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Discussion Starter #1
W245's battery is inside the cabin and there is no access of the battery's positive terminal inside the engine bay (even jump starting is directly onto the battery as per user manual). Does anyone has experience running a wire from the battery to the engine bay? Or can anyone who has access to WIS shed some light on this?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
 

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2006 B 200 .....& Audi A6..
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I have not added any wires. You would have to open up and examine the battery box and follow the existing wire harness and ty-rap another wire along the exiting bundle making sure that there is no chance of chaffing or pinching of this added wire.

There is very little room to work under the B and everything seems just out of reach.

When running a wire under the carpeting, there is always the chance of pinching or chaffing as time goes on.

What gauge of wire are you planning to run?....and for what purpose?

Derek
 

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I have checked the battery box but I didn't see where/how I can run a wire to the engine bay. However, I didn't lift the carpet. I plan to install HID kit and I know I can use the H7 harness to power the ballast. I prefer to use a relay and draw the power from the battery directly just to be on the safe side.
 

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Coupla' thoughts.

First, HID's draw less current than the stock bulbs, so that seems a bit like overkill.

Also, you have an excellent 12V+ source under the hood, the alternator output. Just be sure to use an inline fuse RIGHT AT the alternator and then if it shorts it will just blow the fuse.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do I have to splice any wire if I take the power from alternator's output?

Coupla' thoughts.

First, HID's draw less current than the stock bulbs, so that seems a bit like overkill.

Also, you have an excellent 12V+ source under the hood, the alternator output. Just be sure to use an inline fuse RIGHT AT the alternator and then if it shorts it will just blow the fuse.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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Thanks for the help Greg.......but did you ever look at where the B class alternator is? :eek:

Using the existing wiring at the headlights will work fine. The wattage on the HID's drops to 35 from the 55watts now being drawn.

Don't do the overkill...........just "plug and play."

Derek
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Derek, you have it installed using the existing harness? Would the initial spike of the current be a concern?

Thanks for the help Greg.......but did you ever look at where the B class alternator is? :eek:

Using the existing wiring at the headlights will work fine. The wattage on the HID's drops to 35 from the 55watts now being drawn.

Don't do the overkill...........just "plug and play."

Derek
 

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Using the existing wiring at the headlights will work fine. The wattage on the HID's drops to 35 from the 55watts now being drawn.

Don't do the overkill...........just "plug and play."

Derek

Very Very Good advise indeed :thumbsup:

Extra wiring and extra relays make a job more difficult than it should be, as well as providing more possible troubles in the future. The kits are designed to use original wiring and the last thing you have to worry about is a voltage spike.

One other thing to consider. I imagine you plan to use the present headlight switch to power up the relay to supply current to the lights, but the computer will see no current to the headlights and will activate warnings on your dash.

Remember always K.I.S.S.

Bill
 

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..... but the computer will see no current to the headlights and will activate warnings on your dash.

Remember always K.I.S.S.

Bill
I don't have the HID's installed.... but I'm interested if I could have the fogs as the DLR's(like my Audi).

From what I remember, Anthony has had no problems from what he posted and he didn't mention any warnings coming up on his dash.

Derek :eclipsee_steering:
 

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You would only get dash warnings if you have the "exterior sight and light package" which I am glad I don't have!
 

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I don't have the HID's installed.... but I'm interested if I could have the fogs as the DLR's(like my Audi).

From what I remember, Anthony has had no problems from what he posted and he didn't mention any warnings coming up on his dash.

Derek :eclipsee_steering:
I think I remember that Anthony used original wiring and the kit would have included the extra resistor to make the load the 55 watts the computer wants to see. If the load is below a certain point the car computer sees it as a burned out or defective bulb and thus the warning and shuts down power to the circuit. Surprised that all the cars do not work this way. Glad I have the option that shows if a brake light fails while driving.

Bill
 

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Hey Everyone,

Sorry I was in "La Belle Province" over the weekend for UFC and couldn't reply. My HID setup is just spliced into the OE harness. I'm not worried about a voltage spike through the switch since the lights come on without using the switch so , correct me if I'm wrong, it shouldn't harm the switch. I do have a 35W kit with a resistor, there are 55W kits available (which would need no resistors) but I'm not sure the difference in bulb life over the 35W and if there is even more voltage through the system.

Anthony
 

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Discussion Starter #13
35W HID kit + resistor (20W) should be ok after the startup spike. Many aftermarket HID kit has a startup spike of 5A and up. Say 5A x 12V = 60W. 60W + the 20W resistor = 80W load on the OE harness for seconds(?) until it settles down. Will it be ok? It may be better if setting the xenon=PRESENT to reduce the use of the resistors works.

Anthony, in another thread you mentioned you are not satisfied with the beam pattern and it does not throw as much light as OEM bi-xenon. Is it still worth to spent the money and time to install aftermarket kit if I am after the brightness not colour?

I am disappointed that Philips X-treme Power halogen bulb (claimed to has 80% more light) does not throw much more light than OEM halogen bulb.

Too bad that there is no H7 HIR bulb..... :(
 

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Anthony, in another thread you mentioned you are not satisfied with the beam pattern and it does not throw as much light as OEM bi-xenon. Is it still worth to spent the money and time to install aftermarket kit if I am after the brightness not colour?
Hey aibo,

IMHO, yes it is worth it. It does give more light output, but it is just greater distance and more ditch (side) lighting than the factory halogens. However I find it doesn't throw the same amout of light on the road (right in front of the car) as factory HIDs. It throws more than the halogens but not factory HIDs. I hope that helps.

Anthony
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Anthony,

That helps. I am thinking of getting a MTEC kit (they claim 100% MB compatible, no resistor, no capacity and no EUC changes) or a Xenondepot Extreme with Philips bulbs. Both kits have many good reviews. Tough choice... I think Xenondepot's Philips bulbs will last longer and throw a little more light.

Aibo

Hey aibo,

IMHO, yes it is worth it. It does give more light output, but it is just greater distance and more ditch (side) lighting than the factory halogens. However I find it doesn't throw the same amout of light on the road (right in front of the car) as factory HIDs. It throws more than the halogens but not factory HIDs. I hope that helps.

Anthony
 
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