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Well, so much for ordering the sill covers from that link. NLA. That site seems to list a lot more than they can get.
Which link was that? The OE one from NC?

The SL shop in UK has them it seems and probably the SLS linked above too. Seems they may be reproductions.

Millers say they have them: https://shop.millermbz.com/rubber/rubber_door_sill_mat/68_3550

Authentic Classics too (Genuine MB) - 2-piece sets. https://www.authenticclassics.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=1076860180

MB Classic may be another option. Their Euro site shows some as being available still, probably just certain colors.
Mercedes-Benz Classic Ersatzteile
 

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Discussion Starter #22
To all:

Yeah, top was $955 to install, and I provided the top.

They charged me $250 JUST for the door sills. I just called about it; they're going to redo it, tho the shop owner's dad was snippy about it: he said they'd used sheet rubber (that they had lying around, no doubt) and cut it to fit. Then he said "they [the supplier] sent chrome door sills, but you wanted rubber," but that doesn't explain why they didn't call me about the change.

To fix the map pocket, driver's side door, $225. Just repair, no parts.

Hood insulation pad: $118; freight plus labor, $120

So the job was good except for the door sills, which frankly look CHEESY and CHEAP, not worth $250! Also, there's that air bubble on the driver's side, and probably on the passenger's side as well.

The dad, Jim, isn't the shop owner, that's Sean. Haven't talked to him yet, but will when I get back.

As far as the top is concerned, my plan is to drive down on Sunday to see our dad (90, in a nursing home, LOVES this car and used to have one). So the scheme is to surprise him and take him for a drive -- with the top down! Because he loves, loves, loves "driving topless," and before he turned the car over to me, he kept it for the summer and drove around town with his 90-year-old girlfriend with the top down.

I'll leave it up and park it in the sun, and get help relatching the back hook when I put it back up, I guess. But the shop owner said "We had to steam it twice, and ease it back about a quarter of an inch to try to make it easier to fasten, but it took two of us to get it to latch," which sounded Daunting. I can drive to my dad's mechanic and get them to help; they're a two-minute drive from the nursing home.
 

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New top looks really nice.

After a couple of weeks, it should stretch a bit, but you can expect it to stay fairly tight. I'm assuming it's a fabric (not vinyl) top, and if it stays too tight, I'd try to water recommended by Nobby (post #8) and others. It's worked for me with other newly installed convertible tops over the years.

You might want to consider giving your new top a dose of protection with RaggTopp.
See here:raggtopp.com
There's an ongoing debate here about RaggTopp protectorant vs 303 convertible top products. I use 303 Aerospace Protectant to help protect many items on the 107, but prefer RaggTopp for the top. Do a search and you can read some of the other opinions.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
New top looks really nice.

After a couple of weeks, it should stretch a bit, but you can expect it to stay fairly tight. I'm assuming it's a fabric (not vinyl) top, and if it stays too tight, I'd try to water recommended by Nobby (post #8) and others. It's worked for me with other newly installed convertible tops over the years.

You might want to consider giving your new top a dose of protection with RaggTopp.
See here:raggtopp.com
There's an ongoing debate here about RaggTopp protectorant vs 303 convertible top products. I use 303 Aerospace Protectant to help protect many items on the 107, but prefer RaggTopp for the top. Do a search and you can read some of the other opinions.
I used Scotchguard on the old top, which seemed fine; no leaks in a driving rainstorm. Top was 28 years old at the time. But I am interested in the plastic window cleaner. I've just seen suggestions of using plain water; not always sufficient in NYC smog.
 

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What I really like is the fact that you are not willing to accept anything but a well done job from these various vendors (I recall The Saga of Gene von Queens from a while back).

Good on you for getting what you pay for and making them stand behind their work. Hopefully will make it easier for the NEXT customer, to not get ripped off!
 

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For your plastic windows, I recommend Plexus. Not only cleans and protects the windows, but will clear up superficial scratches. Used it on the 107, boat canvas plastic, Harley windshields, etc. Check the reviews on Amazon where you can purchase, or order it directly from Plexus. Here's the website:
Plexus Plastic Cleaner
 

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For your plastic windows, I recommend Plexus. Not only cleans and protects the windows, but will clear up superficial scratches. Used it on the 107, boat canvas plastic, Harley windshields, etc. Check the reviews on Amazon where you can purchase, or order it directly from Plexus. Here's the website:
Plexus Plastic Cleaner
Meguires also have a product. Clear Plastic Detailer #18. Also used on boats, bike helmets, and a host of other things.

They also have Clear Plastic Cleaner #17 for removing scratches followed by a wax #10.

I have #18 on my desk right now! I sometimes use it on my eyeglasses!

But for your new top with nice new windows, I would avoid Meguires and Plexus and just use Windex or even just soapy water. Reason comes from this article and this excerpt:

There are also aerosol cleaners such as Plexus Plastic Polish and Armada 210. These perform very well in the short term, but the Strataglass manufacturer firmly states that the products, which contain about 20- to 30-percent petroleum solvents, can cause hazing if used regularly. Based on our limited compatibility testing, we believe it. The solvents can remove protective coatings, leech surfactants, promote crystallization of the polymer (hazing), and delaminate the coating (orange peel or haze). The solvents in the pump-spray products we tested are generally more gentle alcohols.
 

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Windex has ammonia and alcohol in it, not good for the plastic. I second plexus, used to use it on the airplane windows.
 

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Windex has ammonia and alcohol in it, not good for the plastic. I second plexus, used to use it on the airplane windows.
Plexus contains solvents. I think that the article said that vinyl manufacturer Strataglas said it is not recommended? This is the MSDS sheet. From what manufacturer says,it does seem like a good product for solid plastics, but they don't say anything about flexible vinyl as used on softtops or boat canvas.

By the way, not all Windex products contain ammonia.http://www.windex.com/en-us/products/pages/crystal-rain-glass-cleaner.aspx

For new windows, a wet microfiber rag or at most a little dish soap in water is probably all that is needed (I have some in an old Windex spray bottle!) That is all I have ever used on my top. It stays out of sun in storage compartment most of time anyway!
 

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Hi,my 92 SL had a rubber spoiler type thing along the top of the rear bow. Unfortunately, when I put the top down awhile ago the rear window blew apart. Do, I decided to replace the top. But the new top didn’t have the spoiler. Now I get wind noise across the back and a bit of buffeting across the rear window. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a source for the spoiler? Thanks
 

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Hi,my 92 SL had a rubber spoiler type thing along the top of the rear bow. Unfortunately, when I put the top down awhile ago the rear window blew apart. Do, I decided to replace the top. But the new top didn’t have the spoiler. Now I get wind noise across the back and a bit of buffeting across the rear window. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a source for the spoiler? Thanks
Try the R129 forum.
 

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Maybe read the whole thread, ...

If you don't mind what did the top cost? Labor to install? Thanks

Hey there PDF,if you read the thread from the 1st post you'll find all the information you're looking for. Unless the thread is into double digit pages (too time consuming I guess) you're usually going to find the info you're after by scrolling thru the whole thing.


John :grin
PS,it's post 22 where Mehitabel gives the cost breakdown. :wink
 

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Hey there PDF,if you read the thread from the 1st post you'll find all the information you're looking for. Unless the thread is into double digit pages (too time consuming I guess) you're usually going to find the info you're after by scrolling thru the whole thing.


John :grin
PS,it's post 22 where Mehitabel gives the cost breakdown. :wink

She posted the price "top was $955 to install, and I provided the top". For New York City I would think this was a very good price. Several years ago here in N.C. I was quoted something like $1500.
 
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