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Discussion Starter #21
Next was changing the blower. You can see it from the battery box. . . but that's not how it comes out! You remove the three T20 screws from under the passenger dash, and remove the cover panel, just like you are changing the cabin filter. The footwell lamp (a hot incandescent) comes out by rotating 90 degrees. Likewise the vent air temperature gauge. This will allow the panel to be removed from the area.

There is only one cannon plug connecting the blower to its control unit, it just pulls off. Then one of those silly panduit wire connectors needs to be removed from the side of the blower housing, where it anchors the wires. (I think the Factory was VERY particular about the routing of these wires, so be sure to put them back exactly where you found them!) And there is a pink connector connected to the side of the blower, you can see in the photos. You depress a barb and this slides off.

Removing and installing the blower is simply a matter of depressing a plastic tab and rotating the entire assembly clockwise. Then reinstalling and turning counterclockwise (as you lie in the inverted yoga position with back to the floor of the car.) It takes longer to read the instructions than it takes to do the job. Thanks to Koenig for the tech data!

I ended up with a genuine MB part (made by Behr) from eBay for $129. It was made in 2013, but it worked fine! The factory part is about $250, wonder how old IT is.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Next came bleeding brakes. Yet again I am indebted to "G-AMG" for his excellent tutorial here, offered for "entertainment purposes only!"

G- by far your best tip was to NOT fill the bleeder bottle with fluid! Since we are only opening one bottle, it makes sense to use the pressure bleeder ONLY to create head pressure of 20 PSI over the fluid in the reservoir!

This is about one hundred pumps, of course keep an eye on the pressure gauge. Maybe if you rowed in college you can do it in ten or so, but it took me a hundred. I think Benz says 2,0 bar, I don't think the gauge on my "Schwaben" pressure bleeder goes up that high! And my arm certainly does not!

As stated by "G" the key is to stop after each corner and re-fill the reservoir to maximum, then re-seal and pump up again. You do NOT want to push it too far and put air into the system!

While I was under there I noted the condition of my front rotors. . . these arrived in the mail from ECS, but the rears are on back order! So the full brake job will have to wait a couple weeks until all the parts are in!
 

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wow - awesome photos, and great job.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Well this completes 2018 preventative maintenance. . . on to Detailing!

A pretty routine four-corner brake job. . . I was able to locate the Factory procedures which include the torque specs and a few tips for completing the job, but it is otherwise very conventional.

85,000 miles on ORIGINAL pads. . . which still had some life left. Not bad for a Wagon! But the rotors were DEEPLY grooved and rusted. . . it was unquestionably time.

The HAZET piston retract tool is invaluable-- I have wanted one of these for 15 years, and finally found it for $129 . . . I have seen this as high as $275!

Headmarks of the replacement caliper screws were as original.

I was able to source the aft half plastic wheel well liner, you can see the original had a big hole in it, from hitting a large twig this past winter. Absolutely no damage to the inner fender, which is pristine.

The Factory recommends you replace the caliper bracket screws when you do the job-- the replacement supersede part number for the rears gets you the same size M12 screw, but with a flange on the head.

To remove the rear calipers you use an M7 hex bit-- mine happened to be a STAHLWILLE that I bought to do my old BMW many years ago. . . unfortunately, at 4" long there was no clearance from the lower control arm! I dremeled the bit in half and it worked fine. Using a 1" cut-off wheel to slice through 7mm of German steel takes a LONG time!

Can you spot the mistake I made, that I later corrected?

Enjoy-- FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!
 

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That's your idea of detailing? Mine is fixing the paint swirl on my W212, which I still need to do this summer sometime :-D
 

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Discussion Starter #26
No, I mean, now that preventative maintenance is done, now detailing can begin!

Detailing will be a SEPARATE thread! :)
 

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No, I mean, now that preventative maintenance is done, now detailing can begin!

Detailing will be a SEPARATE thread! :)
Crack open your wallet, and splurge on the new Sonax CC36 Ceramic Sealant...

The stuff is the BOMB!! I've gone a year & 1/2, and H2O still beading off!!
 
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