushing kit or adjustable control rods. A dealer won't touch you or lie and take your cash and do nothing. Factory MB rear suspension is NON adjustable. After you choose one anybody can reset your camber.
Bon shaunce Mon Ami
Its Gonna Cost $$$$

I'm Tired. I just caught the part one tire is wearing. Can't you feel that in steering feel? Thats huge chasis stress. Either you have accident related damage to only one side or your coil spring is comprimised. It might just be a missing spring pad. For your sake pray for coil springs. They run $250-350 H&R. You need to pull the wheel off and check it all out from one side to the other.
I'm Tired. I just caught the part one tire is wearing. Can't you feel that in steering feel?
No, steering feel is light, but fine. Goes straight hands off. High speed stability is good, and I can feel no difference in hard cornering left or right.

Either you have accident related damage to only one side or your coil spring is comprimised.
The car was my fathers, and has never been in an accident. He was run off the right side of the road by a semi a few years back, but doesn't remember the car hitting anything hard, and he said it drove fine the rest of the trip.

For your sake pray for coil springs. They run $250-350 H&R. You need to pull the wheel off and check it all out from one side to the other.
I think I will cut a piece of 2x4 to just fit the outer diameter of the rim, have my wife hold the board, and use a level to compare camber left to right, and see if the passenger side is out by a great deal.

I would think a big hit would affect the toe more than camber, unless the lower control arm was bent. I need to look at the suspension with the wheel off, and see where the jounce bumpers are, and them see what piece would likely bend if it bottomed hard.
Mr. Pou,

Do you have a lowered suspension?
What size wheels/tires are you running?
Mr. Pou,

Do you have a lowered suspension?
What size wheels/tires are you running?
Bone stock CLK430 cabbie with the factory AMG 17" wheels. Present tires are Michelin Pilot A/S, 245/40/17, which I believe is the stock fitment.

I've ordered two Pilot A/S Plus, same size, as the front Pilot A/S have lots of tread depth remaining.

The rear springs could be sacked somewhat, my parents, who owned the car since new, are *hefty*, and they travelled with the trunk and back seat packed. (It was always loaded down)

Car has 38000mi on it, and is otherwise quite cherry. Dealer serviced all the way, and Dad spared no expense on recommended service/repairs, etc.
Understood. Unless you know a great place to have your car aligned, my suggestion is to take it to the MB dealer. They have the correct equipment to properly align the car (they typically have the laser-guided 4 wheel alignment machines), and can add camber bolts if necessary for very minor adjustment.
Understood. Unless you know a great place to have your car aligned, my suggestion is to take it to the MB dealer. They have the correct equipment to properly align the car (they typically have the laser-guided 4 wheel alignment machines), and can add camber bolts if necessary for very minor adjustment.
The plan is this:

Have new tires put on Saturday, bring car home, do some measurements at home (esp camber), and see if things look bad. If so, buy the K-mac, put it on myself, then take to the dealer for a laser align.

OK, shoot holes in my plan....;)
The plan is this:

Have new tires put on Saturday, bring car home, do some measurements at home (esp camber), and see if things look bad. If so, buy the K-mac, put it on myself, then take to the dealer for a laser align.

OK, shoot holes in my plan....;)
lol....your money, but tires aren't cheap - for good ones at least.

Do you have proper equipment to measure camber, etc. on the car? Who knows....you may live a great distance from a dealer and therefore don't want to risk driving on corded tires?? If it's just on one side, throw on the spare....

If your alignment is out of spec, your new tires will begin to wear immediately. Depending on how much out of spec, they can be corded in as little as a couple thousand miles. Since we cannot rotate this pricey ruber, it's important - at least to me - to have a thorough job done right from the beginning. FWIW, I have always done an alignment and high-speed balance (I use Butler here locally) when installing fresh rubber.

Hint: You can purchase tires at the MB dealership, have them installed, balanced and aligned all at the same time. Several of the MB dealerships here in ATL will even price match with others on the tire pricing, so unless you're getting a bargain basement price on the tires, I don't see any advantage to taking the car several different places.

Hint #2: Assuming you can purchase tires super-cheap, you can even bring your own tires to the dealership and have them install, balance and align to spec.

IMO, you don't need K-mac parts unless you put on larger wheels and tires, or have the suspension lowered.

Good luck!
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IMO, you don't need K-mac parts unless you put on larger wheels and tires, or have the suspension lowered.
OK, good to know. I will put maybe a total of 10mi on the car between getting the tires put on and going for the alignment.

So there is some small amount of camber adjustment a dealer can do?
OK, good to know. I will put maybe a total of 10mi on the car between getting the tires put on and going for the alignment.

So there is some small amount of camber adjustment a dealer can do?
I'm on the phone right now with my independent car "doctor".

Yes, rear toe has some adjustment. Camber bolts can help too.

Step 1: Get a printout of before AND after alignment specs - ask for it. Then you'll know exactly what the issue is/was.
This`is Gonna Cost You New Springs @ Minumum

There's No way to correct camber in a "stock" W208 MB rear besides replacing your springs. Especially wearing out the inside edge of the tire.
The adjustment others above referred to is toe/thrust and its very small at best. Not camber. You're describing classic sacked out springs in stock ride height.
Don't forget to replace the spring pads.
Camber Bars Are For Lowered Cars Not Messed Up Stock

This car is Stock. This approach is wrong and dangerous with a messed up stock suspension. The suspension must be corrected without any adjustable aids. Remember this is causing exteme tire wear only on one side.
If this car was lowered it'd be prudent to use camber bars. I used adjustable camber bars on our lowered Cabriolet.
Replace the springs and spring pads. It should be obvious as hell.
This car is Stock. This approach is wrong and dangerous with a messed up stock suspension. The suspension must be corrected without any adjustable aids. Remember this is causing exteme tire wear only on one side.
If this car was lowered it'd be prudent to use camber bars. I used adjustable camber bars on our lowered Cabriolet.
Replace the springs and spring pads. It should be obvious as hell.
Thought I'd give an update. Car went to the dealer, and everything checks out as in the normal range. They did bring the front toe back more towards nominal, but everything was good.

I'll watch tire wear as I go.

Things that make you go huh?

:confused:
Your stealorship is freakin blind and lied thru their teeth. Its physically impossible to wear out 1 inside rear tire alone and correct it with front toe.

Unless you stated rear wear and its really front tire that was wore out
Someone doing one-wheel burnouts? LOL
Your stealorship is freakin blind and lied thru their teeth. Its physically impossible to wear out 1 inside rear tire alone and correct it with front toe.

Unless you stated rear wear and its really front tire that was wore out

I'm skeptical as well, but they provided before and after printouts, and the rear camber/caster/toe are supposedly in spec. The rear camber seems excessive to my eye, but I have an uncalibrated eye. :rolleyes:

I may price new rear springs/seats, and change them out.
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