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2003 CL55 AMG.

I'm having a problem with the condenser suction fan not coming on and can't find a wiring diagram that shows the fuses and voltages that go from the connector to the control unit of the fan.

I replaced the entire fan assembly with a new one, but it hasn't cleared the problem. My car works fine except for the fan not coming on.

I purchased a WIS shop manual from emanual online and cannot make it work.

Any help with either issue would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The fan is electronically controlled by the ECU. It will only come on when needed, and the speed is variable base don demand. THe fan may not be activated until the engine temp reaches 90C or higher. Running the AC on max should also run the fan on max.
 

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Prior to replacement, the fan would come on low speed intermittently or not at all. I would have to turn the car off and then back on to get the fan to engage. Now that I've replaced the fan, it doesn't come on at all when the AC is turned on.
 

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The fan control module is powered by fuse 48 (right fuse panel). It feeds pin 3 of the fan connector. Pin 1 of the connector is ground (brown wire). Pin 2 is +12v from the battery terminal connector under the dash. Pin 4 is the control feed from the ECU (pin 30 on connector 4, a green/blue wire). I'd start with the ground wire to make sure it's solidly connected and the high-powered +12v wire. Of course check fuse 48. If all of that is good, then I'm at a loss.

BTW, I have hands-on experience with this model. I am just looking through WIS and interpreting this based on my knowledge of other MBZ cars.
 

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Many thanks for the assist. Does the car have to be running? AC on or off to check the voltages?
 

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I think the +12v will always be powered.
 

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The fan control module is powered by fuse 48 (right fuse panel). It feeds pin 3 of the fan connector. Pin 1 of the connector is ground (brown wire). Pin 2 is +12v from the battery terminal connector under the dash. Pin 4 is the control feed from the ECU (pin 30 on connector 4, a green/blue wire). I'd start with the ground wire to make sure it's solidly connected and the high-powered +12v wire. Of course check fuse 48. If all of that is good, then I'm at a loss.

BTW, I have hands-on experience with this model. I am just looking through WIS and interpreting this based on my knowledge of other MBZ cars.
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I have a related problem. 2004 CL55 AMG with dead battery and am unable to use the spare key to open the trunk. Is there a way to pull a fuse that would have a live connection to +12v on the battery and back feed (trickle charge) the battery?
 

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I have a related problem. 2004 CL55 AMG with dead battery and am unable to use the spare key to open the trunk. Is there a way to pull a fuse that would have a live connection to +12v on the battery and back feed (trickle charge) the battery?
Here's what you do. On the passenger side, pull the footwell carpet that's against the firewall. Behind the carpet is an aluminum shield. Three 10mm connectors and it comes out. Under the shield there are some wires. In the middle there is a junction of some red wires. Attach your battery box positive lead there. Attach the black lead of your battery box to an available bolt for ground. Jump the car. Open the trunk with the release. Put a blanket or something to keep the trunk from dropping and closing again.
 

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I have a related problem. 2004 CL55 AMG with dead battery and am unable to use the spare key to open the trunk. Is there a way to pull a fuse that would have a live connection to +12v on the battery and back feed (trickle charge) the battery?
Just to double-check your procedure, did you pull the trunk handle with the key inserted and turned? See below - this shows a CLK, but it's the same on most all MBZ cars:


 

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Awesome, thank you so much.
Here's what you do. On the passenger side, pull the footwell carpet that's against the firewall. Behind the carpet is an aluminum shield. Three 10mm connectors and it comes out. Under the shield there are some wires. In the middle there is a junction of some red wires. Attach your battery box positive lead there. Attach the black lead of your battery box to an available bolt for ground. Jump the car. Open the trunk with the release. Put a blanket or something to keep the trunk from dropping and closing again.
Here's what you do. On the passenger side, pull the footwell carpet that's against the firewall. Behind the carpet is an aluminum shield. Three 10mm connectors and it comes out. Under the shield there are some wires. In the middle there is a junction of some red wires. Attach your battery box positive lead there. Attach the black lead of your battery box to an available bolt for ground. Jump the car. Open the trunk with the release. Put a blanket or something to keep the trunk from dropping and closing again.
Thank you for the great description. I will upload a picture later showing the junction and the location of the Distronic Module. What a great forum, better info than other local (experts?). Had the trunk locking mechanism replaced because the auto open did not work, but the emergency key did work in the old mechanism. Now with the new lock the auto open works but no luck so far with the emergency key.
 

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Just to double-check your procedure, did you pull the trunk handle with the key inserted and turned? See below - this shows a CLK, but it's the same on most all MBZ cars:


Rudeney, thanks I tried repeatedly over 6 days with no luck. The old mechanism would open with the emergency key but since the new lock mechanism was installed, no luck.
 

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That sounds like you did not properly connect the mechanical linkage from the handle to the latch. Or, the linkage in the latch it broken. That failure happened on my SL. The metal linkage rod snaps into a plastic piece on the latch. The plastic on mine got brittle and broke so it could not be opened manually. I used some epoxy and bailing wire to "fix" it, but I also drilled a hole int he panel behind the tag so I could trip the latch with a screwdriver if necessary.
 
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