[esde]

So I've been hunting through your archives looking for answers and have found a great bunch.... so here's what I'm up against. I bought a 71 416, the cab isn't origional, neither is the bed, or engine. I got it cause it was close, the cab has little rust, and the engine has low hours. The cab is interesting, it's got a passenger side roof hatch, I've only seen those on 404 firetrucks. I've been slowly sorting out basic upkeep items to get it safe. I've done all new brake lines, hard and rubber, clutch and brake masters, fluids and filters. The thruck sat for two years with the clutch slave stuck out, I swapped in a new slave to get it on the trailer. Everything was fine at first, but the clutch has gotten 'slower'. If I release the pedal, there is a few second delay before the disc grabs, it got progressively worse over the course of two weeks. I did grease the throwouty shaft. Is it possible that the pressure plate was damaged from sitting engaged for so long? I'm leaving a few pics, you'll see the progress over the next few months, nothing like Vons' this will be a work truck. Please don't say anything about the color, I know....

 

[VON]

Man, That looks great! almost too good to be a work truck![] Would hate to get it dirty! Boy that trailer looks a tad skimpy though with that big Mog sitting on it![:0] What is that thing rated for? Hope you didn't have to go far! Von

 

[esde]

My friend coined it as a very big elephant standing on a vary small ball. We were right at the limits of the trailer rating and the f550 cgvwr. A three hour tow straight up 95, every car on the road slowed down to gawk.

 

[Mogasaurus]

Sounds like your clutch hydralics need bleeding some more. I can't tell if there's a PTO sticking out the front - is it a double or single clutch unit ?? Double clutch units are a bit picky about adjustment.

That hatch is common on military 416's - I forget exactly which country had that option but there were a lot of them around.

Looks damn good !

 

[esde]

Here's the weird thing, I couldn't tell if the problem was the clutch itself or the hydraulics... so I started by pulling the rubber shifter cover. I stuck a small box wrench on the clutch slave bleeder and took it out for a drive. My thinking is that if I push in the clutch, then release it by opening the bleeder, I will be able to isolate clutch problems from hydraulic problems. The end result is that the clutch release arm is still slow to return to its engaged state. Also, no pto, yet. I turned the engine over with a wrench and soaked the pressure plate pivots with penetrating oil {conservatively} and it's made a slight improvement. Seems that I may be doing a clutch, what else should I replace while I'm in there? Engine or trans seals? Oil pan gasket? Thanks, Seth

 

[esde]

Here's the weird thing, I couldn't tell if the problem was the clutch itself or the hydraulics... so I started by pulling the rubber shifter cover. I stuck a small box wrench on the clutch slave bleeder and took it out for a drive. My thinking is that if I push in the clutch, then release it by opening the bleeder, I will be able to isolate clutch problems from hydraulic problems. The end result is that the clutch release arm is still slow to return to its engaged state. Also, no pto, yet. I turned the engine over with a wrench and soaked the pressure plate pivots with penetrating oil {conservatively} and it's made a slight improvement. Seems that I may be doing a clutch, what else should I replace while I'm in there? Engine or trans seals? Oil pan gasket? Thanks, Seth

 

[esde]

so, after alot of bleeding and adjusting, I've decided that the pressure plate in my 416 has given up. Scott at Exped Imports has new stuff on the way, and I'm trying to decide whats not too much to undertake while the cab is off. I intend to sandblast the underside, paint with epoxy primer, and maybe rinoline. I've heard so-so about it as under coat.
While the cab is off, I'll be cleaning aand installing my new hydraulics, watch for pics...

 

[EuroTruck]

Seth,

Did you rebuild or replace the clutch master cylinder? I read where you replaced the slave cylinder. The master can cause the symptom you describe if it is slow to disengage.

Edit: never mind, I see you released the hydraulic pressure from the system and it is still slow to engage the clutch.

Have fun,

-Sean Philyaw

 

[esde]

So, finally the cab is off. I have yet to get the engine out. My engine hoist isn't tall enough, unless maybe if I let alot of air out of the tires... So I have to find somewhere to prop the cab, freeing the chainfall to pull the engine. The cab underside is better than I thought, the strange rubber undercoat has only started to peel at the corners, and nothing is rusted through. After I get the clutch out, I'll start cleaning and painting the frame and axles. I like the look of Vons' and Andrews' projects, but I can't go that hog wild. Clean with fresh paint and new hoses will have to do. Sadly, no powdercoat. I am contemplating sandblasting the cab under and inside, and then coating with poly bedliner. Does anyone have experience spraying it? I think you are supposed to use an undercoat gun, about $40 sound right? And is the windshield terribly difficult to replace if I pull it to replace the rubber? I'll post as I go and keep up to date with pics. Thanks, Seth

 

[esde]

Finally got to pulling the engine last night, and the cause of my clutch problems was... a bad throwout bearing. Seems that the bearing siezed and dug some deep grooves in the pressure plate. The friction between them didn't allow the Release arm to travel freely. The strange part is that it didn't sound funny, not that you can hear much over the 352 at idle. I'm hoping that it's not too bad to be rebuilt, as a new pressure plate is $$$. Seth

 

[esde]

I hope that this is the final piece of my clutch replacement saga, and hope that this can save someone trouble down the road. Turns out that the shaft that the clutch release bearing slides on was damaged by the bearing failure. The damage wasn't obvious as the slot for the retainer bolt is on the underside, and not easily visible unless your on your back under the truck. I discovered it when the bearing housing would not slide easily, and I removed it to file down what I suspected would be a small burr.... Check this part when you do a clutch, the bolt is hardened and the shaft is cast so the slot will wear before the bolt. Now, I've posted a want ad on the exchange, but does anyone here have a parts trans that they could pillage for me? I've got to get this back together and out of my shop. I've considered sleeving it but don't have faith that the repair would be as strong. Thanks

 

[esde]

Finally, just starting to look like something. I was afraid of a mog clutch swap, not because of the difficulty, but the temptation of "while I'm in there" syndrome. So, a clutch apparently also requires that you repaint the cab, in and out, new upholstry and carpet, and clean and paint the frame. All that's left is the custom 3 way tip/ slide bed that I'm working on, and new tires. One of the 14.5 Pirrelli cinturato tires is pretty worn, and I don't expect to find a replacement. I'm considering military takeoff Michelin XLs as I can five of them delivered for about $700, but I'm still looking. Any suggections? Seth

 

[esde]

[No message]

 

[Andrew]

Esde,

Congratulations, your Mog is looking real good, you are right, while you there why not do this and that! But hell what’s the price of personal satisfaction, is really moving to see good Mogers make the effort and bring the old trucks to a new lease of life, frankly I have to admit there is no other group of vehicle enthusiasts like Mogers, hard work and knowledgeable, Mogs are complicated and no know how around the corner, once again congratulations.

Happy Moging

 

[esde]

Saturday was the day I finally pulled the 416 out of the shop. I still have the bed sides to repaint, and the permanent patch for the back of the cab where the door had been cut in, and, and, and... The good thing is that I drove it all weekend with no catastophic failures. I seem to have two weeping wheel cylinders, and one wheel that is emitting a faint occassional squeak. I fabbed a new rear bumper to house the factory lights, and got rid of the jerry can holders, now departuer angle is where I like it. I should probably remount some madflaps before I score a ticket... While I'm thinking of it I have a drivers side under bed toolbox that is free to anyone that wants to pay shipping, no door, but it's in ok shape. I'm also trying out some self adhesive foam soundproofing, and I'll post how it holds up in a few weeks. Seth