[Captain Dean]

Need to replace my radiator. Does anyone have suggestions for good quality & price? I'll have to order on-line.

Mine needs the EOC (Engine Oil Cooler) and TOC (Transmission Oil Cooler)

Do all of them come with plastic tanks? Are copper radiators available?

Dean.

 

[Ivanerrol]

Buy a Nissens if not a Behr.
All have plastic tanks.
Buy OEM coolant or Zerox G05 - don't use anything else.

 

[LeftCoastGeek]

in the Volvo world, the OE radiators are Nissens, plastic, aluminum. some after market vendors have had custom all brass/copper radiators made for the more common models, also heater cores, these are much more durable, and if they do develop a leak, they can be repaired .

 

[augapfel]

My 89 300E parts car has a copper/brass radiator. No idea what the brand is or how old it is. I'll take a look later today and see if it is marked.

 

[Clarkz71]

My 89 300E parts car has a copper/brass radiator. No idea what the brand is or how old it is. I'll take a look later today and see if it is marked.

Let me know on that, I'd love to get one of those.

 

[Captain Dean]

Thanks everyone. All the on-line radiators are plastic/aluminum and they don't last long here in this Hawaiian salt environment. I'll start getting prices with the Mercedes dealer in Honolulu and ask about copper radiators. Maybe there is a local radiator shop that can make one.

 

[cascade]

All other things being equal I would go for the Nissens made in Denmark.

A dozen years ago or so I did buy the Behr for my 560SEC as at that time they were still being made in Germany and may have had a slight quality edge over Nissens at the time.

However Behr is outsourcing these to India I believe and if they once held the edge for that reason they may not any more.

In any case as was said the Behr and Nissens are best. for these vintage of Mercedes Benz.

Definately use only original Mercedes Benz coolant or Xerex G-05 as mentioned above anything else is incorrect.

 

[Captain Dean]

Thanks Cascade,

I found a Nissiens dealer in Honolulu, 3 islands away. They seem like a full service radiator shop so they might have one on their island. I'll also ask about having a copper one built.

Dean.

 

[augapfel]

I checked the 89 parts car. It's not copper and brass. I can see that the tanks are plastic and the top/botttom bands are steel (they're rusting) but can't see what the core is. Probably amuminum.

Sorry for the bad info earlier.

 

[Captain Dean]

Thanks Augapfel,

Regardless of the outcome, thanks for taking an interest. I'll examine my own lower straps for rust now.

Dean.

 

[Captain Dean]

Got the new radiator installed and the car is running cool now. So far I have not needed to change the circulation pump.

A few questions regarding the fan belt tensioning device:

1) Is the "shock absorber" (10) supposed to be a gas charged cylinder that keeps pressure on the belt? Mine operates like an suspension-style shock absorber but does not apply any pressure to the tensioning mechanism.

2) The tensioning assembly (14): Is the center supposed to turn 360 degrees?

3) In the end, what is the adjusting screw (5 & 18) supposed to do? I can only see that it calibrates the pointer (13).

 

[ps2cho]

The dampener is only made to remove the vibrations from the belt. They usually last a long time, but the rubber where the bolt goes through wears and causes a weird knocking noise. Easily remedied with a washer.

Not sure what you mean by turn 360deg?

The long adjusting rod and main adjustment bolt determine the full tightness and should be done in CORRECT ORDER. This is imperative for longevity of the tensioner's rubber internal bushings. Straying from this, especially if its the original tensioner is a sure way to end up with a failed unit.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Got the new radiator installed and the car is running cool now. So far I have not needed to change the circulation pump.

A few questions regarding the fan belt tensioning device:

1) Is the "shock absorber" (10) supposed to be a gas charged cylinder that keeps pressure on the belt? Mine operates like an suspension-style shock absorber but does not apply any pressure to the tensioning mechanism.

2) The tensioning assembly (14): Is the center supposed to turn 360 degrees?

3) In the end, what is the adjusting screw (5 & 18) supposed to do? I can only see that it calibrates the pointer (13).

As an FYI, in the diagram bolt #4 goes live in a oil galley. Right on the timing cover if you look carefully, there is an O-ring. It will be hard/brittle....replace that an you'll have one more small leak stopped. Be sure to smear some oil or grease on the bolt shoulder and make sure there is no rust or pitting on it.:thumbsup:

Kevin

 

[Zeitgeist]

Personally, I'd opt for a Behr unit. The last Nissens I bought arrived without the metal reinforcing inner sleeves on the plastic water necks. To me that's a major point of weakness that needs to be stiffened up if you want the rad to last.

 

[Captain Dean]

The car is running at 100 C which seems warm without the thermostat.

First I cleaned the system with cooling system cleaner, then flushed and ran the engine with just water, and it overheated.
Then flushed and drained and filled with 1/2 gallon coolant + water. Ran at 100 C.
Next, I will clean again, drain & refill with the suggested coolant + distilled water.

I may have to pull the head and have it shaved flat.

 

[augapfel]

Have you bled air from the head before firing up?

After i did a head job on the M103 3.0 I was putting in my 88 260E, I installed the head, put everything together, filled the cooling system, and fired it up.

Oops! At least on teh M103 you *have* to burp the head by removing a 14mm hex head plug on the head. If you don't the cooling system will puke repeatedly and overheat.

I'm guessing that the M104 has a similar burp plug?

 

[cbc atl]

You may want to try the new thermostat and cap on the expansion tank.

I saw what I believe you have a couple of weeks ago after flush and fill with water. It started bubbling from expansion tank cap.

I was waiting on a new thermostat while driving a couple of days with water only. The old thermostat was still in it. I had another cap so I replaced that before the thermostat arrived and did not see it boil again. So it was probably the cap. But it did get hot again at that 100 degree level until I got the new thermostat in there.

When thermostat arrived, drained water, removed bolt augapfel is talking about and filled with 50/50. Engine does not need to be started as the water will seek its lowest level and fill radiator and engine. That bolt is about the most difficult to get started back again, it is machined pretty well. But put it back in there when the coolant starts to flow out. Once the bolt is back in and you fill coolant tank to mid level then top it back to mid level after you drive it and you see the level go down. I had to do that a couple of times and now all is well.

Anyway if there is even a small leak whether it be from the cap, the head a bad hose or whatever it will boil. An then there is the question of why you think it wouldn't get hot without a thermostat?

 

[sbaert]

Also don't overlook the expansion tank itself. It develops hairline cracks over time due to heat stress and as a result the cooling system can no longer hold proper pressure leading to overheating conditions.

Same pressure cooker principles apply to automotive cooling systems. Without proper pressure, you cannot raise the boiling point.

 

[Captain Dean]

Thanks everyone, here are my responses:

Sbaert: The expansion tank has been replaced by the previous owner, and the cap is brand new. So far no obvious leaks there, but I'll watch it.

cbc atl & augapfel: This bolt is still a mystery to me, where should I look for it? (Front, back, driver's side, passenger side ?) Sounds like it's in a difficult place and I should take my high blood pressure medication before attempting to mess with it.

 

[lowesguy]

I just ordered a Behr From Autohaus az.free shipping and no tax for me in Socal
Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir $25.62
Radiator $179.75
Radiator Hose; 90 Degree Elbow Fitting on Top of Radiator for Drain Hose $2.34
Radiator Hose; Lower $7.87
Radiator Hose; Upper$11.39

hopefully it will be good stuff!