[MAVA]

Okay Gents,

My Turn, Minding my own business on this 60 Degree Dry day. Went to the junk yard eight miles away. Filled up the tank with premium fuel. Driving back home on long flat road, and at the traffic light intersection while waiting for the green light. The car just turns off, and will not start... Right before it turned off it shakes a little bit, and the ASR light flickered on. That was all she said? No start, or the possibility sensation that the engine wants to start?

It happened a few hours ago, and now it kinda wants to start, but will not stay on. No coughing of any kind.

I do not get the "Start Error" message, so it is not DAS

Once it cools a little more I will probe around. I will check the fuses in the trunk, engine, and computer module. My diagnostics computer is charging, so I can test, and possibly pull some codes.

I will push on the shrader valve for fuel pressure on the fuel rail.

I guess I will get a LED and a small resistor to watch the injector pulse.

I had a similar problem with my E320 a handful of years back with the CPS, but in that case, once the car cooled it worked fine, and when it got hot from city driving it would quit 20 to 30min later. Could it be the CPS?

I hope it is not the throttle body? I have one at my other house to a 97 S420? would it work for my car?

Any insight greatly appreciated .

Thank you,

Martin

PS.. One more thing to note: I have this little open ended wrench symbol with 2200 on the display before I attempt to start. I do not have my manual with me, but what is that?

 

[JLCampbell]

With what you stated, my first guess would be fuel pump or fuel pressure. When you try to start it, does it sound like it wants to fire up but will not catch? or is it just straight cranking with no spark?

 

[MAVA]

yea...

Yea, like it want to start.... I hope it is the fuel pump.. I'll go play with it in few minutes.

Played with the car..Well, no pressure coming from the shrader valve in front of the fuel rail, and the fuse is good. The fuel filter is a few years old, so the old pump quit... Off to the junk yard for now, as I need some wheels fast.. My other wheels are 700miles away...:frown

Martin

 

[Merc-S600]

Embarrassing situations when a w140 quits at lights leaving you stranded there & then ,I know how you must have felt then Martin.
My guess is either clogged fuel filter ,fuel pump faulty ,coils ,fuel pressure regulator .
Hope you find the problem without great difficulty .:tumbsup:

 

[Joe-V12]

Good luck Martin. Fingers crossed it's just a fuel pump.

 

[MAVA]

Missed the junk yard...:frown they closed too early...:frown

I'm so glad I did my errands and mailed my packages yesterday for people...I will have a fuel pump mailed from my home to where I am at...


I will just hitch a ride to work for a few days...

It was a silly moment at the light(you know the Deer and Headlights moment) .. I hope it is the pump...I will know in a few days..

Martin

 

[TankNoir]

Okay Gents,

PS.. One more thing to note: I have this little open ended wrench symbol with 2200 on the display before I attempt to start. I do not have my manual with me, but what is that?

Hey Martin,

There are three possibilities for your wrench code: The first is that it is 2200 days past it's service date. Second is that it could be a speed sensor error code, third, it could be a code for the transmission being in limp mode but being the transmission expert that you are I would assume you would know that already.

Hope that helps or maybe someone else can chime in and direct you to the exact reason for the code. Let's help out Mava people, he's always here for others on this forum. :thumbsup:

 

[Thom_7]

The wrench is the Mercedes Flexible Service System (FSS).

Has that wrench always been there or did it just turn on? If the wrench has always been there, the numbers should have been progressively going up, as the computer counts up the days from when it thinks it should have been last serviced. If it's at 2200 then it thinks 2200 days have gone by.

If it just appeared with the 2200, then it's likely a code. According to what I was able to Google, an FSS fault code of 2200 signifies a transmission issue. I could be wrong about that though.

 

[Joe-V12]

 

[MAVA]

Thank you Tank!! Thank you for caring. I will find out in a few days. I will hitch hike it for a few days while I get the pump. I'm having a throttle body sent and MAS sent too.. I keep spares for the what if moments in life...

I think it is a service message. I have no clue what that means because it has been like that for months with the wrench.

If it were in limp(any limp mode-even the second degree-the car would start, and idle fine) mode, the car would run and start...I get Nada-nothing....The shrader has nothing after cranking, or cycling the key. No fuel squirts out... I hope it is the fuel pump, and not the computer took a dump....

The car has been running fine. It has a new circular connector on the transmission, and it is 8k miles old.. Conductor plate failure I would be in limp mode, but the car would start, and idle fine repeatedly...

I hope it is the pump.......

Martin

Joe,

thank you for the clarification....glad it is just a service reminder...

Martin

 

[MAVA]

Okay,

Here is what I am getting, and now that nightfall has come to where I am. I could not turn off the rear passenger side pillar lights? Very strange????? I had to disconnect one of the door pins-Go figure.....

Here is what I am gettting in the photo... it is a -2300...

Martin

 

[Joe-V12]

Does it flash? If the service date is exceeded it will flash for a bit.

I'm sure yours is serviced. See if you can just reset the thing.

 

[nhzruthless818]

The wrench is nothing to worry about that is to remind to change your oil every 10,000miles it will not effect drivability. As for the stalling you said asr light that to me sounds like a throttle body. It could be an extremely dirty throttle body valve. But check all the fuel and ignition releated parts too. A few important factors to consider: when where plugs changed, fuel filter every been replaced, air filter ever replaced. Does the starter actually crank? I had a issue once when the car would not restart until the next day no matter what i would do mine cranked but the fpr had a leak that would expand with heat and that stupid part did not leak until it was really hot.

 

[Deplore]

If it were in limp(any limp mode-even the second degree-the car would start, and idle fine) mode, the car would run and start...I get Nada-nothing....The shrader has nothing after cranking, or cycling the key. No fuel squirts out... I hope it is the fuel pump, and not the computer took a dump....

If it is indeed the computer, then there is a simple test you can do to verify that.

If the car has a OBD II connector, just plug in your regular scanner and try to poll the sensor data -- like MAF, or O2 sensors, or the MAP sensor. If you can get those information with key in pos. 2, then computer is fine.

More than likely it's the FP.

 

[MAVA]

Thank you all,

I will play with the car tomorrow. it is raining, and I just do not be out there when it is raining... I will wait for the fuel pump to arrive...

Martin

 

[MAVA]

Another one these questions can it be this fuel pump relay?

Genuine Mercedes 0015428319 Fuel Pump Relay

Is this back over in the rear passenger quarter panel?

MArtin

 

[nhzruthless818]

Relay is located on the fuse box in the trunk. You have to take the trunk panel out to access it.

 

[shimshon]

First of all the wrench and associated number has nothing to do with start or driveability. It is part of the Flexible Service System (FSS). The number has nothing to do with time it is MILEAGE counting down from 10,000 miles until it goes negative. Meaning it has been reset 12300 miles ago.

To isolate if it is fuel or ignition issue you could try some starter fluid or fuel directly into the throttle body opening if it starts and then stalls out it is a fuel related issue and you can go from there e.g. fuel pump relay, fuel pump etc.

Seth

 

[Krician]

To "test" or "wake" the fuel pump, you will need 1 extra person. Get on the floor facing up at the rear passenger side of the car. reach under (may want to use a jack and jack stand if you cant reach or fit) at the plastic fuel pump and filters box. Tell the extra person to crank and then you give some blows with your fist at the fuel pump area. If it sputters/ starts, fuel pump. My shop does this all the time if a customer breaks down less than a mile away and they don't want a tow truck..

 

[nhzruthless818]

To "test" or "wake" the fuel pump, you will need 1 extra person. Get on the floor facing up at the rear passenger side of the car. reach under (may want to use a jack and jack stand if you cant reach or fit) at the plastic fuel pump and filters box. Tell the extra person to crank and then you give some blows with your fist at the fuel pump area. If it sputters/ starts, fuel pump. My shop does this all the time if a customer breaks down less than a mile away and they don't want a tow truck..

That is a great way to test any electrical motor. For example the starter starter. But i have seen completely dead pumps that wont work after a few hits with a mallet.