This weekend I decided to install a JL Audio 1000/1 Amp and Directed Audio 1.2 Farad Cap in the 2000 ML320. This is simply an account of what I did for posterity.
First things first…I installed 4 Gauge Power Line from the battery to the rear of the truck. I used platinum plated connectors on each end for better conductivity. My wire of choice was Tsunami Oxygen-Free line cut to size. This was not done from a kit. I used a Rockford Fostgate ANL Fuse Block permanently mounted on the fender well where my Air Box used to be (I previously installed a Cold Air Intake). I pulled the front driver’s seat and wired an IEC AULOC directly into the subwoofer connector at the subwoofer. The wires and connections are listed below:
IEC AULOC:
1. White
2. White/Black
3. Grey
4. Grey/Black
5. Brown x 2
Subwoofer Input:
1. Green
2. White
3. Blue
4. Grey
5. Do not connect.
While the driver’s seat was out of the truck, I ran the component cable to the rear for subwoofer input from source. I double-side taped the IEC AULOC to the subwoofer housing under the driver’s seat and only tapped the input lines so that I may still have used of the original subwoofer system with passengers in the truck.
Next I removed the middle console and ran a remote lead from the passenger foot well power supply to a switch inside the console itself to power the amp on and off manually. I then ran another lead from the console to the amp (to complete the circuit).
I mounted the Amp on the back of the rear seat for good ventilation and because it was too large to mount on the sub floor. To the right of the amp I mounted the Directed Audio Capacitor and wired the power line directly to it. I then wired another lead from the positive terminal to the amp itself. I wired a 4 Gauge ground line from the Amp and from the Capacitor separately to the floor of the truck. To get a solid ground, I sanded the paint off the floor and bolted it directly with Grade 8 bolts. I then put waterproofing on the stud and bolt.
I connected the remote lead, positive and negative, and lastly the speaker connections to the amp. I used 10 Gauge negative and positive cabling to connect the JL W7’s in my custom box to the amplifier.
I must say…WAY more sound than I wanted. But with the EQ turned all the way down and input sensitivity set very low…the sound is amazing.
I plan on taking pics, as I didn’t get time during the install. With all work involved (not counting the custom box) I have 2 hours in this project.
First things first…I installed 4 Gauge Power Line from the battery to the rear of the truck. I used platinum plated connectors on each end for better conductivity. My wire of choice was Tsunami Oxygen-Free line cut to size. This was not done from a kit. I used a Rockford Fostgate ANL Fuse Block permanently mounted on the fender well where my Air Box used to be (I previously installed a Cold Air Intake). I pulled the front driver’s seat and wired an IEC AULOC directly into the subwoofer connector at the subwoofer. The wires and connections are listed below:
IEC AULOC:
1. White
2. White/Black
3. Grey
4. Grey/Black
5. Brown x 2
Subwoofer Input:
1. Green
2. White
3. Blue
4. Grey
5. Do not connect.
While the driver’s seat was out of the truck, I ran the component cable to the rear for subwoofer input from source. I double-side taped the IEC AULOC to the subwoofer housing under the driver’s seat and only tapped the input lines so that I may still have used of the original subwoofer system with passengers in the truck.
Next I removed the middle console and ran a remote lead from the passenger foot well power supply to a switch inside the console itself to power the amp on and off manually. I then ran another lead from the console to the amp (to complete the circuit).
I mounted the Amp on the back of the rear seat for good ventilation and because it was too large to mount on the sub floor. To the right of the amp I mounted the Directed Audio Capacitor and wired the power line directly to it. I then wired another lead from the positive terminal to the amp itself. I wired a 4 Gauge ground line from the Amp and from the Capacitor separately to the floor of the truck. To get a solid ground, I sanded the paint off the floor and bolted it directly with Grade 8 bolts. I then put waterproofing on the stud and bolt.
I connected the remote lead, positive and negative, and lastly the speaker connections to the amp. I used 10 Gauge negative and positive cabling to connect the JL W7’s in my custom box to the amplifier.
I must say…WAY more sound than I wanted. But with the EQ turned all the way down and input sensitivity set very low…the sound is amazing.
I plan on taking pics, as I didn’t get time during the install. With all work involved (not counting the custom box) I have 2 hours in this project.
