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1983 300 SD; 2000 E320
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Discussion Starter #1
just got the 1983 SD I've been wanting for 22 years, and trying to figure things out. The most important is the very high vibration over 75 mph. I'm thinking tire balance because the front end checked out OK.

I want to preventively change parts out. My alternator says "Bosch". Is this OEM or a replacement?

Should I change my water pump now?

Is there a fuel pump, or is the pump the same as the fuel injector?

If I remove a broken door check on rear door and don't replace it, will my door be OK as long as I don't slam it open?

Also, my drivers seat controls function in all directions except one. Is it possible it's just a bad contact or will I have to change the whole control unit?

Lastly, my engine runs strong and my transmission is smooth, still, when I accelerate any harder than a feather foot the turbo comes on and I slam into first a little bit. Not horrible, but is it normal?

Thanks
 

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1991 300 SE
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18,534 Posts
My alternator says "Bosch". Is this OEM or a replacement?

Both.

Should I change my water pump now?

Is your engine running too hot?

Is there a fuel pump, or is the pump the same as the fuel injector?

There is a mechanical indirect injection (IDI) fuel injection pump (IP). It is vacuum operated and produces over 2000 psi. The pressurized fuel is sent to the injectors and sprayed into the pre-chamber where the fuel ignites.

If I remove a broken door check on rear door and don't replace it, will my door be OK as long as I don't slam it open?

I would replace the check – slamming is not a problem; opening is.

Also, my drivers seat controls function in all directions except one. Is it possible it's just a bad contact or will I have to change the whole control unit?

Try cleaning the contacts on the switch first.

Lastly, my engine runs strong and my transmission is smooth, still, when I accelerate any harder than a feather foot the turbo comes on and I slam into first a little bit. Not horrible, but is it normal?

This may be a sticking kickdown switch. Remember also that diesel transmissions of the era can be a little stiff, this has to do with the ‘artificial’ vacuum created to operate the transmission, since there is no manifold vacuum in a turbo diesel, unlike a gas engine.
 

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1983 300 SD; 2000 E320
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1,099 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks JDC,

My engine is not running too hot. Still, I thought I might change out parts whose failure could prove catastrophic. Do you think this is a good idea? Any other parts (besides timing chain) that you recommend changing before they fail?
 

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1983 300 SD; 2000 E320
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1,099 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
RE: new 126 owner 1983 SD - ALTERNATOR #

ps: is it possible to tell if the alternator is OEM by looking at serial or model #?
 

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1991 300 SE
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18,534 Posts
I suspect after 23 years you no longer have the factory alt.

Don’t worry about the alt and the water pump as long as your car is charging and the engine stays at or below 85 C. Unfortunately you own a reliable, almost maintenance-free engine, you’ll be very bored. The body and chassis will rust and rot away before the engine needs a rebuild.

If you feel the need to do PM, assuming you have no records and don’t know when anything was last done, here’s the list:

Flush and refill the coolant using MB coolant (we call it ‘coolant’ in the South).

Install fresh tranny fluid and filter, Dexron III, get the filter from an online parts store like GermanStar, Fastlane, etc. (in fact, get all your parts from online, not AutoZone, and the like.)

Install new brake fluid, any DOT 3 is fine.

New engine oil and filter, use synthetic or Delo 400 15w 40 (API CH-4) and a Mann oil filer.

New pre and main fuel filters – in fact an IP purge might be a good idea.

Install a new air filter.

When you adjust the valves (every 15,000 miles) check the t chain for excessive stretch, in excess of 4 degrees, if memory serves.

That’s all I can think of now off the top of my head.

Check for excessive smoke, a long high-speed drive might be in order, keep it cleaned and waxed and you’ll have reliable transportation for the next 50 years.
 

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I live next to Germany (Holland)
MB is a populair brand in Holland, so I have almost 20 years of experience in MB cars and vans.

In Holland and Germany, almost nobody uses full-synthetic oil in old cars like the 300 SD.

Unless you have a rebuilt engine, full synt. oil can cause failure of the seals in the engine.
I have seen that many times....

Another fact is that when a engine has some sludge (likely after more than 20 years), full synth. oil cleans the engine, resulting in blocked oilpumps and small canals in the 617 engine.....

In general we use good quality mineral oil and a oil AND filter change (indeed Mann) at 7500 km. Semi-synth will also do fine (10.000 km)

I agree with the rest of the tips above

Very nice forum .....

Ramon - The Netherlands
 
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