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1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo Diesel
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Hi, I finally w123 300D started working on my interior wooden pieces because glassy clear coat finish is all cracked up. Right now I have a wooden A/C piece submerged in acetone for the past 24 hours. While I can feel that glassy finish got somewhat slightly softer, still it is hard enough and it won't come off. What do I do? Any suggestions? I don't think I should sand it down to avoid ruining wood grain and texture.
 

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Hi, I finally w123 300D started working on my interior wooden pieces because glassy clear coat finish is all cracked up. Right now I have a wooden A/C piece submerged in acetone for the past 24 hours. While I can feel that glassy finish got somewhat slightly softer, still it is hard enough and it won't come off. What do I do? Any suggestions? I don't think I should sand it down to avoid ruining wood grain and texture.
I'm no expert, I did not find a solvent that would touch this surface finish, but on my 1980 280SL I used a heat gun and a knife blade perpendicular to the wood and scraped it off when the finish was heated. When I first tried sanding I determined this was a bad idea. Hope this helps.
 

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1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo Diesel
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I'm no expert, I did not find a solvent that would touch this surface finish, but on my 1980 280SL I used a heat gun and a knife blade perpendicular to the wood and scraped it off when the finish was heated. When I first tried sanding I determined this was a bad idea. Hope this helps.
Hi thanks for you suggedtion. After you scraped off the epoxy coating (i think this is what it is) and then refinished wood pieces, how did texture and wood pattern look to you? Were there any noticeable defects visible resulted from scraping and sanding of wood?
 

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Hi thanks for you suggedtion. After you scraped off the epoxy coating (i think this is what it is) and then refinished wood pieces, how did texture and wood pattern look to you? Were there any noticeable defects visible resulted from scraping and sanding of wood?
Well you have to be cautious with the knife blade just knocking off the finish. If I recall I then LIGHTLY sanded cleaned dust and refinished with several coats of poly outdoors type. Then after very fine grit sanding used polishing compound and small electric buffer to bring out smith shine. You can Webb search finishing wood for high shine.
 

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1984 300CD, 1983 240TD Euro
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Acetone works like a charm. You need to be patient, it can take as long as 3 days to work. I put my pieces into a disposable baking pan and covered with plastic. The finish comes off in sheet type pieces. No rubbing, scraping or sanding.
 

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1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo Diesel
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Discussion Starter #7
Acetone works like a charm. You need to be patient, it can take as long as 3 days to work. I put my pieces into a disposable baking pan and covered with plastic. The finish comes off in sheet type pieces. No rubbing, scraping or sanding.
Thanks for suggestion! I kept my piece submerged in acetone for 24 hours and it did not do a thing. Next piece will be 72 hours! Will see what happens. I realized that keeping plywood/wooden piece submerged in acetone did not affect the structure of the piece, which is great.

I ended up using Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover. I brushed it on and after a while I kinda rubbed the wooden piece with my brush (did not want to use scrapers to protect the wood texture). After many applications of Jasco -- brushing on and then brushing around and then washing it off I managed to remove all finish (see photo attached). Still, I did not like this method because it was too hands-on and time consuming and too messy. I couldn't properly wash the wooden piece of residue with acetone, so I ended up rinsing it in water.

Next trim piece, I am keeping it in acetone for 3 days! I will have Jacso remover a 'non-invasive' method #2 in case if acetone fails.

Now that I have the wood stripped of epoxy coat, I kinda like the texture and the pattern and the color. I maybe like to keep it this way -- not make it darker like original w123 trim looks. I might just use clear coat without any tint.

Thanks again everybody for your suggestions!
 

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Stripping and then a custom finish is worth it in time and mild exposure to chemicals vs money if you were to buy them already refinished. If you want to end up with an OE finish then it is a much more involved process with plenty of opportunities for "do overs" and more exposure. In either process make a special effort to reduce your exposure. It adds up. Sometimes it's just a matter of running a fan.
 
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