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Discussion Starter #1
I did it, bought another W210. Garage kept in as good condition as you could find. Now comes the issues. I know almost nothing about SLS. The suspension is extra bouncy the rear struts have been replaced with used OE struts by the previous owner, no change. My guess from all my research is the nitrogen balls need to be replaced. But that is not my question. I am looking at the car and the rear seems to sit lower than the front and I can't tell if that is how it is supposed to sit or not. Looks to me like the front is almost overextended. Wondering if anyone has any advice as what to check.




[url=https://flic.kr/p/2h7ZSDM]
 

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Slightly off topic, but as I was going through your flicker pictures, it went to your gallery and your valve body rebuild, then bunch of other random odds and ends relating to brakes, calipers, etc....

....what caught my notice is your OM606. You have an air bubble in the inlet line to the pre-filter....just like me!

Did you manage to solve that one? This is bugging meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Regarding your height....

Could be a sticky SLS level valve, check under the car, look at the rear sway bar. There should be a contraption there. Either the valve is covered with hydraulic fluid, or there's air bubbles in the lines. If you have ramps (strong ones!) put the rear on ramps, disconnect linkage and watch the car lower itself, then raise it up and make it go up again....do it a few times until the air bubbles cycle out, and then relink.

Totally would not recommend this without super super strong ramps! And chokes. And couple rims under the car.
 

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I am looking at the car and the rear seems to sit lower than the front and I can't tell if that is how it is supposed to sit or not. Looks to me like the front is almost overextended. Wondering if anyone has any advice as what to check.



[url=https://flic.kr/p/2h7ZSDM]
Looks kind of normal to me from your pictures. Measure the distant from the ground to the bottom of the fender at the wheel center.

Mine is about 27 1/4" to 27 1/2" at all four corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Slightly off topic, but as I was going through your flicker pictures, it went to your gallery and your valve body rebuild, then bunch of other random odds and ends relating to brakes, calipers, etc....

....what caught my notice is your OM606. You have an air bubble in the inlet line to the pre-filter....just like me!

Did you manage to solve that one? This is bugging meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Regarding your height....

Could be a sticky SLS level valve, check under the car, look at the rear sway bar. There should be a contraption there. Either the valve is covered with hydraulic fluid, or there's air bubbles in the lines. If you have ramps (strong ones!) put the rear on ramps, disconnect linkage and watch the car lower itself, then raise it up and make it go up again....do it a few times until the air bubbles cycle out, and then relink.

Totally would not recommend this without super super strong ramps! And chokes. And couple rims under the car.

All good. That damn air bubble. I tried solving that so many different ways but never got down to getting it out. I replaced all of the fuel lines twice, tried undoing the top banjo bolt and letting the air bleed out while it was running, taking a pressure brake bleeder and sucking the air out from the return line, replacing all of the return line hoses (on the injectors), changed the SOV o-ring, changed SOV internal o-rings, changed o-rings on the injection pump that lead to the injectors. Absolutely no difference. I'm convinced that it has be wear inside the pump or the pump is sucking in air. The pumps contain rubber components the shaft that drives the injectors has an oring in the front of the pump and the rear of the pump has a seal that goes all the way around the perimeter of the rear, I'm not sure if they are fuel related but they are very difficult to get to with it on the car. There also has to be some kind of seal between the oil that flows through the bottom of the pump and the fuel going into the top. Another option is a leak in the fuel lines or the prefilter o-ring in the tank (never got around to changing that). The thing that drove me to do it was an intermittent studder for the first few seconds of startup, never caused any issues but always wondered if it was air bubble related.

Is it causing issues for you?

Also why strong ramps? the car will sag but there is a limited range of motion, no?
 

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No, not causing issues, but seeing that air bubble just pisses me off to no end. I've done everything you listed and more (except the pump seal itself) and I've also done the in tank fuel filter screen too. Nada. But car runs well, no issues, so....

Strong ramps, mostly because when you start to play with the SLS valve, the whole car will come down to bump stops, and it will basically bottom out. I doubt you want hot exhaust on yourself (engine has to be running) and the act of raising the suspension puts some stress on the ramps. They can handle static loads, but shifting loads is another question. Plus well, you're going to be under a 4000lb car that's actively moving up and down. Don't you want something stronger to ensure that its not going to pancake you.
 

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Congratulations on a great looking wagon. Your vehicle height looks ok from the pictures, but to check the suspension control module use AR32.30-P-0520A (a search will find that document). To change the accumulations search for AR32.30-P-0620A.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No, not causing issues, but seeing that air bubble just pisses me off to no end. I've done everything you listed and more (except the pump seal itself) and I've also done the in tank fuel filter screen too. Nada. But car runs well, no issues, so....

Strong ramps, mostly because when you start to play with the SLS valve, the whole car will come down to bump stops, and it will basically bottom out. I doubt you want hot exhaust on yourself (engine has to be running) and the act of raising the suspension puts some stress on the ramps. They can handle static loads, but shifting loads is another question. Plus well, you're going to be under a 4000lb car that's actively moving up and down. Don't you want something stronger to ensure that its not going to pancake you.
I'm out of ideas. The only thing it can be is either there is a min amount of air that the pump is unable to autobleed out or there is a leak somewhere. It is possible that the air bubbles work through the system and hang out in the return lines of the injectors when you turn the car off they float to the top of the filter housing and show themselves.

Agreed don't want to be a pancake.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Congratulations on a great looking wagon. Your vehicle height looks ok from the pictures, but to check the suspension control module use AR32.30-P-0520A (a search will find that document). To change the accumulations search for AR32.30-P-0620A.
Thanks!
 

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I'm not aware of any rebuild kits for the SLS valve or the transfer case. Just monitor it from time to time....and top off the transfer case oil just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not aware of any rebuild kits for the SLS valve or the transfer case. Just monitor it from time to time....and top off the transfer case oil just in case.
Do you know if there is a seal between the 2 halfs of the transfer case? Looks like getting it off is straight forward. Ideally I'd like to stop the leak if parts are going to be cheap.

Mercedes Source has one but they are for older models. Looks like there are several orings in the system that seal everything. Maybe I'll just get an o-ring kit and see if I have any luck.
 
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