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Hello,

I bought a 1983 Mercedes 300 Turbo yesterday for $1800. It was from the original owner, original paint and non smoker car.

The car has a couple lil things that need fixing.

1. The heater controls are kinda funky. It wont blow at your face unless you change it to defrost first. The owner said he thinks it is a lil circuit board behind the controls?????

2. Front crankshaft seal leaks....is it an easy fix?

3. The tach works intermittently??

4. AND IT NEEDS SHOCKS....WHAT should I buy and where from?. OR does anyone have any new shocks for sale?

Thanks

All I can say if what a car..

Perry
 

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Mercedes Diesels
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Hello,

I bought a 1983 Mercedes 300 Turbo yesterday for $1800. It was from the original owner, original paint and non smoker car.

The car has a couple lil things that need fixing.

1. The heater controls are kinda funky. It wont blow at your face unless you change it to defrost first. The owner said he thinks it is a lil circuit board behind the controls?????

2. Front crankshaft seal leaks....is it an easy fix?

3. The tach works intermittently??

4. AND IT NEEDS SHOCKS....WHAT should I buy and where from?. OR does anyone have any new shocks for sale?

Thanks

All I can say if what a car..

Perry

It can be the board or a vacuum leak. The Europeans designed the car so at least the defrost would works as a safety issue if other things break. Somepeople have resoldered connections on the pricey board.

Biltsteins or Boge shocks last a biblical lifespan, KYB's are cheap but can wear out in a year. The Bilstiens and Boge are rather expensive, but worth it.
I am not above keeping an eye out at the salvage yard for "new" looking Bilstiens. They disapear fast though. It can pencil out to buy them new.

As for the leak, clean the engine carefuly to find them, and don't switch to Synthetic if you already have leaks. Some are easy to deal with and others are not.
John Gregg
 

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1983 300Dturbodiesel
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for the tach, find the black cylinder ontop of the driver-side front wheelwell, unscrew it...

for the tach, find the black cylinder ontop of the driver-side front wheelwell, unscrew it, and stuff some paper or something into the black thing so it presses the tach amp (the thing that looks like a big D battery with glue on the top) down harder, its probbably because of that jiggling loose
 

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'02 WRX Blue
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Shocks and stuff

Wow, sounds like our cars are connected some how :)

My heater control just started doing that this summer, my main engine seal leaks, my tach works sometimes and I just replaced my shocks.

I highly recommend quality shocks, my car just flipped 160xxx miles and the original shocks started to bounce over bumps (since new the car was stored winters) Boge shocks came out, Bilsteins went in. Car drives awsome.

as for the oil leak, I'd take it to a service shop to find out which seal it is. When I brought mine in the said it was the seal between the tranny and engine...easy fix <$500, turns out it's a rope seal that runs through the engine, major buck, because they have to tear down the entire motor to get at it (if anyone has ideas let me know) So I use 30w oil and add a quart every 600-800 miles now. I can go through a lot of oil compared to the cost of the seal replacement.

I'm going to try the tach tip and the vent tip.

Thanks all,

Shane Kullman
'82 300d Silver
 
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