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2006 clk 350
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I’m about to swap out my oil filter housing and to get the old one out, I have to remove the tensioner puller, idler pulley, thermostat, and the oil filter housing.I’m trying to prevent from doing this job again by torquing them back in at the proper torque specs. I figured since I’ll have the oil filter housing off, I might as well change the camshaft magnet that’s behind it as a precautionary measure. I’ve done a search and I am finding 25nm-75nm on the oil filter housing. That’s a huge difference. So I’m looking for someone with WIS to help me out with the correct torque specs on these items. Also I was looking into getting WIS off eBay. Anyone recommend a particular one to get?
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550 FORMER: C300, ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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The filter housing bolts to the block and timing cover are 20Nm. There are 6 bolts with 4 different sizes. Make sure you keep up with their proper placement.

The oil cooler bolts to the filter housing are 12Nm.

The thermostat bolts to the timing cover are 25Nm.

The camshaft solenoid (a.k.a magnet) bolts are 9Nm.

The idler pulley bolt is 35Nm for a new installation, 25Nm when re-installing it.

The Tensioner pulley bolts are 35Nm.

As for which WIS to buy, I think they are all pretty much copies of the same thing, so I'd buy the least expensive one.
 

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2006 clk 350
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Awesome!!! Thanks rudeney. You always come through. I appreciate you taking your time out to help.
 

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2006 clk 350
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hey rudeney or anyone that can help. While attempting to swap out my oil filter housing I broke a bolt for the thermostat and now I cannot get the bottom right screw of the oil filter housing to tighten. I gets snug by hand and then when I attach the ratchet it loosens up. The bolt looks odd. Is this stripped? I know it’s the right bolt for that hole
2670348
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
CURRENT: 2011 SL550 FORMER: C300, ML350, CLK550 Cabriolet, C240, ML320, 300TD
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That's not the bolt that is stripped - you stripped the threads in the bolt hole and they are wrapped around your bolt. Looks like you need to invest in a Helicoil or Time-Sert repair kit.
 

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2006 clk 350
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the quick reply. I was able to get the broken thermostat bolt from the dealer. I also picked up a helicoil kit but the bolt is getting tight nowhere near halfway in. Im scared to force it. I can’t even get it hand tight. Should I use the socket and sink the bolt or should I standby and let the pros handle it?I think I bit off more than I can chew this time :(
 

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2006 clk 350
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Oil filter housing has been snugged back up after putting in a helicoil. Lost sunlight while I was doing the job so I plan on getting it all back together tomorrow. Just have to somehow remove this broken bolt from the thermostat. Any suggested methods of accomplishing this?
2670383
 

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Coupe/Convertible Forums Moderator
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One trick is to drill into the center of the broken bolt, using a bit about half the diameter of the bolt. Then use an extractor, which is like a reverse-thread tapered drill bit. But use that by hand, not with a drill motor.
 

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MY05 CLK55 AMG ,CLK320,Former,C180 Kompressor,Jensen Healey,Ford Capri V6,Alfa GTV.
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Maybe try some locking pliers ,,if you have a suitable pair.
 

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2006 clk 350
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Had a friend of a friend try to help me remove it. He tried welding a bolt multiple times but it kept falling off when trying to remove it with a ratchet. Then he cut the exposed bolt down( don’t know why I think that’s what made it even harder) I think he made it worse as he cut the bolt down. I told him to stop working because I started to get nervous that he was too close to the engine block. I attached some photos of its current condition. So I went to an Indy MB repair shop and showed him the pictures of my problem. The Indy said that the only way to remove the bolt is to completely swap out the engine timing cover (part number 2720150802. My issue is I don’t believe that to be true but I also can’t drive the car to different shops for other opinions because I can’t get it back together in its current condition. Any expert thoughts? Anyone been through this issue with a successful outcome on the m272 motor? Please help
 

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MY05 CLK55 AMG ,CLK320,Former,C180 Kompressor,Jensen Healey,Ford Capri V6,Alfa GTV.
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Do what Rudeney said..use a small diameter drill at first...you need good quality new drill bits.
 

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2006 clk 350
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for your reply. We tried drilling into it with multiple brand new different drill bits. For one reason or another we cannot drill a hole deep enough in the stud to get an extractor tool in. I just want to know if I really have to replace the entire engine timing cover( which sounds like such overkill for one stud) or if it’s possible for a pro to just remove it without doing such a big job. $1500 sounds like over selling to me especially over one broken stud. I was even contemplating putting the thermostat back on with the one remaining bold along with the gasket and silicone to seal it off
 

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2006 clk 350
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Discussion Starter #14
I broke the bolt to my thermostat housing on my 06 CLk350 m272 engine. We tried welding a bolt onto the stud and removing with a ratchet then tried drilling a hole for extraction tools and all we’ve done was stripped away the remained exposed stud. I went to an Indy MB mechanic to assess the situation as I feel like I personally hit a dead end (I’m not a mechanic) I attached some photos of its current condition. So The Indy MB repair shop mechanic said that the only way to remove the bolt is to completely swap out the engine timing cover (part number 2720150802) which is a pretty large job and from what I was told requires the engine to be removed from the car. I was quoted roughly $1500.00. My issue is I don’t believe that this is the only solution for such a small issue but I also can’t drive the car to different shops for other opinions because I can’t get it back together in its current condition. Most shops want to physically see the vehicle and not pictures of the issue. (Don’t know why that is) Any expert thoughts on an easier and cheaper fix to the problem? Anyone been through this issue with a successful outcome on the m272 motor? I feel like there has to be another alternative. Please help I’m getting desperate here.
 

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1977 450 SEL 6.9
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809 Posts
You will need a lot of localized heat as in a propane torch for multiple heating and cooling cycles. This usually works to loosen up the corrosion bond, also prodigious use of penetrant spray like PB blaster. Depending on clearance you might then be able to drill a small hole into the bolt itself. Make sure to center punch. Then go progressively larger on the bit. Then use largest bolt extractor you can. They key is not to force the extractor and be patient. Usually with the heat cycling also caused by drilling the bolt will let go. Take your time and good luck.
 

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The reason replacing the timing cover is so expensive is because the oil pan has to come off, and to do that, the engine must be lifted so the pan can clear the axle carrier. I still say drill it and use an extractor. I have done similar things many times and you do have to use very sharp, very hard drill bits. It's a slow, tedious process to start with a tiny bit and work up to a larger hole, but that's the way it's done.
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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Yes, I echo previous comments and all I can say it's gonna take patience so just take your time. Stressful, painful but recoverable.
 

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2006 clk 350
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I ended up taking it to a mechanic and he was able to get it out immediately. He welded a washer and bolt into the stud and removed it with a socket. He did in minutes what I couldn’t do in three days.
 
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