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Discussion Starter #1
I lowered my car using EIBACH springs, its been about 45 days and around 2000 miles. The rear of my car is lower than the front of my car, or at least there is more gap in the front. Can anyone suggest how I can even this out? I would appreciate any comments about this.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
The guy who installed them suggested I wait until around 5000 miles to let them settle before I do

anything, is this correct? Would it even out by itself? I am getting a feeling they probably won't. I thought about changing the spring pads, but should I wait like this guy suggested? Any comments would be appreciated.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
It is normal for the rear gap to be lower than the front. The front fenders are bigger.

The reason that the front fenders are bigger is because the front wheels need to be able to turn, and thus have more room.<br> <br> Now, if the rear of the car is actually lower (height, not gap) than the front of the car, then you have a problem. Eibach springs do at times have quality issues, which you may be experiencing firsthand. Then again, it may just be the gap. Take some measurements, and let us know.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Springs typically settle by 500 miles of driving.

Shoot me an email, I'd be happy to help you resolve this.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
That's a first with Eibach. The normal drop is usually lower

in the front. In any case, change the front pads. You might have the thickest (21 mm) pad in front. The thinnest is 5mm.<br> <br> 210 321 0184 5mm<br> 210 321 0284 9mm<br> 210 321 0384 13mm<br> 210 321 0484 17mm<br> 210 321 0585 21mm
 
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Discussion Starter #7
clkTOMMY....change the rear pads to get rid of those [email protected] un-even fender gap !! what even..........

<br> make it look worse it when you have two people seat in the back.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Re: clkTOMMY....change the rear pads to get rid of those [email protected] un-even fender gap !! what even.....

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, they are highly appreciated. I'm curious Linh, do you mean I should change the rear pads to increase the rear fender gap rather than changing the front pads to decrease the gap? I think I would rather change the fronts to lower the front a little more to match. Also, after reading everyone's suggestions, I believe that its more of a fender gap thing than a difference in actual height. As Mach mentioned, perhaps it only appears that way because the front fender is larger. Do most of you just change the pads to even it out, is that what I should do or should I just leave it alone with the differing fender gaps. Again, I really do appreciate everyone taking to time out to respond.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
clkTommy..... so you didn't change the front pads to the lowest yet !! Why did you put in ..........

<br> the lowest pads when you change the spring. I though that you did that is why i said to change the rear to a thicker pads so it would even out the fender gap better. But in your case you need to change the front pad to a lower pads. All of the 8 Mercedes car (slk, 3 clk 430 and 4 clk 320) that i installed spring all used one side thicker rear pads then the front except for Mach430 car. He wanted 1/1 pads. Ernee, i change his pads front pads to a 1, so his set up is 1/3 with factory spring and shock. Two of my friend car with Eibach spring now want to change the rear pads to 3 (set up is 1/3) now because for some reason Eibach spring just lower the rear more after it broke-in.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Re: clkTommy..... so you didn't change the front pads to the lowest yet !! Why did you put in .....

I had a 2/1 ratio to match my stock 4/3 ratio. Changing the ratio will change the suspension geometry of the car.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
You actually believe that huh? A 4mm or 8mm diference is infinitesimal compared to the

weight distribution and center of gravity of the car for 'normal' use.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Not only to I believe it, but I know for a fact that it's true

You're welcome to do whatever you want with your car, but we would never advise coming up with a new spring pad ratio.<br> <br> If we didn't believe it, we would be crashing our race cars constantly... Creating your own angle for the car WILL affect the weight distribution of the car. Now I know your arguement will be that, these aren't race cars that we are talking about here. But the proof is in the pudding, it's bad for any car to screw up its suspension geometry. Why not put CLK55 springs on a 320 then? The difference will be a few mm. <br> <br> BTW, spring pad sizes are each 5mm apart. Feel free to disagree. But since a cetain few here think that I only post to make commissions, where is my commission in not changing spring pads? Also, it costs more to get 1/3 then 2/1 or 1/1.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Like I said...for "normal use," it's negligible; regardless of 4mm or 5mm...it's negl....

street use. And what's this about costing more? $7 each pad. I have a whole stack of front and rear pads here at home...you want some? They're free...or do you want part numbers?<br> <br> Why then did my MB/AMG Tech here in Sacramento said that it's ok to go 1/1 on a CLK430...in fact, he suggests that I use the lowest pads.<br> <br> Is this another one of your theories that you should keep the 'factory' ratio? If you're already changing the factory suspension, why would you bother keeping the factory ratio? The factory ratio is suited for the FACTORY SUSPENSION SETUP. <br> <br> Are you telling me that that 'your' race cars, with their cup kits, etc. etc. use 'factory ratio' pads, shims, or spring hats?<br> <br> Think about that a little bit...<br> <br> <br> :) <br>
 
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Discussion Starter #15
You just don't get it, do you?

The bottom line is that it isn't right. If you start with an even pad size, keep it that way (3/3 go to 2/2 or 1/1). If you start with one step higher, keep it that way.<br> <br> Obviously, a CLK isn't a race car, but it should be still done properly. And if you go from a 4/3 ratio to a 1/3 ratio, you are taking 15mm (5mm X 3 sizes) off the front. That's over half an inch, which is important when considering your suspension geometry.<br> <br> As for your MB Techician, that's the first MB technician that I have ever heard of recommending anything other than stock. Most MB dealers/technicians/etc will not provide any advice, or help you if you create a problem using aftermarket parts.<br> <br> This is not a theory, these are facts. You are free to do whatever you want. I'm simply making the truth known. Let each individual decide what's best for them.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I think I get it, do you think you do? Like I said, Ben...

Would you keep your 'factory spring pad ratio' if you put an aftermarket suspension? <br> <br> If you want a more aggressive cornering characteristic, wouldn't you want to shift your center of gravity to the front and have more negative front camber and toe?<br> <br> Why would you lower your car with aftermarket components and keep the factory ratio? Do you want the 'suspension geometry?' Won't it be different with the different spring constant? Different elasticity constant of the dampeners? So why maintain the factory ratio? <br> <br> Anyway, I'm not sure what most of the other people think but being an engineer, I'm just thinking of the bare facts and logic deduction. If you can explain your argument to me with real data, I'd believe you and say I'm wrong - I ain't too proud to say I'm wrong. <br> <br> But if all you've got to say is 'you should keep your suspension geometry because you should,' then I'm not even sure if you know what you're talking about. <br> <br> MAYBE you read that off of the Kleemann suspension brochure??????? <br> <br> :)<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br>
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Re: I think I get it, do you think you do? Like I said, Ben...

I've got a better idea. Go ahead and do it your way :) I am through with having to argue with Linh and you, in order to prevent some from potential mistakes. Granted, the suspension geometry is not as crucial in a street car as it is in a race car, but the bottom line is that one should apply the same philosphies towards a street car. Again, you don't have to. It is YOUR car.<br> <br> As for your Kleemann comment. Kleemann is just one of the many products we carry. That one time I posted exactly what was written off the Kleemann brochure because that was the best way to describe it. I have done far more than just read the brochure. I have met with Kleemann USA numerous times, rode in various Kleemann cars, and have their suspension and supercharger installed on my car.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
OK. I'm through with you begging the question. Good luck with your suspension geometry and

factory ratio.<br> <br> lol
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Mach430.....you are just something else ...dude!! Let me see here...................................

<br> you still using H&R spring and change your shock to Kleemann shock (so call sensing [email protected]$ck you called it) and now you claim that you have Kleemann suspension just by installed the Kleeman shock with H&R spring.!!!! This is an exact example about everything you said so far. DUDE !!! You don't call it Kleemann suspension until you buy the Kleemann spring and shock !!! You see how BOO SHIT your claim are !!! A cup suspension is not a kit until they tune the spring to match the shock for it to work together !!! And you just can't buy one part and put it together with another part with different brand and claim it a cup kit !!! Fact from you? Where ? prove it !! Fact from you is like 'hear say'!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #20
BTW, i still remember when you had Koni shock and H&R spring !! You claimed that your..........

<br> suspension is the best. Can out handle the Clk 55 and your Koni shock is better then Bilstein shock. Oh Yeah !!! What the F#$ck happen? It blew up after a couple thousand miles, right? And so now Kleeman shock is the best!!! Just one more question. What about next week or month? Which shock is the best...lol....lol?
 
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