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2002 SLK 32 AMG 1997 SLK230 & 1978 280CE
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oberoi said:
Are these the ones that should be renewed every 40/50 k ?
Oberoi

I think it is only the USA SLKs that have this valve....my Australian SLK doesn't have this valve or its controller under the front plastic engine cover

From what I have read this is fortunate as it seems to be a common source of MAF contamination

Earlier in this thread is a link to pictures

wgharper said:
While at the dealer, I picked up some additional parts to do maintenance: oil filter, air filter, and bypass valve (small one behind the airbox, screws in). I had read in other posts that this should be replaced every 50k miles or so. Well, I pulled out the old valve, and it had disintigraged internally, allowing free airflow in both directions! I put in the new valve, reattached the hoses, cleared the codes, and all is right again!

Here is a link to a good post with pics:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/foru...209880&posts=5

Angel, I hope this helps for you too. The part wasn't any more than $40-50, and I have my car back again. Please let me know if you need any additional info or need me to check anything else.

Geoff
David
 

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2010 C200 CGI /W203/SLK230/W202/230E/280SE
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Sounds good to me David!! Thanks

By the way, one of the guys in another forum wants to know best place to get Benz bits in Bne - can you help?

Oberoi
 

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'00 SLK230 Sport
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TurboZo said:
I have the exact same 4 codes as you aceangel.
1420
1235
1525
1236

I'll start by checking the relay and fuses. In regards to the bypass valve, I'm a little confused as to which one to check. As for the actuator flap, is it supposed to move while revving in neutral?

Thanks,
Zo
So, I checked the relay and found burnt spots! I hope this is the root cause. I posted pics on this thread:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2052984&posted=1#post2052984

Thanks for all the useful info on this forum.

Now for the check and shut off valves, the part numbers on mine are different from what you posted, Bazzle.

One is 002 140 2860, the other 002 140 4360.

See pic below. The ones circled in green and red. These are the ones you are referring to correct? Which is the shut off and which is the check? Also, if replacing the red one, how do you disconnect it? It looks like the bottom of it goes all the way to the exhaust mani or something, not sure. What's the blue one? It is connected to water hoses and doesn't look like it's related to the intake (in an earlier post, someone mentioned changing this one).

Thanks,
Zo
 

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---2000 SLK 230--------Hi everyone ------just wanted to give back to the site ......i'm a newbie at fixing cars for the most part -- ....i was getting code p1235...(air flap actuator output)...i kept failling inspection i went through like 4x...i first tried to disconnect battering to reset code and take it to DMV...and they couldn't get a reading .. so i failed ..2nd... drove fpo about 20 min. took it back and failed again....--then i went to autozone ..a day later -- they read the codes as well then i had them reset them-- took it back.. failed because still no reading ....i decided to do alot of reading on the code from site--- and located my superchager.....next to airfliter box.....took the hose off from supercharger ..located air flap..........cleaned it up alittle messed around w/ the connection wires to make sure they were snug....open and closed flap --about 5-10x....reconnected hose,,,,,reset code by disconnecting battery ........and Bam ...no more check engine light went through inpection a few days later and passed ......so maybe that may be a start for newbies like myself...2000 SLK230 good luck
 

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Hi everyone. It seemed like the supercharger on my slk-230 was not kicking in and I was getting the same four codes as so many others on this thread: P1235 Supercharger function, P1236 Magnetic super charger clutch, P1420 AIR pump switchover valve, P1525 Adjustable camshaft timing sole... I checked the K40 circuit board (located in a battery-sized box next to the battery) and sure enough there were three broken solder joints. I re-soldered them and my benz is back - absolutely searing performance! This site has saved me hundreds! Thanks again Benzworld and here is the post I pulled this info from...http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1263021-k40-relay-circuit-associated.html
 

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Where is the infamous K40 ? Oracle says it's the fuse compartment next to the battery. The Bazz says its next to the brake master cylinder. Antiposed sides of the vehicle. Where is that rascal?? Which side??
BTW this forum and all the advice here is just deluxe..
 

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Bazz I still have the P1236 code. I tried your remove the hose and rev. method and can attest that the unit is electrified and audibly so, but it will not close (divert to Kompressor) . Code dictates that its the magnetic coupler, but I can detect little that could be wrong there. I've cleaned everything with CRC I shall go forth unto the garage and groove on the K40 component and post back. Many thx for all the great posts.
 

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what size socket removes this bypass valve

what size socket removes this bypass.




wgharper said:
First the bad news:

I went and purchased the valve mentioned above, and tested it without "installing it". When I revved the engine, it did in fact move, though it didn't completely close. Just to be sure, I plugged it back in on the old one and tested one more time, and this time it did move! So, leaving the old one in, I hooked everything back up, cleared the codes, and tested the performance. The car was still showing the same symptoms listed above. Bummer, but the new part was not what I needed.

Now, the good news:

While at the dealer, I picked up some additional parts to do maintenance: oil filter, air filter, and bypass valve (small one behind the airbox, screws in). I had read in other posts that this should be replaced every 50k miles or so. Well, I pulled out the old valve, and it had disintigraged internally, allowing free airflow in both directions! I put in the new valve, reattached the hoses, cleared the codes, and all is right again!

Here is a link to a good post with pics:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1209880&posts=5

Angel, I hope this helps for you too. The part wasn't any more than $40-50, and I have my car back again. Please let me know if you need any additional info or need me to check anything else.

Geoff
 

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thanks bazzle. I will use this page....as a guide. I pulled out my MAFS and cleaned it.... supercharger codes are comming on still I am going to check my k40, as that resolved som other members similar issues....I also have a code for my cam position sensor... I tried to take it out.... is this a 6.5 mm socket... couldnt fit anthing on it? Thanks in advance....im learning..
 

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[QUOTE = "wgharper, publicación: 1619844, miembro: 43291"]
Hola. He estado al acecho aquí durante algunas semanas, y espero que pueda ayudarme a identificar las fallas indicadas por los siguientes códigos:

1420
1525
1235
1236

El automóvil es un SLK230 de 1999 con aproximadamente 81k millas. Actualmente estoy experimentando algunos problemas de fallo de encendido a altas revoluciones. Hasta que reinicié los códigos, el embrague del sobrealimentador no estaba funcionando. Ahora es.

Planeo revisar el sensor MAF y la válvula de retención en las tuberías de S / C este fin de semana. Gracias de antemano por tu ayuda.

Geoff
[/CITAR]
hola a amigos, tengo un slk230 año 2000, de pronto el vehículo perdió fuerza y me aparecieron los códigos que a ustedes también les aparece (1420, 1525, 1235, 1236) revisando en you tube (uds pueden revisar y para mas detalle buscar, MERCEDES BENZ SLK230 RELAY K40 FIX) me informe que estos vehículos utilizan un relay llamado relay K40, esta ubicado en la caja plástica instalada a la par de la batería, desmonte dicho relay lo habri y lo lleve a un taller radiotecnico esos que reparan tv, equipos de sonido etc. y le repasaron todos los puntos de soldadura donde tiene estaño, el problema se soluciono del todo desapareció el testigo chek engine y de nuevo el motor responde como antes de encender el testigo, gaste 5 dolares en que me repasaran las soldaduras y uno mismo puede desmontar la pieza, espero que esta información les sea de ayuda porque a mi se me soluciono el problema del todo, saludos
 

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Well, bad news and really good news

First the bad news:

I went and purchased the valve mentioned above, and tested it without "installing it". When I revved the engine, it did in fact move, though it didn't completely close. Just to be sure, I plugged it back in on the old one and tested one more time, and this time it did move! So, leaving the old one in, I hooked everything back up, cleared the codes, and tested the performance. The car was still showing the same symptoms listed above. Bummer, but the new part was not what I needed.

Now, the good news:

While at the dealer, I picked up some additional parts to do maintenance: oil filter, air filter, and bypass valve (small one behind the airbox, screws in). I had read in other posts that this should be replaced every 50k miles or so. Well, I pulled out the old valve, and it had disintigraged internally, allowing free airflow in both directions! I put in the new valve, reattached the hoses, cleared the codes, and all is right again!

Here is a link to a good post with pics:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1209880&posts=5

Angel, I hope this helps for you too. The part wasn't any more than $40-50, and I have my car back again. Please let me know if you need any additional info or need me to check anything else.

Geoff
picture is gone do you mind reposting the pic ? TY 1992-500SL i also had a recently purchased 1998 SLK 230 that wont pass emmisions - I replaced the MAF still throws a P0170 Trim Malfunction Bank 1 ODB2 Code
 
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