[RichDiesel]

And now for my next CL venture, a 01CL600 with the catastrophic oil cooler leak on the M137 engine... The guy was going to part it out but we struck a deal on the whole car as it is way too nice to be dissected.

Car has about 74k miles, looks near brand new inside, body is very nice too. Car was slammed from sitting for awhile when I got there to look at it, started it up, hit the suspension switch and it popped right up. So it runs and everything works, but is blowing oil like the Exxon Valdez. It is throwing one code for a right camshaft hall sensor which I presume is something kinda simple, I'll check on that when I start tearing the engine apart to fix the oil cooler. And the instrument cluster is missing too, the guy sent it off to have the display repaired and the shop apparently lost it somehow somewhere. I'm not sure if a S-klasse IC will work or not, I was told by the PO that the CL unit is a bit "shorter" front to back although it appears there are some common part numbers for the IC between a S and CL. Staggered AMG wheels so that is nice, they look good on the silver car.

I'm picking it up in a coupla weeks, will be a "fun" (???) project. Looks like I will need the cam lock tools so if anyone has any they want to part with, let me know.

Feel free to let me know how stupid I am, but even with the work ahead I think it will be a great car once sorted. In the meantime I'll be driving my cheap 02CL500.

The 02CL500 with a few warts, but I love this car. I'm guessing the 600 will be even more entertaining once sorted.

 

[tim687]

You are an absolute hero! The car seems to be in the perfect condition for an proper restauration project.

Really looking forward to more posts about this car

 

[RichDiesel]

Brought the 01CL600 home. Added 5qt of cheap oil to make sure there was some in the sump (I bought a dipstick that supposedly fits the engine, not exactly sure where the oil should be on it but there is a fair amount in the engine now), car started right up and runs well aside from being a bit rich which I think is that camshaft sensor, suspension pumped right up and is still holding a few days later. Have not yet had a chance to look too closely at the car (or unload it from the trailer) but will do that today and give it a good cleaning and see what all is going on with it. Fun times ahead I guess.

I found the Copart sale for the car which was a bit saddening as the guys I bought it from got it pretty cheap and made some good $$$ off me, but oh well that's how it goes. They were going to part it out and make some big $$ off it so I can console myself that I saved it from an ignominious end... though I might still be a fool...

I bought a 01CL600 parts car 2 weeks ago for pretty cheap. This thing was about as far back in the mountain woods dirt road as you can get in Georgia. Aside from no key no cats no tandem pump and no title it is actually in pretty good shape aside from whatever someone was trying to bodge with the front suspension valve block so that will be a good donor for this one if I need anything for it. I do need a cluster for the silver CL600 so will pull it from the black car. I put power to the car and the cluster lighted up so that was encouraging. The body is in mostly excellent condition except for that scratch on the lower driver door and black interior is very good aside from some damage to door cards from the windows being down for awhile, so parts off that are going on my CL500 to replace hail-damaged hood and cracked front fender. It has the multi-contour seats so I might swap those into the CL500 too. I washed it and hit the hood with a clay bar and a first compound polish and it looked really good. Almost makes me want to try to fix it up but not sure how to work the title and key issues though there might be a way...

 

[tim687]

Brought the 01CL600 home. Added 5qt of cheap oil to make sure there was some in the sump (I bought a dipstick that supposedly fits the engine, not exactly sure where the oil should be on it but there is a fair amount in the engine now), car started right up and runs well aside from being a bit rich which I think is that camshaft sensor,

I made the mistake to continue driving with a enriched fuel trim and one of my cats was destroyed.

View attachment 2797254

Amazing to read from you again!

Two things;

• Could you not forget to take a video of the oil cooler leaking when the engine is running?
  • That will be a nice reference video to have
• Could you post a photo of the engine (or message me your VIN number)? Your car has the AMG body parts and I'm wondering if it is a real AMG.

I bought a 01CL600 parts car 2 weeks ago for pretty cheap. This thing was about as far back in the mountain woods dirt road as you can get in Georgia. Aside from no key no cats no tandem pump and no title it is actually in pretty good shape aside from whatever someone was trying to bodge with the front suspension valve block so that will be a good donor for this one if I need anything for it. I do need a cluster for the silver CL600 so will pull it from the black car. I put power to the car and the cluster lighted up so that was encouraging. The body is in mostly excellent condition except for that scratch on the lower driver door and black interior is very good aside from some damage to door cards from the windows being down for awhile, so parts off that are going on my CL500 to replace hail-damaged hood and cracked front fender. It has the multi-contour seats so I might swap those into the CL500 too. I washed it and hit the hood with a clay bar and a first compound polish and it looked really good. Almost makes me want to try to fix it up but not sure how to work the title and key issues though there might be a way...

View attachment 2797257 View attachment 2797257

Whenever you change the ICM, you'll need to reprogram the VIN into the cluster. There are plenty of tutorials out here that show you how you can do that

 

[RichDiesel]

I made the mistake to continue driving with a enriched fuel trim and one of my cats was destroyed.



Amazing to read from you again!

Two things;

• Could you not forget to take a video of the oil cooler leaking when the engine is running?
  • That will be a nice reference video to have
• Could you post a photo of the engine (or message me your VIN number)? Your car has the AMG body parts and I'm wondering if it is a real AMG.

Whenever you change the ICM, you'll need to reprogram the VIN into the cluster. There are plenty of tutorials out here that show you how you can do that

Thanks on the ICM, I'll check that out. And I will see what I can get on the oil cooler. Interestingly I did not see any oil blowing out when I loaded it on the trailer, and it looks fairly clean on the headers and front cats where the oil supposedly goes so that is curious. Maybe the leak is not yet too bad.

The silver car has AMG kits but no AMG badging on the trunk
772 AMG STYLING PACKAGE-FRONT SPOILER, SIDE SKIRT
792 AMG-WHEELS 8X18 SQUEEZE-IN DEPTH 31 235/40 (S210)
It has no AMG engine cover badge. Curious too the wheels are not staggered. My CL500 has staggered wheels (8, 8.5X18) but those were probably added at some later time as those are not on the build sheet.

The black "parts" car has AMG badge on the trunk (for whatever that is worth) and "AMG" chrome wheels (I have not pulled one off to look at actual part number if they are actual MB AMG wheels thought they look like they might be) but shows no AMG packages on the build sheet like the silver car does so I don't really know what's going on with it. The side skirts look similar to the silver car but the front spoiler and aux light surround is somewhat different. It does have an AMG engine cover with the signature of the builder on it, but again, who knows the story with it. I didn't get a pic of it yet. I parked it up on another property and did not do a lot of detailed look at it. I did spin the engine with a wrench though, so it was not locked up or anything which is encouraging. I'll get more details on the black car later.

The cluster came alive when I put power to the car and I was able to move the steering wheel too although nothing else would move without the key

 

[tim687]

The silver car has AMG kits but no AMG badging on the trunk

It is an option to remove it from the trunk. The lack of the AMG badge on the engine cover is a giveaway though.

So, WIS/EPC tell you it's the M137 E58 then, right?

 

[RichDiesel]

It is an option to remove it from the trunk. The lack of the AMG badge on the engine cover is a giveaway though.

So, WIS/EPC tell you it's the M137 E58 then, right?

Sliver car: Engine 137970 40 004386
Black car: Engine 137970 40 009932

Any links to reprogramming vids for the cluster? I have a Star clone if I need to get into any details

 

[tim687]

I'd checkout this thread: W220 pre-facelift intrument cluster swap, mileage shows...

I think, based on the VIN of a real CL63 AMG I'd found online and according to that your motor should have the code 137980 if it where an E63 motor.

 

[RichDiesel]

OK so I got the 01CL600 home and started digging into it a bit. I bought an oil dipstick to check the oil level and of course did not read the little paper in the package that said where the oil lever should be for this engine (DUH), and had added a jug of cheap oil to it to make sure it had enough after the supposed oil cooler leak. Well turns out it was not low so I had to suck out all that new oil which is going into the chain saw jug so it won't be wasted.

Anyway, starting the car showed huge amounts of smoke billowing out, i thought this was due to the excess oil. Starting the car after sucking out the oil it was better. I decided to take it for a quick little drive and it would not really get past idle, and it was blowing smoke still. After thinking about it, and sniffing the exhaust (DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS! LICENSED PROFESSIONALS ONLY ON CLOSED COURSE) and decided it was fuel not oil that I was seeing. hmmmm. Also I could see no oil leaks aside from a bit back around the bell housing, certainly nothing that suggested a catastrophic oil cooler leak. hmmmm.

When I went to look at the car I had seen a code for the right camshaft position sensor so had ordered one. I figured I would pop that in, that would most likely cure the issues with the excess smoke. Well, "popping in" a new cam position sensor is not to be done -- there is NO ROOM to pop it out as the intake manifold is in the way. WTF? So I dug into the WIS and shonuff you have to remove the whole d**n intake manifold to swap this $55 part. So now I am thinking that the PO took the car to the stealer to get it fixed, they told him this would be a $2k job to replace this fairly cheap part, and at that point he just walked away from the car or traded it in or something (it ended up at Copart auction where the guy I bought it from picked it up). So anyway, this is more encouraging than having to take the engine mostly apart for the oil cooler, just taking part of it apart for the cam PS 😱. So anyway time to order more bolts (they are stretch bolts) for the manifold and gaskets and probably the other cam PS too as it should probably be changed as well while I am doing this job. Sigh.

On a positive note the suspension pumps up and holds, no problems there, that is comforting.

I gave the car a good wash and it looks amazing, just a few little dings here and there. It clearly has low miles and was very well-cared-for over the last 20+ years, interior is very nice too. Carpets need some cleaning but easy enough to do. I am somewhat encouraged now about the engine issue, and when the weather warms up later this week I'll get the parts and get to the job and get this beeste back on the road. I'll need to pop in the "parts car" cluster too, then dig more into the miles issue. It seems like to clone a "new" cluster you would need the old one to pull the data from but without that I'm not sure how to do it. More on that later after more investigation.

The CPS does not have enough room to slide out, the intake manifold is in the way 😡 How stupid is this design? If it had been positioned to the left a little bit no problem. I guess sometime between the 123/126 and the C215 MB lost all sense of reasonably sensible repairs on their cars.

 

[tim687]

I have been there before. You'll indeed need to lift the intake manifold to remove the sensors, you can do this without removing the bolts completely. However, as they are stretch bolts you'll need to replace them. I've replaced them with regular bolts as Mercedes didn't have them in stock anymore.

Please refer to EPC for the lengths of the bolts as they are not all the same!


Make sure to replace both CPS' and make sure to use the original ones.

I've tried 3 different aftermarket sensor brands and only the Mercedes-Benz OEM sensor worked well.




She is looking mighty fine 👌🏼

 

[RichDiesel]

I have been there before. You'll indeed need to lift the intake manifold to remove the sensors, you can do this without removing the bolts completely. However, as they are stretch bolts you'll need to replace them. I've replaced them with regular bolts as Mercedes didn't have them in stock anymore.
Please refer to EPC for the lengths of the bolts as they are not all the same!
Make sure to replace both CPS' and make sure to use the original ones.I've tried 3 different aftermarket sensor brands and only the Mercedes-Benz OEM sensor worked well.
👌

Thanks for the tips! I'll check Monday on the bolts, I have been ordering actual MB stuf from MB of Covington, they have good prices even with shipping. My local stealer is horrible, about 2X their prices. I see the different bolts in the EPC and WIS although it doesn't say which is which. Bah. I got a Febi CPS from FCPE but maybe now I need to just bite it and get the MB version since it is such a difficult job.

 

[tim687]

I've tried the Febi one too, and they didn't work. I got very lucky with my CPS'. There is a company in the Netherlands who has a test M137 engine, which actually never ran. So I fetched the two CPS and the crankshaft position sensor from them for rather cheap

Does your dealer actually ship things to you?! I need to go to the dealer and collect it from them.

You'll recognize the short bolts when you take them out XD, just remember where they went. I used a piece or cardboard to push them through, so you'll have the layout of the bolts

 

[RichDiesel]

I've tried the Febi one too, and they didn't work. I got very lucky with my CPS'. There is a company in the Netherlands who has a test M137 engine, which actually never ran. So I fetched the two CPS and the crankshaft position sensor from them for rather cheap

Does your dealer actually ship things to you?! I need to go to the dealer and collect it from them.

You'll recognize the short bolts when you take them out XD, just remember where they went. I used a piece or cardboard to push them through, so you'll have the layout of the bolts

You might not be in the US, I don't know. But in the US there are several dealers around the country that sell parts online, some are cheaper than others, it all depends on their markup structure. The dealer MB of Covington (LA) has about the best prices so I have been ordering some MB parts from them if other vendors don't have either aftermarket or the genuine MB parts.

I use the cardboard trick on my jobs with lots of screws and bolts, works well! You can make a diagram on it then know exactly where the bits go.

 

[tim687]

I was thinking about your oil "leakage". Is it oil leakage or consumption? If consumption, could you check the inside of the PCV tubes? There is one running from the front left crankcase to below the throttle body.

 

[RichDiesel]

I was thinking about your oil "leakage". Is it oil leakage or consumption? If consumption, could you check the inside of the PCV tubes? There is one running from the front left crankcase to below the throttle body.

I will take a look at that when I do the intake manifol/cam position sensor job. Thanks for the suggestion! Parts are on order, not sure when they will be here.

 

[tim687]

Any updates?

 

[RichDiesel]

Any updates?

I got the bolts and intake manifold gaskets along with another cam position sensor (replaced both while I'm at it). Pulled out the manifold, cleaned it up (it had a lot of oil in it, I think from the PCV vent). Managed to crack the ends of the brake booster vacuum line and the end of the PCV tube that goes from the front to the back so I need to order those. The PCV tube is made of 4 segments connected together, I can't actually find these in the EPC but they have part numbers (called "coolant hoses") so could find them on dealer vendor sites. Weird. They appear to be shrink fit on the connectors too, not sure how to get them apart except with a heat gun to expand/loosen the ends then that might get into a whole nuther set of issues. So I need to order those to get the thing back together, another $100 in parts plus whatever 4 connectors (can't find the part numbers) are, ugh. The old gaskets were crusty and the paint was peeling off so those were trash.

Anyway I got everything fairly well cleaned up, no signs the oil cooler is leaking so that is A Good Thing. There was a bunch of crap down in there, mice or rats and acorns and leaves and such but not too much, wiring looked OK.

I got the manifold back on and the new bolts torqued down properly. The gaskets were a bit fiddly as there is only one locating pin on one end, so I put a bit of adhesive on the other end (not on the part around the holes) to hold it in place but still had to get a little screwdriver to push it into place through the end bolt hole. It all worked OK. Plugged the injectors and other connectors back in.

I found a really good video on the V12icparts web site of the guy replacing the manifold so that was really helpful. This is not a particular hard job just a bit fiddly with having to remove everything to deal with the stupid design of the cam position sensor location. And the brittle plastic bits... I printed off the WIS guide too so that was also helpful but most everything is fairly intuitive (with a bit of guidance) once you get in there.

So I need to get these other parts then can get it buttoned up and see how it runs.

 

[tim687]

The PCV tube is made of 4 segments connected together, I can't actually find these in the EPC but they have part numbers (called "coolant hoses") so could find them on dealer vendor sites

On each segment there is an label with an arrow to the number of the next segment, the arrows on both segments need to line up

You can only get these at the dealership
Here are the part numbers:
220/1: A1370180082
230/2: A1370180182
240/3: A1370180282
250/4: A1370180382
260/5: A1370180482
270/6: A1370180582
280/Joint: A1020940212
290/7: A1370180682
300/8: A1370180782
310/9: A1370181082
320: A1370180209
330: A1020940212
340: A1179901578
350: A0029901678

Please note; this picture lists the wrong installation order for hose 270 and 290. Follow the red lines I've marked in the picture for the correct installation instructions and make sure that the throttle body doesn't crush the hose (260 I think it was). Hose 260 needs to go between the 'leg' of the throttle body (which you can see on the picture near hose 300) and the throttle body's housing.

They appear to be shrink fit on the connectors too

Nope, you just need to pull them. I think that your hoses have started harden, which makes it look like they are welded together.

The gaskets were a bit fiddly as there is only one locating pin on one end, so I put a bit of adhesive on the other end (not on the part around the holes) to hold it in place but still had to get a little screwdriver to push it into place through the end bolt hole. It all worked OK. Plugged the injectors and other connectors back in.

If you look down from the top and on the non locating pin side, you can actually see if the gasket is in place or not

V12icparts

That is a website you'll need to remember!

 

[RichDiesel]

On each segment there is an label with an arrow to the number of the next segment, the arrows on both segments need to line up

Thanks for the info! Where did you find the diagram and list? I spent about an hour last night digging in the EPC trying to find them and no luck. That whole thing is incredibly obscure. The old parts actually have the part numbers on them so I found them on a dealer parts site and will order them, a guy got back to me with the connectors. They come up as "coolant hoses" which they aren't but whatever. I'm going to order them now so should be good to go.

These are the only pieces I need, and the connectors. I think! I should go look at the car to make sure!
220/1: A1370180082
230/2: A1370180182
240/3: A1370180282
250/4: A1370180382

 

[tim687]

I've found it under Engine -> 14 INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS -> 030 INTAKE MANIFOLD