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You can also try taking your W201 out on an expressway and keep stomping on the throttle and blowing the carbon out that way. Look in your rear view mirror to see the black smoke coming out of your tail pipe. Keep doing it until the black smoke stops. This is what my engineer father used to do with our cars on a regular basis in order to prevent carbon build up from becoming a major problem. After you try this, then take it to be decarboned for $200.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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You can also try taking your W201 out on an expressway and keep stomping on the throttle and blowing the carbon out that way. Look in your rear view mirror to see the black smoke coming out of your tail pipe. Keep doing it until the black smoke stops. This is what my engineer father used to do with our cars on a regular basis in order to prevent carbon build up from becoming a major problem. After you try this, then take it to be decarboned for $200.
The gunk is not in the intake manifold, or inside the cylinders.
 

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Our cars never ran into any carbon build up issues using this procedure. My father was a member of the Society of Automotive engineers.
 

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1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG
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Still doesn't solve the face that an Italian tune up won't fix this particular carbon buildup.
 
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It'll go a long way towards helping to clear the clog and it doesn't cost anything. It may still need further repair as it looks like the clog is severe. Cost is a concern noted by the OP so I was trying to help with that as well.
 

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Obtw you have a very good source for quality userd merc parts close by
potomac forgn parts has done very well by me.

B
 
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Discussion Starter #28
For Italian cleaning solution how about revving the engine in park or pulling on the accelerator cable?
Car is running better after BG induction service. I disconnected the battery to see if PO410 comes up after a couple of drive cycles
 

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For Italian cleaning solution how about revving the engine in park or pulling on the accelerator cable?
Car is running better after BG induction service. I disconnected the battery to see if PO410 comes up after a couple of drive cycles
Hate to say it but it is placebo effect. BG intake service does not address problem area.
 
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And you don't need an italian tuneup as BG induction is supposed to do the cleaning. You should have got the secondary air injection passages cleaned out.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Mamma Mia, trying to keep up with so many cooks. So the problem area is where? And wire scrub was one recommendation? Looks like paint by the numbers is needed here...
 

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#18

 
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Discussion Starter #33
New intake manifold will not fix this problem.

You need solvent to dissolve the accumulated carbon buildup.... Otherwise you'll need to remove head and send to machine shop to clean that.


Follow my thread, same issue.
Since induction service did not stop PO410 code, what is the best solvent and how is it applied?
Where is the "head" in the diagram?
 

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Read my thread.
 
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Discussion Starter #35
Read my thread.
So I need
  • Skinny steel cable and a slow drill before anything is wet. (I have a rotary tool and can get a more powerful drill f needed. See pics - good?)
  • Steel cable for poking inside the ports to loosen the gunk - like a plumber's cable...how thick and long?
  • Remove the valves from the ports (not just the top part)?
  • "Shop vac then good blast with compressed air." (I don't have a shop vac...is it the only vacuum that works?)
  • What did you use to blast compressed air?
  • Funnel and soak with BG211....(I have a 11 oz can). Add more if needed...
  • Witek said "Soaked it with BG211 over the weekend. Monday morning funnel I used was empty. Turned engine over with ratchet to make sure engine is not hydro-locked, put rag over opening and started engine. Stuff went all over the place and I got flow. " (I don't have a ratchet. What opening...the port that was blocked?)
That this may be routine work for ya'll but it will be my first time doing this level of work so keep your cool if I ask a lot of questions - I don't want to damage my car and I need to get this problem fixed soon 😆
 

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That drill bit is too small. We're talking passageway that are approximately 12" from the top of the head to the exhaust port.

Plumber cable, the skinner the better. The holes are real small and have a sharp bend to the exhaust.

Remove the top part only, you don't need to remove the whole assembly. Bonus, the body of the secondary air valve acts as a impromptu funnel.

Any vacuum works, he mentions shop vac cuz shops usually have massive vacuums -- I think mine is a 5hp variant?

Any nozzle with a pointed end works with compressed air.

Use the BG211 if you have it. Leave it in as per witek instructions, and yes, cover the port that was blocked. You use a 27mm socket attached to a ratchet to turn over engine by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
That drill bit is too small. We're talking passageway that are approximately 12" from the top of the head to the exhaust port.

Plumber cable, the skinner the better. The holes are real small and have a sharp bend to the exhaust.

Remove the top part only, you don't need to remove the whole assembly. Bonus, the body of the secondary air valve acts as a impromptu funnel.

Any vacuum works, he mentions shop vac cuz shops usually have massive vacuums -- I think mine is a 5hp variant?

Any nozzle with a pointed end works with compressed air.

Use the BG211 if you have it. Leave it in as per witek instructions, and yes, cover the port that was blocked. You use a 27mm socket attached to a ratchet to turn over engine by hand.
I have a longer and wider drill bit and a portable power drill

Shopped 4 stores - 2x AutoZone, Advance Auto, Home Depot. OnIy one AutoZone had one long socket with 1/2 " drive. It was 1-1/16", supposedly the American equivalent of 27mm - yes? (socket photo). Tried fitting it on the hex nut and it seemed way too big so I didn't buy it. Must have been the wrong nut. Where is it? (engine photo)

No one at the stores knew what a JIS screwdriver was. Guess I'll need to order it online

When you say the top part of the check valve do you mean the part that is screwed on to the funnel (not the part that looks like a hat)?

One of the screws on the driver side check valve is stripped so I need to remove it with a screw extractor (photo). I have a set of extractor screws. One store had one tap wrench. I wasn't sure if I should buy it coz the man at the store said they come in different sizes and theirs looked too big (photo). What screw size should it work for?

Hand crank: never done it. Found videos showing how to begin the action but the vids end before the engines start. How far do I turn it - and how do I make sure my hand or wrench doesn't touch a moving part?
IMG_20200918_153759.jpg
IMG_20200918_184213.jpg
IMG_20200918_133128.jpg
IMG_20200918_133222.jpg
 

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I have a longer and wider drill bit and a portable power drill
Still won't work, the carbon buildup is not in a neat straight hole with no deviation, I think there's about 3 or 4 kinks in the secondary air passageway, with some of them making a damn near 90 degree bend. No drill bit will work, you need something thats flexible.

Shopped 4 stores - 2x AutoZone, Advance Auto, Home Depot. OnIy one AutoZone had one long socket with 1/2 " drive. It was 1-1/16", supposedly the American equivalent of 27mm - yes? (socket photo). Tried fitting it on the hex nut and it seemed way too big so I didn't buy it. Must have been the wrong nut. Where is it? (engine photo)
1-1/16 is 26.99mm, it's close enough. Or you could go to your local harbor freight.

No one at the stores knew what a JIS screwdriver was. Guess I'll need to order it online
Harbor freight carries it. So do home depot. You can spot the JIS screw drivers pretty easily, just look up the pics of a regular phillips and JIS and compare to what you see.

When you say the top part of the check valve do you mean the part that is screwed on to the funnel (not the part that looks like a hat)?
Yes.

One of the screws on the driver side check valve is stripped so I need to remove it with a screw extractor (photo). I have a set of extractor screws. One store had one tap wrench. I wasn't sure if I should buy it coz the man at the store said they come in different sizes and theirs looked too big (photo). What screw size should it work for?
Why are you trying to remove the reed valves on the driver side when you said the passenger side was the one that was clogged?

If the screw is stripped, you're better off removing the whole assembly and then use vice grips or something to remove the stripped bolt.

Hand crank: never done it. Found videos showing how to begin the action but the vids end before the engines start. How far do I turn it - and how do I make sure my hand or wrench doesn't touch a moving part?
You just put the 27mm socket on the crank bolt and then you turn clockwise. Just turn the pulley about four revolutions -- you should be be able to count by how many times you see the marks on the crankshaft pulley. Four revolution is 2 complete cycle.

As to your hands or wrench doesn't touch a moving part.....lol. Hopefully you're not turning the engine from the back through the serpentine belt.

Just in case we're clear, no key in ignition. No kids running amok who think it's cool to play with the key while you're in the engine bay. Keep the key in your pocket.
 

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Here is my attempt to fix P0410 on my '99 ML320. Engine uses 1qt every 4k. Carbon buildup is to be expected.

me20_actuations.png





There is terrible error in HHT-WIN for SAI activation screen.
Upstream CAT should read Bank1 (right)
Downstream CAT should read Bank2 (left)

sai_activation.png



It is obvious left bank is restricted. There is flow but not enough to pass SAI test.

ME2_faults.png




Left combi valve removed. Port entry is nice and clean. Problem is deeper.

PXL_20200919_141611557.jpg





Funnel cut to fit and seal against manifold opening. Bolt for combi valve is tightened with stack of washers to make sure manifold seals against the cylinder head.
PXL_20200919_143245604.jpg



I don't have BG211 so I am using Liqui Molly 2030. Funnel filled to the brim. Stuff is slowly trickling down. I will let it sit.

PXL_20200919_143239478.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Still won't work, the carbon buildup is not in a neat straight hole with no deviation, I think there's about 3 or 4 kinks in the secondary air passageway, with some of them making a damn near 90 degree bend. No drill bit will work, you need something thats flexible.



1-1/16 is 26.99mm, it's close enough. Or you could go to your local harbor freight.



Harbor freight carries it. So do home depot. You can spot the JIS screw drivers pretty easily, just look up the pics of a regular phillips and JIS and compare to what you see.



Yes.



Why are you trying to remove the reed valves on the driver side when you said the passenger side was the one that was clogged?

If the screw is stripped, you're better off removing the whole assembly and then use vice grips or something to remove the stripped bolt.



You just put the 27mm socket on the crank bolt and then you turn clockwise. Just turn the pulley about four revolutions -- you should be be able to count by how many times you see the marks on the crankshaft pulley. Four revolution is 2 complete cycle.

As to your hands or wrench doesn't touch a moving part.....lol. Hopefully you're not turning the engine from the back through the serpentine belt.

Just in case we're clear, no key in ignition. No kids running amok who think it's cool to play with the key while you're in the engine bay. Keep the key in your pocket.
Yes passenger side is clogged. My bad. Removed the top part easily. I see two tan colored things that I think are called reeds? Don't see a way to stick a funnel in there because they're blocking it. What do I do about those? still don't understand where the crank nut is.where is it in the photo I posted? I told you I would need to ask more questions!
 
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