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1983 Mercedes 240d 4spd
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Discussion Starter #1
So Ive only had my 240d for about 3 weeks. I started noticing that I was having brake fluid running into my carpet and couldn't figure out y. The p/o said it was leaking brake fluid and he wasn't sure y. So i got to checking here and found it to be the clutch mc. So I bought a new one and replaced it yesterday. Only to find that 8 hours and lots of time covered in bf and everything else, I have yet to get the peddle to have any pressure whatsoever. I took the mc off and made sure it was holding pressure and able to take fluid in and expel it. It does. Put it back on tried bleeding it and still no pressure. I was up till about 330 this morning trying to get it but still havent. I ran a clear bleeder hose from the front right caliper to the slave bleeder. im not sure if i just didnt pump the brakes long enough or whats going on. I aim to try the oil can today when I get back to it. If that doesnt work idk what to do. Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Ps it is my dd so i need it asap!!!
 

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Erm - you did what exactely? :confused:

You ran a hose from the brake caliper to the clutch-slave cylinder and pressed the brakes to bleed the clutch!?
 

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1983 Mercedes 240d 4spd
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Discussion Starter #3
no i ran a hose from the slave cylinder bleeder screw to the rf caliper bleeder screw. loosened both just a little and began pumping the brakes to drive the air up and out of the reservoir. Have you not heard of this?
 

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5 Speed "85" Euro TD , 5 speed "85" Euro 240D, "79" 5 spd 240D, 5 spd "94" Dodge/Cummins PU
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no i ran a hose from the slave cylinder bleeder screw to the rf caliper bleeder screw. loosened both just a little and began pumping the brakes to drive the air up and out of the reservoir. Have you not heard of this?
Thats an OK way to do it but has many pit falls. If you want to greatly simplify things get a good oil squirt can and simply hook up a hose to the clutch bleed nipple, open it and pump. Your done. Drew out brake fluid from the reservoir so you dont overflow it. You can have an assistant watch the bubbles and let you know when there no longer showing. I will never go back to the brake slave to clutch slave method and I had it down pretty good after several brake fluid showers:D The squirt can method is simple and quick.
 

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5 Speed "85" Euro TD , 5 speed "85" Euro 240D, "79" 5 spd 240D, 5 spd "94" Dodge/Cummins PU
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Erm - you did what exactely? :confused:

You ran a hose from the brake caliper to the clutch-slave cylinder and pressed the brakes to bleed the clutch!?
Sounds crazy, but thats how the shop manual has you do it. trouble is the two nipples are different sizes so the hose will not fit properly, I wound up by using small hose clamps, PIA, Then you pump the brakes like mad (after opening both bleeders) then close the bleed nipples and check to see if you have clutch, if not crawl under, open the bleeders and try again, Its a pain but it works.
 

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Never ever before... o0 And I don't like the idea one bit, for one reason being dirt (=wear debris from normal use) in the system being pumped around... Leave the brakes alone and put the hose from the slave bleeder in a bottle... Do they sell stuff like EeziBleed in the US? Nice & cheap tool for DIY bleeding or fluid change operations. We use sort of a professional EeziBleed at work. Fluids in a brake system should only ever flow in one direction; from the reservoir down & out the bleeder nipple... Maybe I'm alone with this opinion, but that's how I learned it and that's how we treat customer cars. For good reasons! :)

Also if the hose sit's not 100% on the bleeder, it can draw air (venturi effect) into the fluid stream ;) With your method this would be an endless game...
 

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1983 Mercedes 240d 4spd
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Steve! That is definitely my very next plan of action! Are there any tricks that I need to be aware of other than what you said? I really hope this works. Im already missing my car!
 

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That is very true! I know that it is the method that is shown in the Haynes Manual. And I have read numerous posts from others on this forum that did the same. But Im just going to go ahead and get a squirt oil can today and try that method. And yes as you said with the hose not fitting properly it would draw air into the line or the line will pop off and u get what I and many others have, a brake fluid shower!
 

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Thanks Steve! That is definitely my very next plan of action! Are there any tricks that I need to be aware of other than what you said? I really hope this works. Im already missing my car!
No tricks, its a piece of cake. I use that clear hose from Ace and before attaching it to the slave bleeder pump the can a little to get the air out of the hose, I'm sure you would have figured that out. I dont know how hard it is to find a good squirt can. The one I bought from HF was junk but I found an old one in my shop that works fine. It doesn't have to hold allot, maybe 6 ozs or less.
 

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Never ever before... o0 And I don't like the idea one bit, for one reason being dirt (=wear debris from normal use) in the system being pumped around... Leave the brakes alone and put the hose from the slave bleeder in a bottle... Do they sell stuff like EeziBleed in the US? Nice & cheap tool for DIY bleeding or fluid change operations. We use sort of a professional EeziBleed at work. Fluids in a brake system should only ever flow in one direction; from the reservoir down & out the bleeder nipple... Maybe I'm alone with this opinion, but that's how I learned it and that's how we treat customer cars. For good reasons! :)

Also if the hose sit's not 100% on the bleeder, it can draw air (venturi effect) into the fluid stream ;) With your method this would be an endless game...
Your right about the possible contamination of the system but maybe the engineers figured folks would follow the owners manual and flush out the brake system every couple years. :) I use a pressure bleeder for brakes but it doesn't work very well on the clutch, although others have reported using it.

:confused: Leave the brakes alone and put the hose from the slave bleeder in a bottle... ????? I dont quite get this.
 

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1983 Mercedes 240d 4spd
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Discussion Starter #11
So I've got the oil can and a hose. Hooked it to the bleeder screw and started pumping. Didn't see any air bubbles come through to the reservoir. Not really sure what's going on. Please help! !
 

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'83 240D Auto 67k; '83 240D Manual 97k; '83 240D Manual 198k; '83 240D Manual 340k; '81 300D; S420
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I had some very similar issues a few months ago. I bleed the clutch about 7 times using all kinds of different techniques. Even took it to the Indy Shop that I frequent where he bled it with the same issues. The clutch was "free" until about halfway down and then it would apply pressure to the clutch but enough to not grind gears when trying to shift.

He ended up fabricating a bolt and dropped it into the Clutch Master Cylinder. It works fine now but something is still wrong. I strongly believe that we received the incorrect Master Cylinder. There are 2 kinds that a serial number is needed to determine the correct one.

SO, do you have the correct part?????

Are you getting any pressure/resistance from the pedal or is it free all the way to the floor?
 

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So I've got the oil can and a hose. Hooked it to the bleeder screw and started pumping. Didn't see any air bubbles come through to the reservoir. Not really sure what's going on. Please help! !
After pumping is the can empty of brake fluid? and you dont see more fluid in the reservoir? The clutch pedal isn't staying on the floor while you are doing the pumping?
 

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I had some very similar issues a few months ago. I bleed the clutch about 7 times using all kinds of different techniques. Even took it to the Indy Shop that I frequent where he bled it with the same issues. The clutch was "free" until about halfway down and then it would apply pressure to the clutch but enough to not grind gears when trying to shift.

He ended up fabricating a bolt and dropped it into the Clutch Master Cylinder. It works fine now but something is still wrong. I strongly believe that we received the incorrect Master Cylinder. There are 2 kinds that a serial number is needed to determine the correct one.

SO, do you have the correct part?????

Are you getting any pressure/resistance from the pedal or is it free all the way to the floor?
I once changed an BM clutch master and to save time and my energy, I left the push rod. It showed no sign of ware so I left it and inserted it into the new master. It was a different brand or something because it didn't work and when I pulled it , it was a different length than the push rod that came with the new master.:confused: The problem sounds allot like what you describe.
 

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1983 Mercedes 240d 4spd
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Discussion Starter #15
Tried the oil can method and still nothing. I'm not sure if the line that I'm using is too big and perhaps allowing air to pass by or if there is so much air that its causing it to just stay in one position and not allow the liquid to pass thru. Thoughts from those who have experienced this major pita! !!
 

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Well the cm that I got did not have a pushrod w it. But he cylinder or piston inside is different then the one that was on tithe car when I got it. The one that I pulled had a plastic piston where the new one is Metal. I pushed fluid from the reservoir line down thru the MC and up thru the line from the slave to make sure I had no blockages. None. Yet the pedal still goes straight to the floor and I have to pull it up. Idk what else to do. Use a mity vac and try pulling it out thru the slave bleeder?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
After pumping is the can empty of brake fluid? and you dont see more fluid in the reservoir? The clutch pedal isn't staying on the floor while you are doing the pumping?
The can was not empty and no there wasn't any fluid filling the reservoir up. And yes the pedal does stay on the floor.
 

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I think the pedal should be up when bleeding the system. So SOME of the fluid was pumped but it didn't show up in the reservoir? I think I would try again, making sure the pedal stays up through bleeding. If that doesn't do it I would suspect a faulty part.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think the pedal should be up when bleeding the system. So SOME of the fluid was pumped but it didn't show up in the reservoir? I think I would try again, making sure the pedal stays up through bleeding. If that doesn't do it I would suspect a faulty part.
The pedal was up when I was bleeding it. After using the oil can method, I pulled my lines loose and checked for blockages which there weren't any. I also do not have any leaks. I will try the oil can method again to see if I can get something to work. I believe that the line that I am using to hook from my my oil can to the bleeder may be sucking in air. I noticed last night when I hooked my mity-vac to that line and to the bleeder on the slave to see. Slave was closed off but I was just running a check on the line. Although with the mity-vac I do have the lines for it and the connection to hook to the bleeder. Should I use that? idk what else to do. Its becoming a huge pain. And now i dont have my car to drive and its my dd. :surrender:
 

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Dont mess with a mity vac. First off you should be able to get a hose that fits snug on both ends. Its pretty straight forward, if you pump fluid up from the slave to the reservoir its going to clear the air if not you have a bad part, probably the M/S. Where did you get it, I have never had one come without a new push rod. Hang in there but dont waste your time using a mity vac.
 
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